QWK32

if its like a humming sort of noise that is coming from the front of the engine, it could be that your timing belt is too tight.

a minispool will last longer than you will be able to put up with it in a daily driver, all that constant wheel chirping and clunking and from the rear gets to you after a while. and yes, i tightly shimmed LSD will give you pritty much the same result as a minispool.

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ i personally haven't bought anything of them but have heard good things. they occasionally pop up on ebay. or you could try a few of the SAU traders, some of them deal in the emanage. Nengun also have them. also keep in mind that if you manage to find a download for the software, as i believe you still need the greddy brand cable to connect to the emanage.

it can cause vibration. see if you can tell which way it goes on by looking at any scratches and marks and see if you can get them to line up.

yeah mate. it will be ok.

just swap them over now. nothing to worry about, you dont need a tune to put new coilpacks in.

there could be gear oil leaking out of the rubber seal that sits over the shifter and the round bit of the top of the g/box. the same thing happend to me, i had a small split in the seal.

best option is the plumb back. no bov and the engine can lean out too far when you back off and can stall, atmo bov and your engine can richen up too much and may stall.

airflow cut / boost cut. do a search on these. its a common problem with running higher boost on a stock ecu. turn the boost down a bit and it should stop doing it.

nah, 32's only have the one, at the cluster. they have a cable driven speedo.

i know some people use the exhaust gas temp displayed on a gauge as a rough sign of what the afr's are doing, its an old school way though.

for which knock signal to use. get a multimeter (a decent one) and with the engine running and up to temp probe both the knock signal wires. the one that is outputting the highest voltage is the one to use.

the shinny bit underneath the cat is a heat sheild.

go to the wreckers and get a din pocket. i remember reading that a pulsar one fits.

where are you located mate, i may have the gear boot clip and din bracket your chasing.

i've bought an x-force hiflow cat before and it had the mounting hole. and all that sensor is for is the exhaust temp warning light on the dash.

there are quite a few cars out there with the same style of clamping bracket. i'd go to the wreckers until i found one the same length.

you will also need the cable to plug into it. greddy recommends that you use the genuine item, i haven't herd of anyone using a generic one and it working. try looking on ebay or nengun or http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/

nissan.

when you say wiring loom, is that the engine loom aswell, or just the in car loom?

i was actually still hitting full boost (13psi) around 3000 - 3500rpm. so not that laggy, very drive able. i found that it still came on boost around the same time but just kept pulling through the rev range instead of flattening out like the stock 32 turbo does. and Mike, like everyone has said. get a full exhuast setup, put the R34 SMIC on or just get a FMIC kit and put the on, get the ecu chipped or even just a fuel computer like the SAFC in and tuned. set the boost to 12-13psi. definately get a new fuel pump, as yours is 15 years old or older and will probably be on its way out soon (p.s. do the pump before the tune ) stock injectors will be ok on this setup. and as GTST hs said, it should see you around the 180rwkw mark.

not true. R33 series 2 turbos have the nylon compressor wheel also. the R34 turbos actually have more lag due to a slightly bigger exhaust wheel and housing than the R33 one. i've run a series 1 (steel comp wheel) and a series 2(nylon comp wheel) on my 32 when i had it and didn't notice any difference between the two.

if your car still has the HICAS parts on it than you cant.

but at what throttle % is it leaning out at? and how do you know its leaning out? the tune you have described is adding the 8% extra fuel after 50% throttle point. the SAFC will interpolate between the 10% low throttle and 50% hi throttle change over points. so it will slowly increase the % of extra fuel from the set 0% extra at low throttle to the set 8% at hi throttle. e.g at 30% throttle the SAFC may have interpolated a value of 3%. there is no point trying to tune under 10% or low throttle because the car will be in closed loop so the ecu will try and correct itself using readings from the O2 sensor. if you know for sure the car is leaning out take it to another tuner? you should be able to get it if there is no underlying problem like low fuel pressure or maxing out injector duty cylces.

pull a coil out, put a spark plug in the coil, make sure the bottom threded part of the spark plug is touching/grounded out on the engine and give the engine a crank. you may want to unplug the injectors at the main injector plug so you dont waste fuel or put unwanted fuel in the cylinder. also check what the main voltage is? to low and you wont be getting a strong spark. and it wouldn't hurt trying a different ignitor, it'll help you rule something off the list.