QWK32

i dont know for sure but i would think they would be interchangeable. they look identical except for the colour. there also wouldn't be any reason why you couldn't use a coupe dash in a 4 door, there are no extra warning lights for the 4 door. or any reason a 2wd dash wouldn't work in a 4wd, you would just have to make sure that all the appropriate bulbs were in place e.g. the 4wd bulb.

the LTX-12S has built in ignitors, the LT-12S doesn't. so if your coils have built in ignitors and you get the LTX-12S you will need to get some coils that don't.

the blue face dash's are the older first model 32s, the grey face ones are the newer model 32's.

and if you are using the RB25 coils, your wouldn't be using S2 coils with a RB20 ignitor pack would you? what series rb25 is it?

that sensor doesn't go to the ecu. just used to light up the light on the dash. if you dont want the light on the dash to light up you could disconnect it, but you said that the car starts to feel sluggish, is it possible you have something restricting the exhaust, i would have said collapsed cat but you got that changed, maybe something stuck in a muffler?

are you sure its a misfire, and not a rough idle issue?

what software are you using to connect to the ECU? also i had to setup my usb convertor to COM Port 1 so the software i am using could connect.

could be. but i cant say that for sure because i haven't seen your timing light operate, or where you hooked up the inductive pickup. on the cas, what is the position in relation to the slots of the three bolts. are they about in the middle, maybe a bit to the right in the slot? also have you had the cas off recently?

a few of the timing lights i've used, when you put the inductive pickup on the black loop wire at the ignitor gives a double reading. so when it shows 30d BTDC its really 15d BTDC.

exhaust, FMIC, maybe a bit more boost. if you have plans for future mods you will be better going for a PFC. also even on mild mods a PFC will still give a better tune than a SAFC.

on neo engine cars, skyline or stagea, the auto computer is built into the standard ecu. so if you change the std ecu for a PFC the auto wont work, unless you fully manualise the auto. R33's i believe have a separate ecu to controll the auto, so they can get away with changing the std ecu for a PFC if they do abit of work to the auto ie: shiftkit.

is this it? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Car-Performance-Mod...1742.m153.l1262 if it is dont waste your time and money.

if you lower the correction value to take fuel out, the ecu thinks there is less airflow and doesn't inject as much fuel, which also makes the ecu not add as much ignition timing. if you raise the correction value to add more fuel, the ecu thinks your flowing more air so it adds more fuel, which also inadvertantly adds more timing. nothing to worry about though. not unless your at -50% correction on the fuel map at full throttle, which wont be the case. lots of people run AFC's and don't have a problem. keep in mind the AFC is only really good for a mild modded setup.

they aren't needed for it to run, alot of people don't use them with the microtech, unless you got a plug and play one. but they can be wired in and set up on a wire in model.

it may have run fine for weeks until you put the frount mount on. which adds abit of restriction to the airflow.

1 10" thermo fan? is that all. i was running 2 10" thermos and was still overheating in peak hour traffic. switched to a big 16" single and didn't have a problem after that. also have you got the fan running the right way?

that one will work. i had a couple of different ones that worked in my 32. one of them was that number, with the MEC-213 chip and the other had a MEC-126 chip. both worked fine in my 92 model R32 with RB20DET manual. the ones with the MEC-213 chip are the newer model ones, around 92 models.

how did you check your timing? lack of power and turbo spooling up at low rpm can be the timing is retarded.

all i know about the door switch is, as you probably already know, when the door is opened the switch moves out and it grounds the wire on the back of it to the chasis. i'd say your right in thinking that one of the door switch wires either has, damaged insulation and is grounding itself out somewhere. or the connection for the alarm wasn't re-insulated properly and is grounding itself. to check if its one of the door switch lines that is grounding out. when you have the problem, pull the door switch out and use a multimeter set up for a continuity test, and test between the wire at the back of the switch to the chasis. if you get continuity then that line is grounding out somewhere. then just trace the wire back and see if you can find where.

yep. same position. attached to the drivers side suspension tower, at the back near the fire wall, down under the inlet plenum.

have you set up and are you using the right settings in the SAFC for the throttle?

mine come with a pre muffler out to a cannon. nice sound, not too loud at all, well under the legal db level. i dont think there will be much difference in the loudness between the two, maybe just a slightly different tone to the note because of the different materials they are made of.

it will be your thrust/throwout bearing. it seems unusual that you would get a new clutch installed and they didn't change the throwout bearing.

The HI-Power Silent is a full 'shine' grade stainless, 304. The HI-Power 409 is made from an exhaust grade stainless, 409. so not shiny, the cannon at the end is, but not the pipes. the HI-Power Silent usually retails for around $100 extra as well. i have a HI-Power 409 in my stagea and am very happy with it. very good quality, no drama installing it, eveything lined up perfectly.

don't go off the vacuum line fitting on the compresser housing, when i've put rb25 turbo's onto R32's i've tapped a hole there to bo able to do this, so i'd think that other people would also do this. the two turbo's are almost identical in physical size so the only way to really tell is to pull off the compressor housings off both turbos and compare the compressor wheels, the RB25 one is slighly larger. or do what CEF11E has said, the RB20 turbo elbow wont bolt onto a RB25 turbo without modification, and even then the flange face on the elbow is smaller than the flange face on the turbo.