QWK32

if it goes away when you push the clutch in and comes back when the clutch is released then its your input shaft bearings in you gearbox, not the throw out bearing. throw out bearing noise is the other way around (when pressed you get the noise, released you get no noise).

the above is the easiest way. if you still cant tell from that, you could pull the coils out, put a spark plug in one (make sure the spark plug is touching the engine) the crank the car over a couple of times. if its working you will see a spark. then move the spark plug to the next coil and test that one.

i have some, GTST ones, i'm in brisbane

i'm pritty sure you will still need the resistor pack with the emanage. its just a piggy back. in the end it all comes down to how much your willing to spend, EMU is a good cheap option for the rb20. and it also comes down to who can tune it for you.

Item: Stock R33 Series One Turbo Condition: Good, Fins and housing good condition and just the normal shaft play. Price: $300 firm (plus postage, to perth its about $25 regular post going off the cost calc on the austpost website. syd and melb about $15 regular, express post is more) Location: Brisbane (pick up is fine) Contact: im on here every afternoon so just reply here or PM me Comments: Had the turbo on the car (R32 GTST) for about 8 months before i got my hands on a series 2 turbo and put that on, always run well and never blew smoke. has a hole drilled and tapped in outlet to screw in fitting for wastegate (1/8th BSPT) also has one broken dump pipe stud snapped off (easy to get out i just haven't got around to it). and sorry i dont have the 90deg elbow or banjo bolts or lines.

Sold

initializing it isn't enough, you have to set a few of the settings so the safc knows a few things, throttle type, no of cyl, afm type. if these aren't set right it wont run properly.

could be a fouled up plug, faulty coilpack or faulty ignitor. check you spark plug condition. to check the coils: when it sounds like a wrx, unplug you coilpacks one at a time, if it gets worse when you unplug one of the coils its not that one, if there is no change in the way engine runs then that coil may be rooted. then swap that coil for another, if the problem moves with the suspect coil then its the coil, if it stays in the same position (on the same cylinder) then could be the ignitor or the wiring to that coil.

PowerFC is a plug and play ecu, not hard to fit. are you talking about the powerfc still. cause it does alot, its a standalone ecu. it works with all the factory sensors, and with the handcontroller you can do a sensor check.

doesn't the ignitor have the number of the cylinder that pin relates to stamped on the black plastic side of the ignitor just above the plug?

i think this might be true for cars on a lightly modded setup still on stock turbo, this was true on my setup untill i put a larger flowing turbo on, then i got lean mixtures. i have personally seen a couple of 32's with light mods on a dyno lean out to 15s, the tuner runing the dyno had to stop the run to be safe. the scary thing was that the owners of the cars had been driving them hard for ages without knowing the NEO does have hi and low throttle settings, its up to whoever is tuning/setting it up to set the change over % levels. and the NEO just like the SAFC II has the DEC-AIR setup but both of them from factory settings arn't enabled/setup yet. nor do you really have to.

i know that if the belt has too much tension applied they will make a humming/vibrating noise.

no wonder your car was cutting out, and you were getting weird afm readings, the afm's were maxed out. that probably means that your old afm's aren't buggered.

yep. you have to remove the cas. remember to take note of its position. and there are 5 bolts that hold the top section on, one in each corner and one right in the middle.

same thing happened to me, but instead of pulling the box apart and checking joints, i got another one from the wreakers for $20. once the door card is of you'll know the box we are talking about.

are you talking about the blue dots? i've noticed them lately and it seems everyone that does have them, there seems to be more of them the higher rank they are. is this right?

easy tiger. if you've just had a wet compression test done you will have oil in you cylinder, hense burning oil and blue smoke.

i dont think power steering fluid plays anypart in it on a 33, its electric. you could try running a HICAS and ECU diagnostic, i think the info on how to do it is in the tutorial section.

yeah, at idle they should read about 1v and at 2500rpm they should be between 1.5 and 2v. but they might not start to play up till higher revs. if the multimeter probes are too big wrap some smaller wire around them and have a long bit hanging off the end and then use that as the probe. the afm for the front turbo is pin 35 and the rear is pin 27, also they have a total signal range of 0v to 5v hope this helps you figure out if its the afm's or not.

yeah, just check for a varying voltage. they are a 0 - 5 v signal. so you know if your at 2000rpm under light throttle and light boost (1 - 2psi) and the afm signal voltage is at say 4.8v, then its probably stuffed.

do you have and aftermarket ecu or anything to monitor the afm load or voltage. one of them might be playing up and giving high (maxed out) readings causing the car to cut out. if you don't have a way to check the voltage use a multimeter and get a voltage reading off the signal input wires at the ecu.

i'd take it back and say they didn't do the tune properly. make sure you write the tune down because i'm sure by swaping between easy and pro modes it clears the map, then check your throttle points and other settings aswell (just to be sure). then you can just re-enter the tune, but you will have to fill in the gaps, other wise you map will be up and down.

yep, only if you are running a stock skyline (except GTR) afm. z32 afm's are different settings and i think q45 afms too.

nope, hotwire is the kind of afm it is. DECIM8, maybe the turner was unaware of the "PRO" tuning mode with the 16 steps. the settings NUMBER IN 1 and OUT 1 is wrong, should be 4 and 4 (except GTR, 3 and 3). SENSOR CALC (calc in) is right, 1 and 1. or single and single model select is off unless you have VVT and wish to use the neo to adjust the VVT (leave OFF) and mode select you have it set to easy, or 8 step tune mode. select PRO in this menu and you get the 16 steps to tune.

yeah, i realised that after i posted. cheers.