QWK32

where are you located? i have one but dont want to post.

thanks chris, you might be able to tell me, where is the the lock and unlock signal wire for all four door, i can find the one that does the 3 doors and boot, but not the signal for all four? how does the signal from the key, lock the drivers side door? i'm guessing the other doors lock once the drivers side one does.

This is for the S2 guys, S1 might be the same, i don't know. when you push the door lock button on the drivers side door controlls, does it lock all the doors? mine locks all the other doors except for the drivers door?

is it a stagea specific one? where did you get it from?

^^^^^^ i would also like to know this. i know there was a group buy a while ago, where they custom made ones?

try spraying some Inox/Lubex/WD40 or similar on it and leave it overnight. keep putting more on everynow and then. it may work. but being alloy it easily binds up if the thred hasn't been moved in a while. i'm constantly snapping off stainless bolts that have bound up in alloy threds at work, nothing you can do about it. if you have to cut it off, which may be the easiest way, before going to an engineering shop to get one made up, first go down to a place like BSC or anyother bearing/engineering supply place and see if they can source a ring nut for you.

for the backrest bit, there is a bolt on each side down in the bottom corner. the top is held in by some slide style latches. after you remove the bolts from each side at the bottom just slide the seat up and it will come free of the slide latch bits. then if you hold your tounge right you can get it out of the cabin. can't remember how the bottom comes out but once you get the back piece out i think you'll be able to see how.

i agree. it just helps the engine and turbo breathe so much more. you can feel staight away how much better the car goes with them.

i've heard the walbro 500hp intank ones are good unit, apparently there were some dodgy ebay ones getting around prone to failure but if you get one from a site sponser they are ok. you can get the kit for around $195. im looking into getting a new pump soon aswell.

with a four piston caliper you have both pads being pushed on the rotor. with a twin piston only one is pushed onto the rotor, the other is just a 'buffer/pad' for the other to push against. now i know the piston diameter in the stagea twins is slightly bigger than diameter of the skyline caliper pistons, but the overall surface area of piston to pad is greater on the 4 piston than the twin. because of this the force the quad piston caliper can apply to the rotor is greater than the twin could apply, which IMO more than compensates for a 15% approx smaller pad. the other plus is rotors/pads for the S2 are hard to get unless you get from nissan, skylines are not. i know some of you are trying to source alternatives for the front and rear, but they are already easily available for the R33/R34 and you can pick them up cheap through the constantly running group buys.

they aren't that much bigger. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a201105-

they also do ignition the same way the SITC does by manipulating the cas signal. and yes, fuel the same way as a SAFC.

i think your pritty much spot on with a shift kit, if your retaining the auto. the only other things left are a turbo upgrade, abit more involved ecu/piggyback like an EMU, or a manual converstion. id also look at doing the fuel pump, the one you have is +10yr old. also an ajustable cam gear may give you a gain but there are other things i'd look at first.

i think the normal tube/fin style coolers would be more efficient. the one you linked doesn't look like it would have the surface area contact to the cooling fins that a convertional oil cooler would. also i'd think the air flow through a tube/fin coller would be better at removing heat than a larger "solid" cooler would.

couldn't you just tell them a measurement of the length?

spotted a white S2 on Cannondale St in Cannon Hill yesterday around 3pm.

i wouldn't go off the number stamped on the housing. use the compressor wheel type to tell what series it is.

check this thred out, may have info your after http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...-s-t183562.html

i think you mean Hard Brake line, not handbrake line. on the back of the caliper there is a small length of hard pipe before it connects to the flexi pipe.

pm sent

he means the timing belt, idler bearing and water pump must be changed. nissan reccomends it to be done at 100 000km, but it is good practice and also gives you piece of mind that it be done.

put some glad wrap tightly over the top of the toilet bowl so she wont notice its there, leave the toilet seat down. then wait and see what happens when she goes to the bathroom.

late 2001? i just had a look and my copy covers to 10/2001. there are some people on here with the newer release, you may have to wait until one of them runs it through.

what year model is the car, i'm having trouble bringing it up on the copy of fast i have. it covers all models up to and including 2001.

is the jaycar boost controller already constructed and working?