QWK32

first of all if its an auto don't even worry about a PowerFC, the auto computer is apart of the standard ECU. this means you have to retain the stock ECU so the auto can function. If its a manual then you shouldn't have a problem, just the same as a PowerFC in a manual R34 GT-T.

On an R33 it doesn't, hicas is all electrical.

yep, that one is good.

see if you can do a HICAS diagnostic. it should be able to narrow it down for you. but by the sounds of it, its leaning towards being your vehical speed sensor. it tells the car that its moving and to bump up the pressure to the powersteering system, and it is also needed for HICAS to function. if you just throw a HICAS lock bar in i'd say you'll still be stuck with heavy steering. but yeah, start by doing the HICAS diagnostic and see what it says, there is a tutorial on how to do this in the tut section.

i wouldn't have said any of those things. i'd be looking at the factory boost solinoid. it may be on it way out and playing up. or it already has the 'high' boost mod done on it, where you ground out one of the wires, and the grounded wire hasn't got a good ground connection.

lol, yeah i didn't leave them on. just wanted to see how they looked.

its the clutch throwout/thrust bearing. its a gear box out job, the bearing itself isn't expensive but the labour might be.

was at my brothers on the weekend and he had some rims sitting there that i had to trial fit. they are Work Meisters 18" x 10" wide with -3 offset. tyres were 245 40 r18. on the stock suspension they fit, but did hang out of the guard a little bit did the front only, the rears were - 20 offset on an even wider rim.

i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow. might be something worth looking into.

no safc2 doesn't do ignition timing, none of the safc's do. emanage would be the better option as it has way more features, but it all depends on if you can find someone to tune it. you need the link cable and software to tune an emanage. safc is an easy install, like 7 wires. emanage, unless you get the plug in harness, is like 30.

mine don't either. when i looked at the bulbs that were in there they were a 5w globe, and the biggest i've been able to find in the shops is 1.2w. i'm going to keep an eye out for the 5w ones and see if the + and - light up with them.

there will be a plug about 300mm from the steering column that comes from the ignition barrel. plug in turbo timer looms usually get plugged in here. have you got a pic of the turbo timers loom. it should have two plugs on it for you to be able to do this. otherwise you will need to wire it in.

drivers side, open the cover where the fuses are, and the plug should be just above the fuse panel. and yes the cable will work.

yep. sounds like BS to me. i found i had iridiums in my stagea(neo engine same as 34) from complience. and they ran fine for ages, until i changed them out for coppers. if the car is running fine just leave them in there until you do the next service on it, thats what i did.

both will run fine without a tune.

what ignitor are you using? the Microtech LT-12S requires that you use an external ignitor setup (i mean external to the ecu).

from memory it was around $350, i cant remember the exact price. i got the receipt at home, i'll have a look for it later when i get home. and that was for rear window, drivers side and passenger side door windows and both the little quarter glass bits on an R32 Coupe. it also came with some sort of warranty.

have you checked for vacuum leaks, and that you have spark out of each coil? if its a dead coil you'd be seeing fuel smoke because its missing and not igniting all the fuel. if you have and they were ok, is it running rich because of the tune on the power fc. if its your tune that is too rich than you will be fouling the plugs causing it to run like crap. how have you got the IAC line tapped into the silicon elbow? just curious on how its sealed and clamped.

it will only come on once the engine water temp reaches a certain point. just to help get the air flowing through the a/c and the radiator on hot days.

when was the last time you put decent fuel in it? have you setup the power fc to use the Z32? i can also see a breather line that isn't plumbed in anywhere. also where does the IAC valve get its main air feed from? it looks like you have it going to the silicon elbow.

some of them dont have the screw. you can do a diagnostic via the consult plug by crossing two of the pins, i dont know which ones off the top of my head, there is a write up in the tut secsion. or even easier with a consult cable and software. when you flick the car to "on" check to see if the eccs relays switch. they are a little bit further up the ecu loom. two green relays. if the ecu is completely toast they wont switch as they get there signal from the ecu.

MT-8 has to be tuned via a hand controller. the LT-8 can be tuned by a hand controller or a laptop. if you have a MT-8 you can send it back to Microtech and they can upgrade it for you so it can be tuned with a laptop.

i got the tint on my 32 done at Express Tinting on ipswich rd, the one thats apart of the matilda servo. the bloke in there did an excellent job, one piece for the rear window (i couple of the places i spoke to about tint said they may have to use a split piece on the rear window)

looped on one of the mounting bolts for the ignitor.

anomaly: no, the signal wire is a -ve switched wire. the signal wire wont be grounded when on low boost and when it switches to high boost the ecu grounds the signal wire. also you are probably getting a slight amount of boost kreep in the higher rpm range due to the increased flow you have given the turbo by installing a larger dump and front mount.