QWK32

don't know TJ but my last name starts with "M" and my house mates starts with "W" and with both got ours today.

so true. now to go through the long list of things i want to buy to see what i'll get.

guess what i have im my bank account

same here. i just didn't let the reservior empty and i haven't had a problem.

looks like a series two engine, no ignitor box.

they just bleed through like normal, same as a car without ABS.

Hi Stuart, the RS4 just means its 4WD. the V on the end means its an auto, the RS4 S is the manual version. the only other major model differances of the C34 are, there is a Series 1 and Series 2 model, series 2 having the neo engine and different front end to the S1. and the Autech versions that have the RB26, avialable in the S1 and S2 models. i think you will find all the info you are after over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ussion-f82.html and if your specifically looking at the C34 models check this thred out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bu...n-C-t92065.html the one in the link looks good for a stock S2, but obviously you'd have to go and check it out in person to know for sure.

yeah, i'd think the +ve feed wires to the high beams would be able to take the higher wattage globes, its just running more amps through the switch that would bother me. i would install another relay that is switched by the high beam switches -ve feed, and have it switch a good ground to the globe. if you know what i mean. that way you dont have the increased current running throught the high beam switch.

looking at your diagram dave it looks like the relay i talk about, "H.I.D HEAD LAMP / HEAD LAMP" relay on the bottom right most side of the engine bay fuse box, labelled "Headlamp relay (Auto light)" on the diagram, only gives the high beam globes the +ve feed, the -ve feed appears to come from the light switch/stalk itself. its making sense now lol

i was out playing with the car to day and though i'd take a look at this, i'm a curious person. the parkers are fed from the "TAIL" circuit. with the headlights only turned on, two relay's turn on. the "H.I.D HEAD LAMP" one, standing in front of the car its on the left most side of the engine bay fuse box. and the "H.I.D HEAD LAMP / HEAD LAMP" relay on the bottom right most side. the one on the left most side does the headlights only. the one on the bottom right turns on with the headlights but supplies power to the high beams only. but it doesn't turn them on and off when the high beams are flashed, it must just supply power to the high beam switch which turns the lamps on and off. the two high beam fuses are, from the left, the 3rd (fuse #42 in you pic dave) and 4th (fuse #41 in your pic dave) ones in labeled HEAD L LH and HEAD L RH. if you pull the 3rd one along out and the bottom right relay looses its coil feed. i'm trying to get my head around it

the headlights are off a relay, the high beams appear not to be. i cant hear a relay clicking when i pull the high beams on. it wouldn't be that hard to wire in a relay if needed though.

hmmmm...... http://regmedia.co.uk/2005/02/28/tinfoil_car.jpg close?

dont know if this will help you but on some alternators, you can use a multimeter to find the charge light wire (your talking about the one for the dash light aren't you?). from memory it will have -ve polarity when the alternator isn't charging (car isn't running) and +ve once the alternator is charging.

lol. what do you mean by upgrade the lights dave, aren't you happy with how bright they are? or are you looking for that "Bluevision" look?

the yellow ones aren't R32 twin piston ones. the R32 rear twin piston calipers are the non-slide type.

not exactly true. they are all related, amps, volts, and watts. but in this case amps is the most variable of them. voltage being fixed (or close enough to fixed) and wattage also being fixed. Amps = Watts/Volts so for the standard 60w bulb, it is drawing 5amps on a 12v system. standard is a 10amp fuse or double the current being drawn by the bulb. if you stuck a 100w bulb in there it would draw up to 8-9amps (voltage fluctuation taken into account), i'd use a 20 amp fuse.

without getting into the topic of what is better, normal coppers vs iridiums. i wouldn't be worried that he only used normal ones, it wont stuff your engine up. a lot of people only run normal coppers. the only thing i would be worried about if i was you is the fact that you paid for iridiums and standard coppers were used! there is a fair bit of price difference between the two.

yeah, its a HB3 type bulb (also referred to as a 9005 type). the stock ones are 60w, Narva do 100w ones. you can also get the blue/white light style ones aswell

it wont be a problem running without the heatshields. there are plenty of people running aftermarket exhausts that dont have the shields fitted and don't have a problem. and like has already been said, get the bellmouth style dump pipe (like the one in your first link), it is well worth it. and just wait untill you get the pipe installed to see what your boost is doing. you should get a slight boost increase just by upgrading the dump pipe.

you cant block both of the lines. one is for the power steering. i've seen rb20's in other cars (vl's) that retain the r32 powersteering pump and what they did was get some fittings, or get a mobile hose fitter, to join the two output lines together to run the powersteering, all without a problem.

i didn't think it mattered in QLD if you had the stock airbox or not for rego, i bought my old R32 with a pod fitted and had no trouble with roadworthy or rego. if you do need one i have a stock airbox you can borrow. i'm southside brissy. pm me.

Look what i got in the mail today. I ended up ordering one indirvidually through RHDJapan as we found it was the cheapest seller and the group buy wasn't really worth it. i got it for $291, i just checked and they now have it for $299 (only a week after i placed my order!!). i'm really impressed with RHDJapan, i ordered it on the 23/03 and got it today, 30/03. they also kept me up to date by email on the order status and postal tracking numbers, i recommend them. i'll most probably be fitting it one afternoon this week when i get home from work, or on the weekend.

i dont know how well it will bolt up to mounting points, the bell housing pattern should be the same but you'd have to check the g/box to chasis mounts as well as tailshaft compatibility. also you would have to run a S2/R34 ecu as the auto is controlled by this (not a straight swap, rewiring would be needed maybe additional sensors???). i'd say it could be done, but i think the time, effort and money involved in doing it wouldn't be worth it. it could be better spent on a manual conversion or shift kit and other upgrades for the auto you have.

you need to check the error codes of the ecu to see what the error is. my guess is the O2 sensor, i had a problem with my engine check light flashing up while i was driving on the highway once, when i checked the error it was the O2 sensor.

you shouldn't have lost the tune on the safc, unless the unit is faulty. aftermarket ecu's and remapped ecu's also wont loose there tune when disconnected from the battery.