QWK32

nah the car will be ok. just a little rich without a tune.

is it a constant squeak or just as you are pushing the pedal to the floor? if your holding the clutch pedal in and its continually squeaking then its your throw out bearing. if its just as you push the pedal to the floor then it will be what the other guys are on about, a dry pivot ball.

hey mate. i just went out and checked mine, im 99.9% sure its all standard suspension. and a series 2 stagea. these are just quick measurements, i got close to what you said, 390mm front and 380mm rear.

you could try cleaning the afm. just get some contact cleaner and give the probe a good spray. if its still playing up after that i'd open it up and resolder the joints, it a common problem with afm's to have dry joints. have a look in the tutorial section, there is a write up in there about how to do it. and if that doesn't work its time for a new afm.

i went and found it aswell. pritty funny. try this guys http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...cTODAY.m238.lVI

bump, still after one.

dont the auto stagea's run 20 degrees btdc?

pritty common problem with atmo bovs on rb25's. you dont have to get the safc tuned again, but you can use the DEC-AIR feature on the safc to help the ecu cope with the loss of vented air.

yeah. probe into the afm signal in wire on the ecu with a multimeter. you dont need a quick response multimeter, just put it in the gear you want and put you foot down, it helps if you have a peak hold feature on your multimeter. what are you looking for? just checking to see if your afm is maxing out. they are 0-5v reading. but usually anything after 4.5v is maxed out. and yes, you should do this under load to get a reading.

you could also try going to a diesel/truck mechanic or supply place. they might have some oil breather or vacuum hose in larger diameters.

ok, i'll pm you later.

jeeze, they have come a long way since then. the v4s and v4 plus do have closed loop, a/c idle correction and idle control. 16 load points at 125rpm increments up to 16000rpm. so they are a pritty good unit. i've just wired one into a mates car and am in the process of setting it up. PWND, we have been given the number of a guy that will finish the tune if its running/idling and he is supposed to be good at wolfs. if you want a can dig that number up for you. but like i said, he will only touch it if it is already running. let me know.

yeah mate. its the same as the older units. just after you select hotwire, make the "IN" number the number for the z32 (2 i think, just check it in the instructions) and the "OUT" number 4, which is the number for GTST skylines.

yeah, 33 series 1. series 1 turbos have the steel compressor wheel, and series 2 have the nylon/plastic comp. wheel.

that sensor just switches the thermo fan on for the air con when it hits a certain temp. say your sitting in traffic on a hot day and you have the aircon on, the themo fan will turn on.

could also be a fault with the tps or the tps is positioned incorrectly.

your right in saying that it will only go on one way. but if the half moon shape bit/pin on the end of the camshaft is shapped off it will go on anyway. but if the pin was stiill there you should be right. what about the position of the cas bolts in the slots. are they about half way, even a bit to the right in the slot. thats about the spot your after. i think its best you get a timing light on it anyway just to make sure.

yeah id say $300 aswell.

do those 2 relay's have 12v to them? you have to put your own 12v ign "ON" feed to them to get them to switch when you turn the ignition to "ON".

2 or 4 door?

are you sure you put the cas back on correctly? in the same spot and the same tooth. it sounds like you timing is retarded.

the two wire plug if the throttle on off switch. coming out of the bottom of the tps there is a small length of wire into a 3 wire plug, thats the variable signal plug.

check out justjap.com they got some FMIC kits that connect up to the stock pipes they way your describing. and they are at a good price too.

there will be two plugs coming off the side of the manual gearbox. one is the neutral switch and the other is the reverse swich. i cant remember which is which but if you get a multimeter and do a continuity test on the plug and see witch one switches when you put is in reverse. then you need to find the the reverse light signal wire and hook it up.

yeah, or simply 14psi total pressure, but twice as much airflow compaired to a single turbo of the same size.