QWK32

had another look on fast for some more info but couldn't find any. i'd suggest going down to the wreakers and having a look for one. or take one of the good ones out of the drivers side door and go down to an engineering workshop and get some made up.

what is so unique about them, they are just a 180SX rebadged as a 240SX, in LHD, and a different engine.

firing order of the engine is: 1 5 3 6 2 4 so for two firings in a row you wont have any power.

are you sure that will work, most rear rotors i have seen have a deeper offset than fronts to accomodate the handbrake shoes.

i'm sure you could get them to fit, just how much work would be involved is another thing. what do the M35's have standard? do you think there might be a better match/upgrade with something off the V series skylines?

just having a look in fast and it appears that all the stagea's had the same window assembley. here is the screen shot. if its not on here it may be on the door diagram.

i can post up a nissan fast screen shot of the electric window assembley, if you can id what part it is i can find out more info. front or rear door, and i may need you VIN number to get the right part number.

IIRC there is a push button just above the lights on/off switch. where the rear demister button is i think. its been while since i've looked at an R32 dash.

i know it maybe silly, but could it be the fog light switch turned on. it will also turn on the parkers even if you don't have fog lights.

Build date: 10/97 Color: KR4 Int Color: Z Transmission: Auto Engine: RB25DET Drive: 4WD It is and RS Four V

what in particular are you looking for?

if you want to go for a 0.8mm gap on an iridium plug, not just buy them already gapped to 0.8? or are the ones you have only newish?

really there quite a few things i can think of to check, you may need to be more descriptive about what is and isn't working? fuel pump priming, ecu got power, etc. and yes, if you have a bigger turbo and bigger injectors you will need and aftermarket ecu. depending on what ecu you choose, if you can get the standard engine loom wiring up right you might be able to get a plug in ecu. if you cant get the wiring sorted then just get a full wire in aftermarket ecu.

lol, my bad, sorry. i thought it was on the elbow, it must be on the next piece of pipe after it. i never got the elbow when i got mine, i made one up.

on the R32 turbo that fitting is linked to the wastegate actuator. on the R33 turbo that fitting is on the bolt on elbow off the turbo, do you have the R33 elbow to go on the turbo? if not, just run a vacuum line from the plenum to the wastegate actuator on the R33 turbo. when i did the same conversion on my 32 i drilled and tapped the compressor housing on the R33 turbo in the same spot as the R32 one. IIRC its 1/8" BSP-T.

its supposed to jump from lean to rich when your at idle or light load, if you put a good multimeter on the signal line it will continuously jump from 0.1v to 0.9v to 0.1v really fast.

do a search for cleaning the Cold Start Valve. sounds like its the problem if your car will run fine once its warmed up.

do you think it may be like a medicine bottle cap, you have to push it down and turn to release it? i don't know just an idea.

from the video it explains that it is just a water/meth injection system.

i wouldn't jump to the conclusion that it is the O2 sensor, i was just saying that i had the same thing with the light flashing up and going away with a rev. i'd see if someone on here that lives close to you has the consult/datascan software can check you error codes for you, or do the error code thing yourself by bridging the two pins on the consult plug. or just go back to nissan and get them to check the codes. see what the problem is before spending anymore money replacing parts that may not have anything to do with the problem.

i had the same thing as you, check engine light flash up, give it a little rev and it would go away. when i checked the error codes it was the O2 sensor. but i would have thought nissan would have been able to give you a better idea of what it was when the checked the error codes. the error codes remain on the error code list until you reset them.

so did you change the TPS position to get the signal voltage down to around 0.3 when closed?

which wiring loom did you use for the engine? if you used the RB25 engine loom and had it spliced into the cefiro loom, maybe when you did the splice, or whoever did it, the TPS signal line for the ecu wasn't connected to the ATTESA unit aswell.

yeah these will lock it down solid, but the in cabin noise will increase by a fair bit. when i had to do the same in my 32 i went for taking the car off the roar for a week, i had another to drive, worked on it a little bit each arvo after work and changed the bushes for a set of Noltec ones. i dont know if you can still get noltec bushes, you'll have to check, but its your only real other option. the in cabin noise only increased by a little bit with them, nowhere near as much as a set of the solid mount ones though. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...20&start=20