QWK32

yeah mate, i got one. i can have a go at getting it out of the shell tomorrow or sunday if you want. it was in good working order. where you located?

http://ecu.gt28.ru/index.php?page=23 and go down to Laurel C33. it matches the chip/rom number.

mine stays on for a couple of seconds after the car is started but not 30. usually only like 2 seconds.

you will care if your pushing the limit of the standard turbo, or any turbo for that matter. in then end you want your turbo producing the desired level of boost, and all the pipes and intercooler to have little effect on the overall pressure, you want the system to be the least restricting it can be, ie: using quality coolers with low pressure drop ratings.

is there anyway you could have accidently damaged the solinoid or the electrical plug to it. the solinoid in the AAC valve is whats buzzing, i know they can do this if they are stuffed or don't have a good electrical connection. or if the pulse frequency isn't right, which could only change if you have an aftermarket ecu and changed it.

noisey how, like buzzing?? have you gone over all the bolts just to make sure.

no. lets say you do put it on the cold pipe, eg: say you loose 1psi through your cooler, and you boost controller is set to 12psi, your turbo will actually be making 13psi, because of the pressure drop. you want your boost controller seeing the pressure that the turbo is making, thats why you put it on the hot side fairly close to the turbo.

R33 GTST are 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears. Stagea capilers are only 2 piston fronts and 1 piston rears, so probably the same as what you already have in a N/A

if it hasn't caused a problem or any powersteering fluid leaks you could leave it plugged in. it looks like the loom for the solinoid on that valve, somebody was probably just being overcautious when putting the lock bar in. when i put a hicas lock bar in my old 32 i didn't unplug anything in the engine bay, and never had a problem.

By doubled up pulley i think yoy mean the Harmonic Balancer, and its actually got 3 belts that drive off it. the P/S, the A/C, and the Alternator. and yes, the power steering belt runs back to it.

nah, two belts mate, one for P/S and one for A/C. the 4PK945 sounds right for the P/S.

sure will.

yeah sorry, up and right (i edited my original post so its correct). the Sensor number is for what kind of airflow meter / Map sensor you have. So, for all skylines/stageas with RB engines running stock AFM's it is 04 04, except for GTR's which is 03 03. if you have a Z32 or Q45 Afm it is different. eg, for a Z32 you need to set it at HW 02 in and 04 out. 02 is the Z32 afm code, so you are inputing a 02 type afm signal but want an 04 type afm signal for your RB engine ECU. and the different Sensor Calc numbers are for multiple AFM applications or for running 1 AFM on a multiple AFM ecu. so for non-GTR RB engines it is 1 afm signal in and 1 afm signal out, or 01 01.

yeah, if you want to reset the safc you can. or if you think the settings are correct and just want your mixtures to be unaltered you could go into the correction maps and set all the values to zero. on page 60 of the manual you used from that website, is how to do the initialization (reset) just in etc. and scroll down to initialization. to just set all the correction maps to zero go into "Setting" and in Hi-Thrtl and Lo-Thrtl set all and values on the map to zero. if you do the initialization, which is what i would do. the settings you need to set to get the car to run are: go into etc. Sensor Type -> Sensor No: HW and 04 in and 04 out Sensor Calc: 01 in and 01 out Car Select -> 6 Cyl, and the Thr is the arrow pointing up and to the right. Dont worry about Dec-Air and on Pg 30 is how to do the Knock Setup. Just so it displays the correct value, not needed to run the car though, you could get the tuner to set this up for you if you want.

yeah, i would say its your battery. when you crank it it drains all the current and when you stop cranking the alarm thinks the power has been disconnected and then reconnected and goes off.

is that an alarm light flashing on the bottom right of the dash surround?

first of all without a pic of the diagram on the side of the relay, all we can go off is what the pinout of a relay should be. and also from the diagram the only way it will work is if the thermostat (sender) is a Normally Closed switch, switching ground. - the way its wired there, if the switch is on (purple wire fed +ve), and the thermostat is below its switching temp, the fan wont run, untill it reaches its switching temp. - if the switch is turned off (purple wire not fed anything) but the thermostat is at switching temp, it wont run. must be so you can turn the fan off anytime you want. - you need the switch on and the thermostat at its switching temp for the fan to run. but it should switch off below a certain temp. so... from what you have described is happening i would say that your thermostat (sender) has shit itself and isn't and sending the ground signal to the white relay once your water temp goes below its set temp. you need 2 relays so you can use a manual switch to "override" the thermo fan from running it you want. it does seem like a wierd way to wire it but looks like its the way it has to be with the temp sender your using.

yeah, the N6-B diagram.

get a piggyback or full aftermarket ecu and have it tuned. the stock nissan ecus are tuned to run rich when you floor it.

in the NGK books i think they recommend 5's for the RB engines, but they can be too hot and cause issues. most people run 6's, some people run 7's, depending on the setup.

i'm assuming you mean what gap to use, and 0.8mm gap is a good starting point.

for the PF, P means its a platinum plug and F is the thred type. The BC and BK plugs are coppers. this chart is easier to understand

lighter on the foot and quiter engagement.

if its the same as a vl commodore i have a manual rb30e ecu that i'm willing to get rid of.

first thing is check the switches are plugged in properly. with the 32 the major problem with windows not working properly is the Power Window Relay, which is located under the driverside doorcard to the rear of the door. a small black rectanglular box. they are easy to swap over and only cost around $20-$30 from the wreakers for a working one.