QWK32

safc doesnt interact with the injectors, well not directly anyway. it plays with the MAF signal to trick the ecu into adjusting the fuel mixtures. if it was a problem with the safc you would see overfueling/underfueling on all the cylinders, not just one.

you can get blanking bits to put in the hose, or a rubber blanking bit that slips over the steel pipe. or there are the ghetto options, i have seen C size batteries and coke bottle lids use before.

yeah, injector 6 may be stuck open, or coil/plug for number 6 isn't firing. it sounds like there was that much fuel in the cylinder you got hydraulic lock, thats why it turned over once and stopped. and no, the safc wont be the problem as its only happening to one cylinder.

do you have apexi gauges. it may be a controller for the gauges.

search for Xanavi on these forums, you should find something.

oil breathers, the back pipe that goes from the fitting on the plenum to the black fittings that are on the top of the engine, on the cam covers, then to the intake. aac valve feed. the 20-25mm pipe at the back of the engine that usually goes on a fitting just before the throttle body on the stock pipe. without this your cars idle wont be stable.

there are quite a few different add-ons for the dayz edition, the most common ones are, different front bar and rear bar, different rear wing. Some of the rarer ones are carbon fibre replacement parts. i remember seeing a pamphlet that some body posted up in the stagea section with all the different DAYZ mods you can get.

what differences are you looking for? like between S1 and S2. or the different S2 models. my car didn't come with a manual either, but you should be able to find out what your after on here.

probably not a good idea to drive it around if you think its fuel. does the engine sound like its missing, then it could point to a dodge coil? or it could be just overfueling, what ecu are you running? if you have you been cranking the engine lots without running it, you could have fuel in the oil. dump some of the oil and check it out. btw. one complete turn of the cas fires all cylinders. one turn of the cam is two turns of crank. all cylinders have fired after one cycle of the cam or two cycles of the crank.

pull the coil pack out, leave it plugged in, put a spark plug in it, earth the body of the spark plug out on the engine and crank it over, you should see it spark. if not, have a real good look at the wiring, use a multimeter and test continuity between the coil plug and the ecu pinout for any breakdown of the cable. if it does fire, check that the fuel injector for that cylinder is firing, no fuel could also cause this. if the coil isn't firing and all the cabling check out it might work out cheaper to send the unit to microtech and get it repaired.

as blind_elk has said, see if the problem to stays on cylinder 4 when you swap some coilpacks over. if it does, have a better look at the wiring and plug to that coil, there may be something you missed first time checking, and even if the electrical plug looks ok it could be broken down inside. if that still checks out ok, look at the microtech, you said you have the LTX12S, would i be correct in saying this model has built in ignitors? maybe the ignitor for cylinder 4 is fried?

no power. regardless if the relay is a normally open or normally closed relay once you pull it out of its socket the circuit is broken.

I have most of the interior parts for a R32 GTST. i will be adding more parts up once i pull them out. Most of the bigger stuff i am only willing to do pickup, or i can deliver if its not to far out of my way and for a small fee. If you want anything not on my list shoot my a pm and i'll see if i have it. Center Dash Vent ~ $60 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) the vent is in good condition over all. the front surrond is in one piece and all the clips are intact. the only thing wrong with it is one of the horizontal fins has broken off the adjustment bit. it still sits straight and you can adjust it with your finger so it sits straight. See pic. Passenger Dash Vent ~ $25 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) this vent is in ok. the the vertical deflector parts have broken off the adjustment bit. the surround is in one piece but the two bottom clips that hold it onto the vent body are broken. but even with them broken it still sat ok in the rest of the dash. See the pics for more detail. R32 Turbo Timer Loom Universal ~ $15 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) This loom plugs in between where the ignition barrel plugs in and the main loom. about 200mm from the ignition barrel. Saves you from cutting into you original loom. R32 Double Din Cd Player Mounting Brackets ~ $10 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) the two brakets that let you mount a cd player and other din mountable equipment. R32 Digital Climate Control ~ $50 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) Standard R32 digital climate control, good condition, all buttons work and unit itself works fine. Comes with the plastic front cover and i can also include the electrical plugs with some of the loom if you want. R32 Drivers Side Window Controlls ~ $50 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) the drivers side controlls for the windows and mirrors, all the switches and controlls working. Power Window Relay ~ $25 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) The black box located under the door card on the drivers side door that controll both the drivers side and the passenger side window functions. Its out of a 32 but i think a few of the nissan models are the same (S13, R33 maybe). R32 Instument Cluster ~ $100 (pick up only on this item please, for the moment) Grey back GTST, Manual, non-ABS model instrument cluster with 129k on the clock. All gauges worked fine and cluster and all mounts are in good condition. R32 Projector Style GTST Passenger Side Headlight ~ $100 (pick up only on this item please, for the moment) Headlight in good condition, no damage to glass or mounts. EBAY Job Short Shifter ~ $25 (i am willing to post this item, at buyers expense) as it says it an ebay bought C's style short shifter. i had this in my r32 for a couple of months. the little white bush fits in the g/box well. More to come.

no need to disconnect any sensors or move the cas, you don't want to be moving the cas unless you have a timing light to check the setting. disconnect the battery, step on the brake pedal a few times (this is just to use you brake lights to use up any residual current). thats it, just reconnect the battery and your all done.

you wont notice a difference in overall power. but there will be a difference in the low down power. so if it is working properly you will have slightly more power at say 3000rpm with it plugged than you would if you unplug it. best way to look at this is to do a dyno run with it plugged in and one with it unplugged. then overlap the printouts of the two runs to see where it slight gain is.

with the car at operating temp probe both the knock sensor signal wires with a multimeter, the one with the highest reading is the one to use. i have set these up on a couple of rb20dets and its always been knock signal line 1.

dont know how much it costs to get rebuilt, i just got a new clutch master cylinder when mine started leaking. around $100 and about 30min of my own time.

Peel P50, like on top gear the other week. should go alright

no, set it up so it is pulling air through the radiator and mount it on the engine side.

also from what i can tell injector outputs 4 and 6 are swaped around on the rb25det ecu compared to the rb20det ecu.

as simon has said above. 6 Cylinders, Throttle arrow pointing up and to the right, Sensor type Hotwire 4 & 4, Sensor Calc 1 in & 1 out. to do the Throttle learn just follow the prompts. i think you start off without your foot on the pedal and then push it all the way down and press the set button, the last few i have setup have been the neo's and they have a better setup mode. to do the knock setup you get the car to running temp, go into the knock setup. then it asks you to hold the engine revs to like 1000rpm, then press set. then highlight the 3000rpm (or is it 3500rpm, i cant remember) then hold it at that rpm and press the set button. all done.

the coilpack plugs are the same but i'm not sure about the plug for the ignitor.

what is the numbers on the ecu? or can you post up a picture of the sticker on the ecu. the 10 digit number and MEC -XXXX number.

have you thought of the fact that you are using BK plugs instead of BCP plugs. BK plugs are 2.5mm short than BCP plugs and might not be making a good connection up in the coilpack. the BCP plugs are the right size for a good contact on RB20 coilpacks