QWK32

when you open the remotes case, is there a little pot you can turn? if so, try turning it a little bit in one directions to see if it starts working, if not try it in the other direction. the frequency might be off just a tad.

what pressure is the sard reg set to? and is the reg on the return line? did you put in a new fuel filter?

probably a fault with the vehical speed sensor, maybe fried it when you jump started. as i understand it, when your at idle and not going anywhere a solinoid switches the powersteering pump into a low pump mode so it doesn't bog the engine down, once you start moving it swiches the pump to full. if you speed sensor if playing up the pump wont be switching into full mode hense the heavy stearing. try doing a ecu diagnostic and HICAS diagnostic and see if you get an error code. there is info on this in the tutorial section. or if you know someone with a consult cable get them to check for you.

its probably an autotimer that sets its self to what time it thinks should be used. what is the model of the timer, you may need to find a manual for it and see how to set it to manual time instead of autotimer.

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the series 1 still has two plugs, they just aren't both apart of the TPS body, one is on a short length of cable coming out the bottom of the TPS.

that is the throttle on off switch. just lets the ecu know when the throttle butterfly is open. what ecu are you running?

how big were you thinking? safc will handle larger injectors aslong as they're not too big.

no, you need the speedo cable to drive the factory gauge so the hicas ecu operates properly and your powersteering returns to normal.

Climate Control and Turbo Timer Harness Sold

yep. your speedo cable is broken or the square drive pin is rounded off. they are around $100 from nissan (when i did the one on my 32 about a year ago).

CD DIN brackets sold.

Both the Dash Vents are Sold

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Short Shifter Sold.

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Power Window Relay Sold.

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mine wasn't on the thermo, if it was i would have left it there. maybe GTRs are in a different spot because of the stock FMIC.

the kit should have come with gaskets. they are the same shape as the flanges. thats all you need to use to join them up.

Should be M12 x 1.25mm

yeah, around that. keep in mind that you dont check the oil level as soon as you tip the oil in, you have to wait a minute or so for it to settle in the sump to get a correct level reading.

this is the front AC temp sensor. if you have a front mount it would have been moved. i remember from when i put a front mount in my 32 that sensor what in the way. i cant remember exactly which side but from memory i think it was close to the bonnet latch. i'm not to sure about the other sensors. i know one is in the cabin next to the ash tray, and i think the other is in the a/c lines somewhere.

also, make sure you drain the oil through the sump plug before removing the oil filter, to minimize oil spilling everywhere. the oil filter is easy enough to get to on the 32 from the top, try unscrew it with you hands first, if its on tight and you need an oil filter wrench thats when it can get fiddley. the oil filter will still be full of oil, so once you unscrew it try to tip it upright so it doesnt spill everywhere. and before you put the new oil filter on, dip your finger in some of the oil and put a smear of it around the oil filter seal.