QWK32

if your looking for a couple of good mechanics in bundy i know a couple.

steering wheel sold pending payment.

if you have a plate to go between the BOV and the mounting plate just leave the vac line connected to the BOV. if your removing the BOV completely and repacing it with a blanking plate then just put a bolt/screw up the end of the vac line and clamp it with a cable tie. also block off the BOV recirculate/return pipe.

Both items located on the Southside Brisbane, QLD. R32 GTR Drivers Seat: came out of my R32 GTST, so i know for sure it will bolt into a GTST 2 door model. all the adjustment knobs and levers are in good working order. the seat looks the way you would expect a used 15yr old seat to look. there is some wear on the bottom cushion, as well as a couple of tears in the fabric on the side of the back section. they aren't fraying or getting any bigger though. $150 Pickup, not willing to post MOMO Steering Wheel and Boss Kit: leather MOMO steering wheel with Hicas angle sensor compatible boss kit. this came off my R32 GTST. steering wheel is in good condition, comes with a working, yellow, MOMO horn button. $50 pickup, $60 posted

pm sent....

read the last couple of pages of this thred (15 and 16). there are a couple of post by myself (make sure you read both my long posts, i had to make some corrections in the second one) and also by Darrinspencer on what is involved in putting R33 and R34 brake on a S2 stagea. short answer is yes they will fit, but you need to alter a couple of things.

probably not. bunnings may though, they should be open late.

you may be able to (depending on how damaged the hex is) go to a tool shop and by the next size up allenkey socket attachment, so if the original one is 10mm you should be able to buy an 11mm one, maybe even a 10.5mm one. and then just use a hammer and hit it into the hex, make sure its in there real good then use a breaker bar to turn it.

sounds like the stock boost solinoid isn't operating properly. it isn't switching to 'high boost' (7psi), from low boost (4psi).

was there an earth at the back of the engine for the coils. i cant remember.

ok then, just check that the part number of the coils you got is the one that is specified to go with the Rb25 neo. what plugs did you use? haven't left a vacuum line off some where?

what coils packs did you get?

i you can get spare M35 keys cheap easily then id go for one of the setups that uses that factory door lock button. i looked into it for my C34 but a spare electronic key was quite expensive. there are a few good alarm systems out there, i just got myself and Mongoose M80. does every thing you want an alarm/immobiliser to do, doesn't have all the other crap like remote start, etc. and it is australian standard rated and 3 point immobiliser, so it will be ok with you insurance company. should be able to get the alarm and installation for around 500 bucks (dont quote me though)

do you have any idea what some of the things are that its spliced into? is the coiled up bit near the ecu connected to anything? if the wires are running all through the car i would say that its not for an aftermarket piggyback ecu, because if it was they would be in the area of the ecu only. my best guess is that they are wires for a removed alarm system.

ecu for sure. with a 3" exhaust and a hiflow turbo the thing probably needs a good tune. also with a tune you should get better fuel economy and wont be spending as much money on fuel, which mean you will be able save more money for the other upgrades and just have a look in the paper and see if anyone is giving away a couple of goats, those things are like a 24/7 lawn mower.

pm sent

with multiple electrical faults id start by looking at the alternator. if its not making enough charge or even too much it will cause all sorts of problems with you electrical systems.

i don't know about the FPR, just try it and see if it will fit. i think the engines would use around the same pressure. the neutral sensor isn't needed. i wouldn't worry about it. i'm not sure on skylines, but i know that in some other cars its stops you starting the car in gear, and i've seen another car that when you put it in gear it stepped up the revs a little bit.

^^^^^ correction. R32 run a hydraulic system for the HICAS. and when the clutch master cylinder goes it tends to leak into the cabin, not the engine bay. Greasy - your hicas pump is apart of the power steering pump. the only thing on the drivers side of the engine bay to do with the hicas is a control solinoid. if you have checked all the fitting on it and you don't seem to be using any powersteering fluid it wont be that.

measure the diameter of the rotor. measure the height of the rotor (braking part and hub part). measure the thickness of the rotor. then go on this website in the product search bit http://www.dba.com.au/product_search_dev.php and see if you can find a match to what you have. a quick check is, R32 GTST rotors are 280mm diameter and R33 GTST are 296mm diameter.

yeah, after reading your post darrin i got abit sus to that rotor, i knew it didn't look right. so i checked the specs of it. only 280mm diameter. i have some r32 GTST rotors here and checked it against them. nope not them either. so i dug up the receipt for them and off to the wreakers. when i got down there i explained to the guy what i've found. we got another R33 GTST front rotor and the one i had was heaps different. we checked all the dimensions and the closest match to it was the front rotor off a R33 GTS4, but they have 4 stud and this one has 5. the wreakers best guess was that it is off a non-turbo stagea? anyway....... in the end i left with a proper R33 GTST rotor. just got home and trial fitted it. PERFECT FIT! the caliper now sits perfectly to the rotor without spacing it off the hub. the rotor doesn't foul on anything. the only thing is the mounting bolts, i will have to get longer bolts and make a bush to center it in the hole. and the brake line, which i will try what darrin said about removing the flared bit from the caliper hole and i'm sure the stagea line will fit without a problem. here are some more pics, you can see the stagea caliper propped up on bricks in the background. i didn't feel like removing it and bleeding the brakes again today. and the difference in the rotor sizes, the stagea on the right and the R33 on the left

see thats what i said to the guy at the wreakers when i got it but he told me that, no it was indeed a front it had just been written on wrong. plus its not as deep as a rear disk is and it doesn't have the section for the handbrake shoes to clamp onto.

ok, so with all the recent talk of the R33 GTST brake conversion onto a stagea, there is alot of doubt over it. it is something i have been looking into and i already had all the gear sitting in the garage. i decided to go and check out a few things this arvo For starters i have a Series 2, RS Four V. so this info is for you guys that have the same. What i found: - the R33 rotor fits on the Stagea hub without rubbing on anything. - the stagea bolt is a M14 x 1.5mm with a thred length of 50mm and the R33 bolt is a M12 x 1.25mm with a thred length of 35mm - the calipers mounting holes are the same centers as the stagea hub. so to fit the caliper to the hub you need to get a M12 x 1.25mm bolt with a thred length of 50-52mm. make a bush to locate the bolt in the center of the stagea hubs hole, i'll be using stainless and turning it up at work, i'd also recommend using a decent material as a bush (mild or stainless) - also to locate the caliper central to the rotor. between the stagea hub and the R33 caliper you need to put a spacer to space the caliper out. i tested it with the washer off the stagea caliper bolt and it centralised it really well, so a spacer of about 3mm is needed. i'll be making a spacer abit more robust than a washer, and i'd suggest the same to anyone else doing it. - there is about 5mm of clearance between the calipers mount and the rotor, so no rubbing there either. - the R33 caliper sits out about 20mm further towards the wheel spokes than the stagea calipers, so check you have enough room. - now for the brake lines. the R33 caliper brake line fitting is a flare type fitting. the Stagea brake line fitting is a Banjo bolt (same type as turbo oil and water line fittings). but both the calipers do have the same thred size and pitch. so what i tried was fitting the Banjo fitting to the R33 caliper and it screwed in. BUT......... the bolt is about 2mm too long and bottoms out in the hole, so it wont clamp up the feed line and brass washers. solution, there should be no problem in cutting 2-3mm off the end of the Banjo bolt to suit it to the R33 caliper hole depth. just make sure to clean up the center hole in the Banjo after cutting to make sure its clear and clean of swarf. now before anyone says anything about it the R33 caliper does have a machined flat surface at the brake line entry that will give a nice sealing face for the brass washer on the Banjo fitting, almost like nissan was going to use the Banjo style fitting and then at the last minute decided not to. also the R33 caliper doesn't have the piece of the casting on the caliper that the stagea one does, the bit that stops the female part of the Banjo fitting turning when you are doing up the bolt part. just use a spanner or shifter to hold it still while you do up the bolt. i think thats about it. next trial fit will be the rear brakes. i have a pair of R32 GTST rear brakes in the garage, and from what i can find out is that the R32 GTST and GTR and the R33 GTST all use the same rear brakes. i'll be looking at this to see what is envolved in fitting these up soon. also some pics of the caliper and rotor fitted, and a few other i took today.

Dave yes, the R33 GTST pads are smaller. about 80% of the size of the S2 front brake pads. but they are 4 pot calipers, so it more than makes up for them being a smaller pad. if you are after a direct swap i've read on here that R34 GTT brakes are supposed to be a direct swap. apparently the bolt sizes to bolt the caliper to the hub are the same as the S2 stagea.

stageas only came out with 2 pot fronts and singles on the rear. id think the 260RS would have better braking though.