QWK32

I can't remeber what the stagea hazard switch is like, I did figure it out when I put my alarm in but that was a while ago. Going off that diagram (I saw it's not a stagea one) but you would interrupt pin 4 on the hazard switch, the wire labeled "W". It would have to be done at the switch so as not to interfere with the normal turn signals. If you cant figure it out I can have a look at mine when I finish work in a couple hours and let you know which one to switch. One small issue might be if you have an alarm wired like mine, I used my hazard signal to flash the indicators when the car was armed/disarmed. Might end up disabling this if that wire is switched.

lol, any idea if the VQ will run into any issues with the high pressure? i've had a few cooler pipes pop off at 22psi, no big deal, but i'd start getting worried at 30psi on my unopened RB lol. keen to see the results, thats with the GTX?

is that still on the unopened 25 scott?

thats right. S2's are also consult the same as the S1's, and R34's, and R33's etc etc. Simon, the S2's fault codes and how to retrieve them are the same as the R34 RB25 Neo's. are you looking to pull the codes from you S14? if you have the consult plug wired up, and the engine check light too, you can use the "paperclip method" to bridge out the two pins to get the error code to flash out on the dash. otherwise you can use any consult lead and software to check them i.e. Nistune, ECUTalk, Nissan Datascan, Tecu etc. this also depends on a consult plug being hooked up.

My knowledge of Trust turbo sizing isn't great but I think you'll find the 25g to be a better match to the GT3076. It will come down what power your after, the 20g will run out of puff well before the 25g but it will be more responsive. The 25g is fairly responsive anyway, my brother is using a kando dynamics TD06-25g on a 1JZ (2.5l) and it comes on boost about 3000-3500rpm. Something else to think about, I don't know if the TD series turbos come with a T3 style exhaust mount option. The few I have seen have all had a 3 bolt "triangle" flange which would means you will need an after market exhaust manifold. The GT30 has a T3 flange and will bolt onto the stock manifold. As for the comparison between the two I can't comment, finding GT30 results is easy on this forum, not too many people using TD series turbos anymore.

Stock is more like 200hp/150kw. So you've got a descent increase over that. If you can get the boost control issue sorted I think you'll be happy. Most larger aftermarket turbos don't come into their own until up around the 20psi area.

Any ideas as to why the turbo is dropping boost? I mean apart from the turbo is crap. I had a similar problem, turned out to be the cat was too restrictive and choking the exhaust flow. 306hp is a good result for 14psi though.

My brother was running one of the HKS ebc's, but an older model one, it was a little bit involved to set up, had to do a handful of runs so the unit had a baseline of the wastegate to go off, then you had to do more runs to set your desired boost level. I'm running 22psi, but not on a greddy. I would have picked up a profec b spec 2 but they were about $700 when I was looking. What are they going for at the moment?

Gizzmo MS-IBC. They are fairly cheap to buy and a great little unit, I'm running one in my car and very happy with it.

when you say it cuts out do your mean it just feels like its being held back, or the engine literally cuts out for a second? if it just feels like its holding back you could be onto something with the bov, possibly leaking? faulty AFM will cause poor performance as hugh mentioned. if your getting a full engine cut it could be a faulty map sensor causing the ecu to think you've over boosted. i'm in brissy and have a stock bov your welcome to have (for free) if you want to come and get it. i've also got a consult cable and software i can hook up to the ecu and have a look at what all the sensors are doing. let me know if your keen, i'm in Cannon Hill (south side).

Sold

pm sent...

For Sale, Jaycar IEBC electronic boost controller. This was one of those DIY kits, not built by myself i purchased it already made. it is in perfect working order and i used it for over a year. Also included is a boost solenoid (from S2 stagea, NEO motor) and a needle valve. The IEBC setup requires a very small "exhaust" hole in one of the lines, the manual says to solder the end of a T-piece and drill a very small hole in the solder, the needle valve is a lot less stuffing around for the same result. Item is located in Brisbane (Cannon Hill), pickup is fine as is posted. PM me or reply in this thread, thanks. $100 ono postage extra

i got my S2 RS4-V in feb 08. 59k on the clock.

I agree with Iain, get under the hood and start checking electrical plugs and sensors. The first things I'd check would be injectors/fuel supply, coils, CAS, and ECU. If any of the other sensors are faulty, including the AFM, the engine will still start and run, albeit like a bag of crap. Is it possible an alarm/immobilizer system is stuffing with key systems? Also S2 neo motors have solid lifters so no need to worry about them bleeding out.

If its airflow cut you'll know when you hit it. It's a complete engine cut, feels like the throttle got slammed closed and the engine revs down. By the way S1's don't have a boost cut, no way for the ecu to know the boost pressure. Has it always felt this way? Or just recently? The stock setups on all rb's is fairly restrictive especially the exhaust, and the stock mapping doesn't favor consistent pull through the rev range, they tend to flatten out around 4500rpm.

I think the biggest problem with stagea fuel pump upgrading is everyone goes into the job expecting a cradle like the skylines and it's not, it's a holder/box on the bottom of the tank. I know i did, and I was like WTF when I opened the tank and there was no lift out cradle. it also took me a little while to figure out how to get the top of the holder to get to the fuel pump, didn't help that my tank was about a 3rd full. Also to anyone that said walbro are too much of a stuff around to fit you obviously haven't trying to fit one to a S2 stagea before. If I laid a stock pump next to a GSS-342 you would hardley notice a difference. Inlet/outlet sizes are the same, electrics are the same, physical size is the same. Steven, if you have a nistuned ecu that already has the Z32 afm swap done on it, and you swap your afm to the Z32 and use that ecu it should start and run. It wont be perfect but enough to know that it works. Nistune does a good job at resizing the values on afm swaps. When I did mine it was a little bit out, it was rich, I had to drop the kconst a little bit to get it running stoich. Unless you have a wideband to check it I wouldn't drive it around.

Is yours a factory auto or manual Curt? R34 GTR offset, +30 on a 9" rim, is ok on an auto. That's what I'm running. The +30 is good for the rears, they sat out a bit at stock ride height but once lowered they tucked in nicely for a flush fitment with the guard. The front though could really do with sitting out about 20-25mm more. The +30 looks ok but I think a +5 or +10 would be better suited up front, it would get the rim to sit flush with the guard.

Yes it will, I'm using a blatz cable, mine is the 9pin serial plug version and I run it with a Belkin USB -> Serial adapter. Works fine, I've never had an issue with it not connecting or dropping out. If the vac line has poped off the boost sensor it won't throw an error. You must have a faulty unit. Don't worry about it though, once you get nistune just turn it off and disable DTCs from it.

Have you unplugged the sensor or removed it completely? Ecu will throw this fault if the sensor is unplugged.

Man that sucks. Did it let go on the dyno? Edit: never mind, just got your pm...

I'm using the 342, no issues at all fitting it, electrical plug is even the same as the nissan one. I believe the only difference between the 2 is the inlet and outlet are inline on the 342 where as the 341 thet are on opposite sides. Flow rates/performance is the same for both pumps though.

Yeah done, went and got my 1/2" impact bar from work today and had it off in no time. I had the coolant system flushed out about a year ago so I'm not to worried about it. I wasn't keen on removing the radiator because I didn't want to deal with the auto fluid lines going into it. I managed to lift the radiator up enough to see if the rattle gun would fit. No good, the AC coil is still in the way.

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods. I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol. A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.