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QWK32

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Everything posted by QWK32

  1. doesn't matter about your engines internals, it matters about how much you turbo is flowing. a RB20 with stock turbo at 13psi hits around 70% - 80% on the AFM. with a R33 turbo pushing 13psi its in 80% - 90% range. well it was on my 32 anyway.
  2. i've always used the consult link to my laptop but this may be of some use http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/EC...html&hl=ecu i don't know if the paperclip trick works on the R32
  3. or interrupt the ecu's main power or ign start signal. or the power to the ECCS relays, or the fuel pump relay signal. there are a few things you can interrupt on the car that will 'immobilise' it, some of them the car will crank but there is now way it will start.
  4. it wont be oil pressure, there is a separate warning light for it. the ecu is throwing and error code, run an ecu diagnostic or get someone with consult software to check them for you. when the engine check light lit up in my car it turned out to be the O2 sensor.
  5. do a serch on Clutch Pivot Ball. its usually the culprit, there is a couple of threds on how to grease it.
  6. what do you mean by "drivers window switchs with panel"? i have the drivers side window/mirror controlls for a 2 door if thats what you are after.
  7. i had a quick look into this and what i found out was, the reason nissan went for the pull type clutch was for its quieter and easier operation. i don't know from a performance point of view.
  8. location?
  9. yeah most exhaust shops should carry them, especially if they do performance exhausts. just ask for a 3" 2 bolt gasket.
  10. are you aware that you have to get these soldered onto the ecu's board. and it is fairly tricky soldering at that. also contact nistune themselves, it is really cheap to just send your ecu down to them and get them to fit it for you.
  11. BK type plugs have a 2.5 mm shorter terminal end (the bit that meets the coil pack) than BCP type. other than that they are the same, eg. BKR6ES and BCPR6ES are the same except for the BK one is shorter. you wont have a problem if it terminal still has a good connection with the coil pack or spark plug lead electrode, which ever you are using.
  12. its a standard bolt PCD anyway just a 2 bolt gasket. i know 2.25" through to 3" all have the same bolt PCD. thats why you can bolt on a 3" catback exhaust to the stock 2.25" cat. the holes are 105mm PCD.
  13. oh ok. i just checked the projector type i have sitting in my garage and it was a H1 globe.
  14. look into the Nistune boards. You can tune the stock ecu, just need to get a chip put into the stock ecu. over in the stagea section it has been discussed over the last week or so, see link. S2 stagea autos use the same ecu as the R34 auto. and at around $300 for the chip installed, then all you need is a tune, its a good option. i'll be doing it soon. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pi...us-t105859.html the last 2 or 3 pages
  15. Projector type have the H1 globe.
  16. NGK: BCPR6ES
  17. checked all your intercooler pipes joins for a loose clamp or popped off joiner? if you just gave the car a service you would have had the pipes off, maybe you missed one or didn't do one up properly when you put it back together.
  18. no. the clicking noise means the solinoid is switching. so it is working. it should click once when you ground the cable.
  19. yeah, what i'm getting at is the solinoid may be stuffed. if it is it wont be bleeding off any air and the wastegate will only be opening to its normal 4-5psi. it may have been stuffed even before you got the car and that why you never got the higher boost level.
  20. if you turn the key to "ON" can you hear the solinoid clicking? you may have to disconnect the ground cable and do it by hand with the key left in the "ON" position, so you can have you head in the engine bay listening for it.
  21. don't run the wires at all. unplug the soliniod, and pipe the wastegate acuator straight into the intercooler pipe nipple.
  22. tuning software is tuning software, there are all pritty much the same, just different company and different layout, in the end its just a fuel map, an ignition map (well its a bit more than that but you the idea). so it wouldn't be that hard for a tuner to figure it out quickly if they haven't used it before.
  23. R&R occurs when you have excessive knock (detonation) which can also come from winding the boost up and not adding anyfuel, having a really lean mixture. unlike the airflow cut, once R&R has been hit it takes a little time to reset itself. Airflow cut only happens at the instant you max the AFM out, then everything is back to normal.
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