QWK32

the emanage is a piggy back ecu, it can not be used as a standalone. even the EMU is still a piggyback, that is why it is one of the best options for people with auto's, the std ecu is still used. aswell as being able to "bend" the afm signal, instead you can adjust your injectors duty cycle, which is what makes it a better fuel tuning option. and the ignition timing adjustment is the other big bonus with the emanage. that is really just skimming the top of the features with the emanage though.

Bump, a few things added.

no, not 100% but the best google and i could come up with you could look over this list, i had a quick look but couldnt see it on there. http://www.grid.co.jp/ecu_data.htm its helped me id ecu's before. and the "MEC - XXXX" from what i've found out previously is the ROM Chip type. and most of the RB DET models carry a MEC type chip.

are you worried about colour? i have a black passenger side fender. and which indicator? i have the passenger side one. i also have a front bar but it has a crack in it.

R33 GTS RB20E ECU

do you have an oil type air filter/pod? if so that could be the problem.

Emanage Ultimate would be better than the Emanage Blue but at about twice the cost. if you can afford it the EMU would be the one to go for, with more tunability it would handle some of the higher end mods better than the EMB.

it looks like the pivot ball that your clutch fork sits on.

i don't see your logic. the emanage, whether the Blue or Ultimate, is far better than safc, and still a piggyback ecu. as well as having the option to alter the afm signal as the safc does, you can also adjust timing and injector duty cycle. when you start looking at big changes to your fuel maps the emanage is the better option. safc is only good for light mods (exhaust, FMIC, and a little bit more boost) mattxwa, if your looking for that power output, with better turbo, injectors, etc dont waste your time and money with a safc. go the Emanage or a remap(if you know a tuner that will do it) the correction values you would need to run on a safc would mess with the stock ecu's timing values too much. emanage and remap wont. and yes, best to get the ecu installed before or atleast at the same time as turbo and injectors to save doing damage to you engine.

yeah they are the same. r32 GTST and GTR, r33 series 1 GTST and GTR are all the same.

coils sold

safc is only good for getting the best out of a lightly modded car. the EMU would be up to the job, but, like has been already said, find a tuner you happy with, look at the ecu's they can tune and go from there. Also depends on your budget. Autronic, Motec and Haltec are good ecu's but in the top end of the prices, any possibly overkill for the rb20 (depending on your future plans) PowerFC are still around for the rb20 second hand. Wolf3D's are a good unit and plug in aswell. EMU is one of the cheaper options and can almost do everything a full aftermarket can do. IMO if there is a good remap tuner around your area then that is the way to go.

45v1 is a stock 33 turbo, 16v11 is a stock 32 turbo. and if the 33 turbo has a steel comp wheel it is a series 1, if it has a Black Nylon comp wheel its a R33 series 2 turbo.

fog lights added.

i thought the 34's aerial was embedded in the rear windscreen just like the 32's aerial is embedded in the front windscreen.

are you talking about the up/down switch, cause i have one.

pack it full of sand and heat it up a little, then gentally muscle it. you have to be carfull with thin walled ally, it can fold and split easy, and you may thin it out too much. can you just use a silicone bend to get the angle right?

r33 series 1 should be ok, but not series 2

i have one. but it has a hole drilled in the back of it so i could put cables through it. i had my EBC hiding in there.

i'm assuming you just spliced the bosch pumps power line onto the walbros source. one relay may not be big enough to let enough current through to power two pumps, so your getting a voltage drop. if you disconnect one of the pumps is the voltage drop still so big? you may need to run two relays switched by the same signal, one for each pump. if that fails you may need to run a larger core wire or another feed from the battery for the two relays.

basicly, its colour screen and got more load points than the older ones. the only advantage the safcII has over the neo is that it has knock monitoring where the neo doesn't.

when you turn the key to its different points, eg, "acc" and "on" you also send 12v power down your "acc" line and your "on" line. what you need to do is figue out which wires these are and apply a good 12v to them before your car will start. without powering these lines you ecu will not power up along with everything else needed to run your car. ussually people would use a good on/off switch to set the car to "on" and then a push button to crank the engine.

Item: Stock R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO) Injectors (6 of them) Age: Unsure, come off an engine not in a skyline Condition: Good, they had no leaks and they all appear to be good (no broken bits or cracks) Price: $200 $150 ono pick-up, postage extra To Fit: I think they just fit top feed high impedance NEO engines Location: Brisbane Southside Contact: Reply here or PM me. Comments: I put new sard injectors in a friends car for him and he gave me the old ones for doing the work for him. they also come with the clip things that hold them in. Item: OS Giken adjustable cam gear Age: 6 months. Condition: Excellent, was only on the engine for 6 months Price: $100, $10 extra posted To Fit: All RB twin cam engines. if you have VVT it wont go on the inlet side without modification Location: Brisbane Southside Contact: Reply here or PM me. Item: D1 Spec oil catch can Blue. Age: 6 months Condition: Excellent Price: $50, $10 extra posted Location: Brisbane Southside Contact: Reply here or PM me. Comments: comes with the fittings on the catch can but no lines and no baffles inside.

no, if the engine drops in revs, it means that coil is working fine. if you unplugged a coil and there was no change in revs or how the engine was running then it may be the coil.

yeah when the clutch is pressed the throw out bearing has load on it. he said that when the clutch is pressed the noise goes away. when the clutch is not pushed in the input shaft of the geabox is engaged and the throw out bearing no longer has load on it.