QWK32

just take the feed from any of the lights in the cabin. the cigarette lighter light would be a good spot.

i think he is talking about the blower unit for the aircon vents in the car, not thermo fans in the engine bay. and to me it sounds like the fan in your blower unit is shagged.

yep, you got it. you try to get the overall diameter the same by using a smaller profile on bigger rims. use a tire size calculator like this: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html it will tell you what the overall diameters are, also what you actual speedo reading will be with the new rims and tires at 100kph

where abouts in QLD are you?

yes they have a stock bov, usually muffled down by the airbox. the climb in boost is probably the stock boost solinoid, which switches to a higher boost setting when you get higher in the revs. stock its 5psi then to 7psi. with the boost tee in there it sounds like you have wound the initial boost up to 10psi, then when the boost solinoid switches your getting 13psi. bypass the stock boost solinoid then set the boost level. although, i wouldn't recommend running anymore than stock boost with a stock exhaust. all the jerking and "juddering" would be air flow cut. running anything above 10psi, which your getting when it climbs to 13psi, you can max out the airflow meter causing the engine to feel like its cutting in and out.

stagea's didn't come from the factory with a towing option. as some of the others have said, i have herd of a winter option pack which included heated windscreen wipers, to make it easier to clear the snow and frost away i guess. the button beside the headlight adjustment could be for this?

there is only 5 - 6mm difference in the diameter between the two sizes anyway. it probably wouldn't effect it if you left the 4WD on anyway.

yep. where it attaches to the top of the clutch pedal there is some adjustment. in the pic: the blue line is the firewall. the red arrow is pointing to where it attaches to the clutch pedal. the yellow arrow is the nut you have to undo to be able to screw the shaft which gives you your adjustment. just make sure that after you make the adjustment your clutch fully disengages.

here's a pic

lol. i'm in the same boat as you at the moment. over the last few weeks i've been sizing them up to see what changes are needed and this is one of them. i've read on here that 33 calipers bolt straight onto S1 stagea's, is yours a S2, mine is, and it wont bolt straight up. The Stagea bolt is a fine thred M14 and the R33 a fine thred M12 (i haven't put a thred gauge on it yet to check the pitch). I've been looking at two options. 1. Drill and Tap the R33 caliper out to M14, it looks as though there is enough meat in the threded inset to do this, need to check properly though. 2. Turn up a small sleave in the lathe that will take the hole in the Stagea Hub for the caliper down to 12mm so the caliper locates properly. if i do this i'm sure i'll need longer bolts aswell. sorry i dont have a definate answer of "this is what to do", but just a couple of ideas i've been looking into.

how long did it take for them to do the rebuild? When the one in my 32 started leaking i need the replacement ready to go as my car was my daily driver, thats why i went for a new item.

^^^ link ems (engine management system) is an aftermarket ecu. and i think he is talking about an R33. just get a R33 stock turbo and put it on, run 13-14psi through it (wont be a problem on an RB20), get the car tuned and see what power output you get. if your worried about turbo clearance issues with the R33 turbo, dont. there is almost no external physical size differance in the two turbos (R32 and R33) its the internals of the R33 turbo that are bigger. if you still dont get the power your after then get the turbo hiflowed. but i dont think you will see much change from 3500 to 4000rpm for full boost, even on a stock R33 turbo, which isn't that bad at all really.

you said you fitted a new dump pipe? have you checked to see if the wastegate flap isn't hitting on the inside of the new dump pipe. if it is it wont be opening all the way and causing your boost to climb.

yep. just out of interest what are the tyre widths and profiles on the 17's, and on the 16's? they might not have a big rolling diameter difference anyway.

yep, its the clutch master cylinder. the cost of a brand new genuine nissan item is around the $120 - $130 mark, i dont know about the cost for a rebuild and the clutch pedal squeak is the clutch fork pivot ball. there are a few threds about how to grease it to stop the squeak.

On the 32's you just have to pull the fuse and the 4WD is disabled, so different to the 33GTR that you have to pull out the front drive shaft. As long as the rolling diameter of the wheel with the tire is the same on both you will be ok.

spotted a black S2 in the carpark at Jamboree at willowbank on saturday. and a white S1 when i was leaving, i gave you a wave.

mine doesn't lock itself once you've been in the car. but if i unlock the car with the factory keyless entry and don't open any of the doors, after about a minute it locks itself again. maybe there is a fault with your central locking unit?

they're pritty much the same thing, PS is metric horse power and HP is imperial horse power. PS x .9863 = HP

could be maxing out your AFM. or if you have the stock rubber pipe from the AFM to the turbo, that can suck closed causing a restriction.

why dont you go and get youself a threaded female nipple in mild steel and weld that to the pipe, then get you brass vacuum line fitting (if it has a male threaded end on it) and screw it into that? or just get a steel vacuum fitting.

i remember seeing a few threds start about problems since the server change, and that the admins are working through getting the site back to normal. Users galleries were one of the issues, something about merging the galleries together or something. p.s. mine is the same.

as the other guys have said brazing is the best. you can tig weld brass but i dont think you will have great success tiging it to mild steel. what are you trying to joint together, i mean what are the parts, is it like a vacuum line nipple to intercooler piping or something?

I = Iridiums. F = M14 x 1.25mm thred, 19mm reach R = Resistor. 6 = Heat Range. T = Unsure of the excact feature but it is a Design Feature of the Plug. 11 = Gap. Try using a BCPR6ES-11 or a BKR6ES-11 they match all the specs of the iridiums but as coppers. the only differance between the two is the distance from the gasket to the top terminal is 2.5mm shorter on the BK plug.

low impedance, then yes you will.