QWK32

edit: double post

The internal wastegate rear is a garrett item, uses the same 5-bolt dump pattern the GT30's do and also the XR6 Turbo. Mine is the .82 AR rear but there were other options. I measured the wastegate port to be 32mm which flows enough for my setup but Ive heard of the XR6 guys having to machining out the port bigger to flow enough for the 4L. Im not sure if there is an internal gate option for the newer GTX35 series.

Im running my GT35 low mount, its also internal gate. It all fits on there snugly, only real issue was with a split dump pipe, the wastegate partition wasn't flowing enough causing boost to climb. Made up a bellmouth and it has been all sweet since then. I've been in a RB25/30 R33 with a GT3582, it doesn't feel like there is any lag at all.

Damn, I was hoping I could start an enduro then if I got bored of it just play arcade till i got the urge to finish it. And lol at the driving line, I turned it off ages ago, it doesn't really match my driving style, too fast into corners, bounce off other cars to assist the turn, slide off the track sideways into the dirt then flat out till the next turn lol

Is there anyway to setup an auto backup of saves to a networked drive? The only way I've seen to get the saves to external drive was from the save manager and manually selecting copy to USB.

i don't believe that you can attach a % to drivetrain losses, i believe it does slightly increase as the power does but nowhere near the levels your saying, that is a lot of power being lost as heat. i've been involved in one of these drivetrain losses arguments on here before and after 10 pages of comments everyone was still in disagreement lol 150awkw is about the average for a stock S2 NEO stagea, yes some people do see less though. i have been running my 400rwhp setup for 3 years now, daily driven car, and its still going strong. my mods are only very minimal with an exhaust, intercooler, boost controller, ecu, injectors and the one mods that really counts, a GT3582 pumping out 1.5bar. i have sacrificed a bit of response and have easily made a lot of power up top. i am starting to get concerned about the auto but its held up really well considering the only mod i've done to it is a valve body upgrade.

had a look in Nissan Fast it lists 14411-AA100, the plastic wheel one, on all stagea's 08/98 and up. so all S2's. it does however list the 14411-AA110, the steel wheel one, as an alternative part number. also a bit of useless info, in my version of fast it lists a replacement turbo at ¥120000 = $1516.

There is no way 500fwhp is only 250rwkw, that would mean that the drive line is sucking up 120kw. If you go off the stock setup 206fwkw, averages out to be about 150rwkw, that's only 56kw in driveline losses. So off a 500hp/370kw engine I'd expect to see just over 300rwkw as wolverine said. It also comes down to the mods you pick, most people don't want to sacrifice response for more power, and you can only really have one or the other on a 2.5l engine. If your willing to sacrifice response and throw on a larger turbo there is no reason why you can't push through the 300rwkw mark with relatively minimal mods. Getting to the 400rwkw mark is a whole other story.

Should be alright, I ran mine stocker on 13psi, although only for about 6months until I upgraded it. I also ran a plastic wheeled R33 turbo at 14psi on my R32 for years without it failing. I'll have a look on Nissan fast later and see what turbo part numbers I can find. But I reakon they followed the r34 and went to steel wheel in the late models.

I wouldn't go off the number on the comp housing, I had an old r33 turbo with 45v3 stamped on it.

Yeah the nylon ones do have a second fin but it's not as prominent as the steel ones, you can't really notice it looking down the compressor inlet. Yes it will be some kind of alloy, I don't know what though. It all depends on the steel as to weather its magnetic or not ie stainless steel isn't magnetic. I don't think the stagea followed the R34 and had a 3rd series, it's just an R34 thing. Apart from the garret turbo I know the fuel/ign mapping is different on the S3 R34's, I've compared the base maps of the R34s supplied with nistune.

looks like the same style as the steel wheel compressors in the early model R33's before they changed to the nylon/plastic ones. i remember reading that one of the series's of the R34's had a steel wheel compressor, maybe the Stagea did too. just found it. check out this link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69089-differences-between-r34-and-r33-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__1527454

Maybe post up a pick of your turbo. Does it have any other markings. How many blades does it have and are they twin or single blades? Mine was just the normal nylon/plastic comp wheel with the ceramic turbine. I have a 99 model.

500-600hp ?!?. It's achievable, but will set you back a fair bit of coin. That's fully built rb25 with serious bolt-ons or rb30 territory, probably set you back a minimum of $15k. To give you an idea I sunk about $6k-$7k worth of bolt-ons into my stagea and I'm only just at the 400hp mark. My engine is still unopened but id expect to pay the same amount again to get it built. You should search for the stagea dyno thread or go over to the forced induction section and have a look through the RB25 dyno thread, should he able to get a fair idea of what mod combinations give what results.

most common cause of error code 21 is failing coilpacks. you may not notice them breaking down until they get worse. the CAS can also cause the ignition 21 error code but this isn't as common.

good comparison for a stock stagea there and you must be talking to the wrong people, nistune is a very capable ecu and i would even rate it higher than a power fc. my list of mods is as long as your r33's and its all being run by nistune. sturb25: nistune is probably going to do more for fuel economy than power on a completely stock stagea. the biggest issue with the stock setup is the dump and exhaust, its very restrictive to the point where potential power is lost. with an aftermarket exhaust system and nistune only there will be a very noticeable difference in power, especially up top where it normally chokes up on the stock setup.

lol. it helps when work is 5km away and a shopping complex just down the road. i don't have to travel far to get where i'm going. it kinda makes the high fuel consumption not hurt the pocket as much. if i had to travel some of the distances you guys do i'd probably be on here complaining about it lol. but then, you don't buy a performance import for good fuel economy.

4860, you would have to batch fire injection and ignition as it only has 4 drivers of each, not really a big deal. the 6860 would be better as it has 6 of each. why are you interested in EMS? i'm not bagging them out, they just aren't the most popular ecu in the RB world. Probably should ask first if you have a manual conversion done? if its still auto you should definitely go the emanage route, you could try and piggy back any aftermarket ecu but the emanage is the best fit for the job.

just knocked this up for you. basically you just use a normal switch, the one you already have should be good enough i guess. then just use 3 automotive relays, just the black box bosch one. there will be one wire left over on the hazard switch, a red wire with blue trace, that is just an illumination wire for the globe in the original hazard switch.

I'm in the same boat as you, I get in the 300-350km range a tank. GT35, nistune, exhaust, injectors, etc, etc. On the highway it's ok, I get to the 500 mark. Doesn't bother me at all, my weekly average k's are about 60-70km. Some times it's 3 weeks between servo visits.

Yeah I've never really had an issue with dropouts on updates, they are just really slow. Last one was some dlc, 500mb and it took nearly 2 hours! The dropouts happen more during online multiplayer, gets really annoying, never had an issue with wired. What's the speed like in those ethernet over power setups? I had them in mind to extend my network but just ended up running a length of CAT5 under the house.

Nah it's not that your ps3 and router don't get along, ps3's just have crappy wireless hardware. Mine sits less than 1m from my router and it still disconnects during games and downloads really really slow. Swapped to cable connection and it's all good.

even though the S1 shares the same engine as the R33 models the ecu has a plug the same style as the R34/S2 ecu's. also to that, of the S1 ecu's there were 3 variations used, i think some of the guys have just plugged in R34 PowerFC's without a problem, while one of the year models is a pain to replace, the ecu's pinout is a fair bit different to the others. if your after some better info you could ask SAU members GoldZilla or Duncan. both have S1's and have had experience in upgrading/replacing the ecu's.

ok. so basically you can't do it with just a two pin, one pole switch. which is what i'm guessing you have? i can do it with a two pole switch, or a two pole relay. BUT....... either your indicators will still work with the ignition off. or you hazards will only work with the ignition on. there is a more complex way using a few relays but that is more or less re-inventing and hazard switch from scratch to suit your needs. give me a minute and i'll do a quick paint diagram of the hazard wiring. edit: the diagram. so it basically the same as the one you found. i was wrong in saying that Pin 4 on your diagram would do it, i didn't realise that both left and right indicators would be linked with the button pushed on, so when ever you turned on an indicator both would flash if we remove the flasher signal and indicator lines from the switch (pins 1, 7, 8 on my diagram) and emulate that on an external switch you will get what you are after, though as a said before, indicators will still work when ignition is off, or hazards will only work when ignition is on depending on if you leave the hazard button in the on or off position, unless you throw another relay in the mix.

Mid race save for endurance races is a whole lot of win in my books. The only reason I haven't done them is because I can't be bothered sitting in front of the tv for 24hrs. Even if I pause it between sessions the ps3 will be left on for days and that can't be good for it.