QWK32

you after the whole instrument cluster?

nah, wont hurt it, you may get a little bit of g/box oil come out there from time to time. with them longer and sitting up higher the oil cant get out. they usually finish up near the top of the gearbox bell housing.

the mitsubishi symbol isn't supposed to spin.

gear box breather lines. they are supposed to be on there with nothing on the end of the steel "U" tube section.

had the exact thing happen to me, i did what you've done, swapping coils. i put a new battery in and it fixed it. might have been a coincidence though.

as above. series 2 are different. R32 GTST, R32 GTR, R33 S1 GTST, R33 GTR, and A31 Cefiro are interchangable.

if you want to bleed the master there is a bleed nipple on the end of the cylinder (engine bay side) same process as bleeding the slave.

for number plates i use TORX security bolts. you can get the bits to do and undo them from most tool shops, but its highly unlikely that anyone going around nicking plates will be carrying one of the bits on them.

no, you cant do that. yeah, they are fairly straight forward to install, if your ok on the tools, there is a tutorial in the tut section if you have a look in there. only differance between 32 ad 33 is that 32 is hydrolic and 33 is electric, so you have hydrolic lines to block off/bypass on the 32. also you need to get a wheel alignment done straight away after install. there are group buys that pop up occasionly for them, or just look around on some of the performance parts sites.

what do you mean buy disconnected?? you cant just pull a fuse or unplug a computer. you need a hicas lock bar to put in place of the hicas cylinder to hold the rear end straight.

afc neo added

afc neo wont loose its memory if you disconnect the battery. were you playing around in the engine bay at all??

boost controller and bov sold

boost controller and bov sold pending payment

just found this ad on ebay. its the same car advertised on carsales for $8500. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...rksid=p3907.m29

i do, and i attached the wire to the light for the cigarette lighter.

pm replied to

bump

sounds like you car isn't really turning to the "ON" position. the key might be in the ON position but the car isn't powering up to ON. check the positive battery terminal connector, there will be your large core (main) cable and also some smaller wires on plugs, check the smaller cable haved become unplugged. if thats all good the check to see if you have a constant power source to the ign barrell, and that it is powering up the "ON" position wires.

excuse my ignorance, but why is it unsuitable for australian roads?

where does the shudder feel like its coming from, front, rear, g/box area? and any clunking, rattling banging noises?

haven't had oil/fuel mixture in a catch can before but have seen it in a mates car when i done a service for him. he had a coilpack stuffing around for a bit before it shat itself. all the unburnt fuel from that dodgey coil was going straight down into the sump. and it looked like what your explaining, "oily water" with a fuel smell.

with an safc, the DecAir settings. on a full aftermakert ecu with a deceleration enrichment/enleanment correction map (what its called can vary from ecu to ecu).

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/ follow the links into body styling for the 32

check you starter motor wires havent been damaged/blasted off by the high pressure washer. also check all fuses, engine bay fuse box and cabin box.