QWK32

i've got one for a 32 gtst. and in brisbane

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on my 32 with a 33 turbo pushing 14psi on stock injectors i was only gettin to 90% duty cycle (approx) so i doubt if your runnig a stock turbo you will be maxing out the injectors. and like has been said, if you put bigger injectors in you need some sort of ecu to tune them. have you looked at you fuel pump, 32s are of the age when stuff like can start failing. what is your fuel pressure, and is it holding pressure thought the rpm range? also check out your cas

buy clamp the signal i mean it locks the signal voltage at a little bit lower than the max voltage. so the ecu doesn't think its maxed out and hit cut. this makes the ecu output enough fuel and timing to run it at say 95% air flow. then the emanage will use the map (mass air pressure) sensor to take its reading from, and you have to tune it for the extra fuel and timing you need for anything after this point. so its like what you said, it uses one after the other.

looks like the plug that plugs into the switch to turn on the triptonic padles on the steering wheel.

if the afm is maxing out you can use the pressure sensor with the emanage, you can clamp the maf signal of the afm when it maxes out and then use the map signal from the pressure sensor. emanage has this feature. this is only if your afm isn't currently creating a big restriction in your intake, which it probably would be with the power your chasing. which you could then look at the z32 or q45 afms. which will work with the emanage. or even a afm bypass, but i haven't seen this done with an emanage before, only full aftermarket ecu's.

with both the switches not working i'd be looking more at the power window relay. its more likely to be this than both of the switches being faulty. just something to look at before shelling out money for 2 door switches.

dont know what the 33GTR is but on all the rb tps's i've set up have been the same. around 0.3-0.4volts at idle and it usually reads about 4.7-5 volts at wot.

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most horn buttons only have one wire to them. they switch -ve an pick up the -ve feed from the steering column. when you push the button it sends the a -ve signal to the relay which has a +ve feed already to it.

where are you located?

+1 for giving it a good couple of wacks square on the head of the bolt with a hammer and a brass punch. if it still doesnt let go i'd get a bigger compressor and rattle gun.

ECR32 is the RB25DE model. HCR32 is the RB20DE and RB20DET 2WD model. HNR32 is the RB20DET 4WD model. HR32 is the RB20E model. BNR32 is the GTR, and FR32 is the CA18i model.

hicas wont kick in till after about 70-80kp/h, and it only moves the wheels by like 0.7degrees. you could see it move on the spot if you put the car into hicas diagnostic mode, the wheels should move from side to side. have a look in the TUT/DIY section to see how to do that.

where in qld are you?

the one on the right, or the drivers side one. i only have one computer on the underside of my 32 parcel shelf and its on the drivers side. i dont have 4WD or ABS. the only other thing on the underside of my parcel shelf is a roundish speaker/bass thingy.

when you say your watching the injector test light flash, then stop for abit, are you just watching this while your cranking the engine, or when the engine is running? what ecu are you running? and did you check the condition of the wires and plug for that injector?

thats the same spoiler that mine has on it. i checked and it comes close but dosen't touch the roof.

which solinoid? some of them have a faint buzz/humming sound, or take an amp reading to see if its pulling current, if its not the solinoid isn't working.

you should be right, i dont think the hicas will activate if its in error mode. being a 33 its all electric so nothing to do with fluids. you could check the fuses, easiest thing to do. if they are all ok and you still have the stock steering wheel put it back on and see if you still have the problem. if it goes away then i'd look for a boss kit that is hicas compatible, i remember a thred out there where everyone was listing the boss kits they used and that were compatible.

could be an injector, coil, or the ignitor pack, the wiring to the ignitor pack, the wiring from the ignitor to the coil, the wiring to the injector, it even could be the cas. start with, pulling the coil out of cylinder 1 and swapped it for say cylinder 2, if the problem moves to cylinder 2 then its the coil. if it stays on cylinder 1 then its something else. then i'd checked the injector is getting its pulse, is it squirting fuel. if it is its probably the ignitor or cylinder 1's ignition wiring. if not then id check the cas out.

yes, i started a thred about it a while ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...-s-t183562.html i didn't go as far as pulling the wheels off though.

ok, you sure? at one stage i had one of each on the bench, took the compressor covers off to compare them and the wheels were different from each other. different number of fins, one was silver alloy and the other was a black wheel and had a plastic/nylon feel to it. when i asked the question i was told the series 2's had a plastic/nylon compressor wheel.

yes s2 is nylon and s1 is steel but its the intake wheel, not exhuast.