QWK32

no such thing as boost cut in skyline/stagea ecu's. its an air flow cut, which happens when you max out the AFM. it is a common thing when you run higher boost. when you hit the cut its like the engine just dies for a second. if your experiencing airflow cut then an upgrade to a Z32 or Q45 AFM would be needed. and Jerome, if you have an auto stagea the Haltech unit is not an option, unless you look at running it piggyback, which to me isn't worth it. Dave, good to see the Nistune board works for the S2 Stagea, i thought it would, i'll definately be getting this done soon aswell.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ed...ts-t216504.html 3rd Thred down the Ideas/feedback section

did you cut the black wire so as to disconnect it from the ecu. on the plug for the boost soliniod. you should have cut the black wire, and the bit of wire coming out of the plug shouldn't be connected to anything at all. the white wire remains connected to the solinoid. and you ground the black wire you cut off that plug (the one that goes to the solinoid) only. its just in your pic it looks like you have grounded the wire coming out of the plug?

you have pushed either up or down on the toggle switch while in the display screen (i cant remember which direction does it). to put it back to normal push up or down while in the display screen, one of the ways should work. yes. 1 in and 1 out for sensor calc. even for Z32 afms. its just the Sensor type that is different, for standard R32 GTST its HW 4 & 4. for a R32 with a Z32 afm its HW 2 & 4

M12 x 1.25mm total stud length is 50mm (this is the hole thing including the knurled bit and head)

shouldn't be a problem, just have to check all the pinouts and match them up. all that comes from the ecu is the ignition signal, in 32's an S1 33's it goes to an ignitor pack which then fires the coils, in the S2 the signal goes straight to the coil which has a built in ignitor. the signal is the same from the ecu, just handled differently at the engine side of things.

i've got a few of these at home, i'll check when i finish work, shot me a pm so i remember and i'll check the size for you.

i don't think nistune do a board for the R33, S1 or S2. also having the ignitors in the coils doesn't make a difference to the ecu. you've converted to manual, there are better options for engine management out there.

when i changed the subframe bushes in my 32 i used GTR bushes, and machined 12mm (i think, don't quote me) of the top bit that sticks up. only to the find out that Noltec does make the shorter one, its just not listed as a replacement for the GTST. if you don't get the shorter ones or make the GTR ones shorter you wont have much thred sticking out the bottom of the bush to do it up with.

no need to. they are only interested in fuel economy. plus widebands are more expensive.

if you have or can get you hands on the emanage tuning software there is an option in there where you say what size you old injectors were and what size the new ones are, then it automatically scales down the injector outputs for you. this would be ok till you get to the tuners, just remember to let them know what you have done. otherwise it will just be running really rich. you'll just have to see how it runs, better to be rich than lean. you may foul the sparky plugs on the way to the tuners if its too rich.

just run a quick search, there was a thred not that long ago about the performance between the JJR and Splitfires.

the electrics may have been just playing up because of a dead alternator and battery. there is a solinoid on the powersteering that bumps up the pressure once you start moving, if you have a dead alternator then you will have low voltage in the system and that solinoid may not have enough power to switch, or it may be chattering. you need good voltage on skylines or everything plays up. start by jump starting you car. then while its running disconnect the battery, if the engine dies then most probably the alternator is dead, or there is a fault with the alternator 'on' wire. if it keeps running then the battery is rooted.

the only thing i know is the subframe(cradle) mounting bushes are different. the GTR bushes are about 12mm longer, so you will have trouble getting the bolts to do up underneath it.

neo injectors are top feed but the injector type is different. gtr injectors wont fit in a neo fuel rail.

it would save you alot of time and hassel if you can get a diagnostic tool to read the ECU codes. where abouts in queensland are you? there are a few workshops around with the diagnostic tools, nissan themselves should be able to help you out, as well as a few members on here that have the consult software.

probably the idle tensioner bearings. its a good habit to change them at the same time as a timing belt.

in my S2 auto, im getting 350-380km to a tank city/town driving, and 450km highway driving. my O2 sensor just died this week, just replaced it a filled the tank up today. i'll see how i go with the new one, hopefully abit better.

not really, the emanage alters the injector and ignition output signal from the ecu. it can also alter the AFM input signal. the SAFC, SITC and Haltech unit all alter the input signal of the AFM and CAS before it reaches the ecu, so what you need to still get smooth auto changes and reduced stress on the auto between changes. its just the haltech unit does both from the one unit (laptop tunable only) and you need to get both of the Apexi units to get the same result. I'd say you'd be right in assuming that is the JECS model ecu. i'm 99% sure the R34 auto ecu is the same as the S2 Stagea model, and they have the board for the R34. i think they might have said 'JECS' model because they only say its for a WC34, not weather its a S1 or S2.

yeah the remap option is the best way to go for us auto stagea owners. but even if you were to go for a piggy back the Haltech interceptor/miniceptor is a good little unit. its like a SITC and SAFC in one.

it will be right mate. it will keep all the settings.

if you can, i'd get the VIN and post it up in the "Vins You Want Fasted" thred and see what turns up when someone runs it through Nissan Fast.

3 slots. if you want a pic let me know. i have my old orange ones sitting in the cupboard.

this is what i have been waitng for. a while ago i heard they were trialing a new board for the r34 (S2 stagea is the sam ecu) but i haven't looked back into it since then. any idea on a rough price for the install and tune?

finally got the rest of my exhaust done last weekend. i already had a stagea specific HKS HI-Power 409 cat back system, which was a perfect fit, all hangers lined up perfectly, didn't hit on anything, very easy install. i had a 3" R33 bellmouth dump, and i got a stagea x-force cat from justjap. when we trail fitted the dump it fouled on a part sitting off the side of the auto, so we had to adjust the angle abit. we also found that we had to add about 25mm of pipe to the straight section that runs under the car to get it to reach the cat. no problems with the cats flange angles though. very happy with the result, it picks up alot better, better midrange power, and for some reason i believe i also have better fuel economy.