QWK32

second that for Kudos Motorsports.

the bit circled in red is a contact relay. and if it is buzzing/chattering then either, its stuffed, or there is a bad conection to the coil. easiest thing would be to replace it.

did you get GPS maps with that unit?

the R33 caplipers have a different sized bolts that bolt them to the hub, the S2 stagea ones are too big for the R33 brakes, from memory the stagea ones are M14 and the R33 M12. to bolt the R33 GTST calipers to the S2 stagea hub you'll need to get some longer bolts that suit the R33 calipers, as the R33 bolts aren't long enough to get through the thicker stagea caliper mounting plate on the hub. you'll also need some sort of bush to help locate the M12 bolt in a 14mm hole, i am going to turn up a bush on the lathe when i finally get around to doing it, but i've heard of someone using a small piece of copper pipe. i haven't looked into the rotor side of things yet, one thing i can tell you is the stagea rotor cant be used with the R33 calipers. i have some R33 GTST calipers in the garage and had a look one day at what was needed to put them on, i also have a S2 RS four V. and thinking of it now the only thing i didn't check was to see if the brake line fittings were compatible.

yeah the lockup torque converter wont kick in when your in tiptronic. with an aftermarket exhaust it is really noticable when it kicks in, mine will kick in at speeds as low as 50-60kph.

i'm sure there is no differance in the R32 RB20DET ecu's. i had an older one and swapped it into my 92 model GTST and it ran it fine, no problems. the only different ones are the Cefiro RB20DET ecu's, from memory they only have one knock signal input.

i got one. but one of the top mounting screw holes has broken off a little bit. i was going to throw it out so if you want it you can have it for free.

S1 will work fine.

the two plugs are the same except the BCPR7ES ones have a colder heat range. apart from that they are identical.

that will learn you for going to bundy i was just up there visiting family for xmas, couldn't wait to get back to bris for new years. nah but thats bad luck, sorry to hear, did you have to leave you car there or did you get it home ok? good reason for a turbo upgrade.

i also think the 2-3" jump is a bit dodge. but to answer your question, i have a cheapo R33 dump pipe on my s2, just had to change the angle of the long straight piece so it met up with the cat ok. that flexi section may help with this, i cant remember how much i had to change the angle but those flexi pieces only bend slightly.

yep, just keep adding a new topic every 10 minutes, that will make someone reply with what your after but seriously, i haven't seen one, and dont think you will find one on here, all i have seen are ecu pinout diagrams, there is a topic for them in the stagea section.

it looks like one of the cooling pro style intercooler kits. maybe contact just jap and see if you can get a replacement.

just to make sure the coils are the problem, you could do and ECU diagnostic.

depends on which cas you have. all the mitsubishi ones (silver/alloy ones with small mitsubishi symbol in them) are the same. or there is the Hitachi (i think its hitachi) one from the R34's S2 Stagea's and last of the R33 models, its all black, plastic case one. the two have different engagement and the wires are reversed between the two.

yep, a few bolts and double sided tape. the double sided tape will have the wing stuck on there real good but it will come with a good yank, just be careful as you may lift some of the clearcoat with it.

yeah i also got better fuel economy after fitting a full exhaust.

i've go a stock S2 stagea rear muffler in the garage. but it would only take an exhaust place like 20min if they weren't busy to fix it up.

how do you think you will go with the insurance side of things? if you ever have to make a theft claim (god forbid), i thought you had to show that you had a professional do the install of the alarm immobiliser system, i might be wrong though. this is the only reason i haven't gone and installed one myself.

you may be better getting it up on a hoist and have a welder handy as many of the dump pipes out there need a little tweeking to fit correctly. but if you know its going to fit then its not hard to attempt yourself, just do the usually exhaust things, spray a little WD40 or Inox on the bolts/nuts before removing them, and you may need to replace a gasket or two.

a little bit further up that loom you'll find two green relays, could be one of them chattering, you may have disturbed one of them or the cables going to them. they are the ECCS relays which give power to you ecu, injectors and coils. i'd start by checking these relays.

unless it is a wideband O2 sensor i wouldn't trust what it said anyway.

looks like it, or maybe on the engine side of the radiator at the bottom???

safc has nothing directly to do with the O2 sensor. check where the safc was installed, spliced into the ecu harness for any damage to other cables.

auto/manual?? location??