QWK32

nah the O2 sensor wont do much. its hard to tell on your video because you don't have a full exhaust yet but it sounds like it might be missing a little bit. have you checked each coil is firing?

the sensor further down the exhuast is just the cat temp sensor and not needed. Have you gone over all the intercooler pipework and vacuum lines for leaks? and the car will still run ok will just a dump pipe.

ok, went out and had a look in my 32 shell and i have the same thing, never noticed it before. so i got looking around in nissan fast. according to fast there is a loom that goes to an antenna in the rear passenger side of all 32's (i have never seen a 32 with an antenna in that spot though). fast also shows an electrical box in the rear passenger side that it calls a Coil/Noise Suppressor linked into the stock audio equipment. i think this is what it is.

i've spotted a white 33 turning into paringa rd (under the gateway) from lytton rd the last couple of mornings just before 6am. got a little sideways this morning. sorry didn't get the plates.

sounds like the IGN should go to an ignition "ON" position wire. the constant power will be so the gauges remember your peak and warning settings and the IGN so they know when to turn on. just find a wire that powers up when you switch the key to "ON" and put the orange wire to it.

around 0.4 volts

the reserviour in the back you were looking for isn't for the hicas its for 4WD. and if you have a R33 the hicas isn't hydrolic, its electric. search for "hicas diagnostic" and do one, it may be able to give you a better idea on whats going on.

what do you mean by drivers window regulator? i may have what your chasing.

i think your talking about the gearbox breather. it should have a little mounting plate at the end so it can bolt up with one of your bellhousing bolts. it doesnt connect to anything.

yeah thats the right boost for a stock R32 turbo, ~10psi. you dont really want to run the stock r32 turbo anything above 13-14psi. to check if its a stock 32 turbo have a look at the compressor housing for a marking "16v". but from what your saying about where the wastegate actuator gets it feed from the compressor housing its a Rb20 turbo. Rb25 turbo takes the wastegate line from the elbow that bolts onto the compressor outfeed. the safc isn't really needed on a fairly stock setup but it wont hurt. it'll help you get better perfomance and fuel consumption than the stock ecu by itself.

nah, if you follow the wiring instructions from apexi, they want you to splice the earth wire for the timer onto an ecu earth. but like you said, there is also another wire for the hand brake.

if its a series 1 R33 motor you'll be able to use them, no modification. series 2 r33 rb25 are different and rb25 neo's are different again.

it could be adjusted on the 2 bolts wrong giving a higher voltage to the ecu at throttle of causing it to idle higher. or the throttle on of switch could be faulty and continually giving a "ON" signal.

as i underdstand it, you buy the donuts in halves, cut them to the angle you want, and weld two halves together to get get a pipe.

it depends on the boost your running. stock rb25 boost and it'll be fine, but wont feel any different to the stock 32 turbo. when i put one on my 32 i wound it up to 13psi and found it was slightly leaning out top end.

like has already been said, check your tps values. the tps could have been moved or not put back on properly when your gaskets where changed.

possibly stuck in the intercooler.

i would get a better reading than just clamping the wiring loom. like blind_elk has said insert a plug lead between the coil and the plug. also make sure you are unplugging the aac valve before take a timing reading, so the engine sits at base idle.

it shows any noise coming from the engine. in particular its looking for detonation/pinging.

it is possible to put the cas on incorrectly and it be out one or two teeth. what timing light are you using? where are you getting the signal from? have you tried a different timing light? if your confident your timing light is reading correctly you could try, unbolting the cas, pull it off, dont turn cas the shaft yet, have a look to see if the half moon shaped locating pin on the end of the cam shaft, is missing or not, if it is there the cas will only go on one way. if its not the cas may have been put back on incorrectly so its out. then with the cas held so the shaft is facing you, turn the cas shaft anti-clockwise a little bit so when it goes back on it is one tooth advanced. then put the timing light back on it again. you may have to move it more teeth to get it right.

pushed up all the way in which direction? the cas turned all the way clockwise is full retard and all the way anti-clockwise is full advance. check this first, if its all the way anti-clockise or full advance then its possible the cas may be one or two teeth out.

it could be faulty. or the electric plug or vacuum line disconnected in the engine bay. its the little black box on the fire wall up the top on the drivers side.

nah, offset wont effect it. as long as you use the same size rim and tire wall height it will be ok.

if you stick you finger in that spot and keep pushing it in further you will feel the pivot ball. thats what you want to grease. you may be able to work it out from this pic http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/clutch__3_.jpg

just tee into the line that feeds the stock boost gauge box. its in the engine bay, on the firewall, in the drivers side corner. its a black box with an electrical plug and a vacuum line going to it. just tee into that vacuum line.