QWK32

link to Z32 diagram http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297171-z32-upgrade-on-a-s2-stagea/

Problem with the S2's is the little map sensor near the BOV. Sure the stock AFM will max out eventually but the MAP will cut power well before then, mine was cutting out at around 14-15psi. If your not keen on shelling out for a Z32 just get nistune done and disable the factory MAP protection when you get it tuned, you might get away with the stock MAF depending on what power your chasing. You can just pull the vacuum line to the sensor to stop the overboost protection, but with only a stock tune you'll be playing russian roulette with your engine. I'd your after some positive feedback on deastchwerks injectors, I've been running them for about 3 years now, no issues at all. They were basically drop in, just had to space the fuel rail out with some 3mm washers. Also a little tip if you do go the Z32 path, I found out after I shelled out for a tomei plug, but the VL RB30 MAF uses the same plug as a Z32 MAF. If you need a wiring diagram I cam help you out, I posted up one in a thread a while ago.

first up i'll say i don't know anything about how the powerfc handles the priming of the pump. what i can say is don't wire it directly to the ecu, you'll fry the ecu as its only meant to switch a rely coil, not drive a pump motor. in the first drawing you posted (post #5) if you can manually ground pin 86 and the pump turn on and off fine. and when you hook it up to the ecu it brings the pump on fine when the ecu is powered up. then wouldn't that lean more towards the ecu itself isn't turning off the pump after a ~3 second prime. do powerfc's even do this?

sorry, i was trying to say that depending on what year model your S2 4WD Auto Stagea is, the ecu's have different part numbers stamped on them. i doubt there will be any difference in any of the mapping (actually i know there isn't different mapping by looking over nistune rom images) and i also doubt there is any difference in ecu pinouts. i can't see any reason why an early model S2 ecu wouldn't run a late model, there were no significant changes in engine/electrics. Hugh there is definitely a difference in those 2, one being a turbo model and one NA. Just pulled this out of FAST for you, 23740-0V300 is from 09/96 to 06/97 and out of a 4WD DET the N/A had 2 different ecu's used during 96 depending on whether the stagea was 2WD or 4WD 23740-0V000 is from 09/96 to 08/97 and out of a 2WD DE 23740-0V100 is from 09/96 to 08/97 and out of a 4WD DE

depending on year model: 23740-0V810 - 08/98 to 11/98 23740-0V811 - 11/98 to 08/99 23740-0V812 - 08/99 on

lol. create a new user on your ps3, call it whatever want. then use your dads PSN account on the new PS3 user you created. go into the PS-Store (logged into PSN as your dad under the new PS3 user). up the top right of the Stores main page there will be a little icon for downloads, click on that. It will show every download made through the PS-Store, and any game selected as apart of the welcome back package will be in there too, as they are essentially a "purchase" made in the store. You have the option to re-download any game/demo you have downloaded before whether it is a free or paid for game. so just download the game again to your console. Note you have to leave the PS3 user linked to your dads PSN account on your PS3 as it is the owner of the game. but all users on the PS3 can use the game in there own account. and i think the limit is something like 5 PS3 can have the one PSN account on them so you can essentially share across 5 consoles (again not 100% on if its 5). though i would be careful about giving your psn account login to randoms as they will have access to you billing info, address etc

you can use the gameshare feature and get them all, i did.

i want to try and tie mine into the alarm. so when its armed that switch wont work. should be easy enough just got to get motivated to do it.

same here. only work in the "on" position.

what about the other buttons? do any of them work without keys? one thing i've been meaning to look into is the lock/unlock switch. does yours work with the keys out? mine does, even with the car alarmed mine does. what i'm worried about is that means anyone can slide a bit of wire or something past the window seal and press that button and my doors unlock (well except the drivers side) easy way to break-in. one way around this is to feed the power to that switch from the window switches feed, as they only work with the ignition turned on.

I can't help you with that one sorry. I'm sure the M35 guys will spy this thread soon enough and give you all the info you need. If your keen you could check out the M35 forum some of the guys on here setup, might find some info over there, from memory it's m35stagea.info

That sucks. I was looking forward to seeing my stagea on the rollers as well as everyone else's. We've got a good range of modded stageas in qld now, would have been interesting to see all the results. For anyone sitting on the fence, post up some feed back as to why your not that interested eg, have to remove front driveshaft, can't afford it, my stagea is stock so why dyno it....etc I would have thought there would of been more interest than 6-8 people.

What model stagea do you have Sean?

good work chis you've got to be happy you didn't go out and buy any unneeded replacement parts. i had basically the same thing happen to me in my old R32 the crimp lug on the maf line to the SAFC was dodge, engine cut out and i was stuck on the side of the road. worked it out eventually, but i always solder and heat shrink any connection i do now, i don't trust those crimps.

On the S2 (NEO motor) the auto shift logic chip is apart if the engine ecu. Chef, as far as using a RS ecu it will run the engine fine, and i guess the auto too. only difference being the RWD stagea's have traction control. You may have to do the resistor trick to disable the TCS and stop it throwing up error codes.

a manual ecu wont have the A/T controls in it. so no, a manual ecu wont run an auto

fine, it never broke traction. i do have 245's on it, and i think having an auto helps with traction. i cant just drop the clutch and get instant power. even now in the wet it's hard to get it to break traction, got to be turning and get weight off the driven wheel to get it into a slide, but the 4WD straightens it out almost straight away anyway.

just another quick thought. the one thing both the CAS and AFM have in common is the 12v power feed. i know the S1 is a bit different with its wiring but both the R34 and R33 electrical diagrams show the AFM and CAS on the same 12v power feed, and they are the only two sensors on that line. it stands to reason the S1 will be the same. might be a dodge wire or connection on the 12v feed to them, though i cant see it coming good from a clutch in->out if this was the case.

yeah that sucks, intermittent problems are always the worst to diagnose. i personally haven't done the solder trick(haven't had to) but i know a lot of people have success by doing it. its about the only thing you can try apart from replacing parts. if the CAS is rooted there not much you can do except replace it.

That's what I said, then 2 months later up went the boost and retune lol

is the problem that constant that you could swap out the AFM or CAS with a friends too see if its the issue, or is it intermittent and might not do it for a few days? it would be the easiest way to see which is the issue if you could. also keep in mind you may be getting a false error on one of them caused by the others issue. the AFM is the more common failure so i'd start with that, i'm sure there is a DIY on this forum on how to open the AFM and re-solder the joints. as for what AFM and what CAS to get if you feel you want to replaced them: for the AFM all rb powered stagea's whether S1 or S2, turbo or non turbo, are the same AFM. this is also the same AFM as R34's and late model R33's, turbo and non turbo are the same in these cases too. for the CAS, RB's only used 2 types, the aluminium mitsubishi one and the black plastic cased hitachi one.

wow. there's alot of scaremongering going on in here. don't get me wrong, i totaly agree with everyone that has said its easy to stuff things up if you don't know what your doing, or just taking a guess at a tune without the aid of a wideband. but with some basic tuning knowledge there is no reason why you cant safely do it yourself, a stockish setup with minimal mods like exhaust, FMIC and a little bit more boost is really only touching up the stock tune. its not like you jumping into the deep end with a blank map on a haltech, vipec, etc. if your looking for better fuel economy and you(or you mrs) already drive around like a nanna i.e not going above 3-4000 rpm than you aren't going to get much better. its not until you start driving around with a bit of stick that the stock fuel maps start pumping it bucket loads of fuel. thats were the benfit is, high load area's of the fuel map. the timing maps can be cleaned up a bit, there is a hole in the stock map at about 4500rpm that can be smoothed out. it is more noticable once you add a bit more boost as the hole is bigger on the last couple of rows on the map. feels like a flat/dip ion power. with a stockish setup theres no reason to fiddle with the timing map anymore than that, maybe add a little bit more down low for some pickup if you feel it needs it. something to think about doing would be getting a M18 x 1.5mm bung welded onto your exhaust, just before the cat, so a wideband O2 can be hooked up. shouldnt cost that much for an exhaust place to do. also look at reading all the tuning guides on the nistune site to get a fair understanding of how the nistune works ie how load is worked out and the map relationships.

I think having to remove the front drive shaft might be putting some people off Darrin.

i'm surprised someone actually read the license agreement. The PSN website still says the network is offline.

Vacuum leak. But because your car isn't running like crap? the air is being metered. The 2 things to check are the Idle Contol Valve, and the Cold Start Valve. Both of these valves get gummed up with crap over time causing them to stick open and cause high idle. Search for the DIY tutorial on this forum on how to clean your AAC idle control valve. The cold start valve isn't covered in that tutorial but it would be worth cleaning as well. On the S1 I believe it is located under the intake manifold.