QWK32

oh ok. the only reason i use reverse is so the car doesn't move forward onto me will the car stay still if you use 4th?

its fairly easy once you get all the covers and harmonic balancer off, if you've changed a timing belt yourself you should be able to do a water pump. put the car in reverse, get someone to put thier foot on the brake, and use a long breaker bar. there is another way buy putting a big screw driver in somewhere but i dont know that one.

i had pretty much exactly the same happen to me not that long ago. on cylinder two aswell, i changed plugs, and swapped the coilpacks around like you did. i couldn't figue it out. i had not driven my car for a couple of months due to work being done and the battery was flat. the battery did hold a charge after charging it, but it mustn't of been enough because as soon as i tried a different (newer) battery the missing on cyl 2 went away.

could be a fault with the little switch down at the end of your handbrake that turns the light on and off. or a short in the wire somewhere. much easier to check the switch so i'd start there.

you could try to set the cas up to 60 deg btdc and see if that gets it running before calling in reinforcements. you said it was running like a week ago but crap because of a manifold leak. so in theory it should still run. and the cas position it the only real thing thats moved. i don't think the ecu would have changed itself, and even though from what you've said about the injector being set up as group fire, this set up will still work. could be set up better though. i.e batch injection did you do the ecu install yourself?

that symbol would be you Exhaust Gas Temp warning light. its for the sensor located on your cat.

there is no real way to tell this because 1 and 6 will always fire together. nor does it matter with wasted spark.

no thats not normal for them to all fire at once. in your ecu settings, under sensor setup, what is your injection arrangment? i think if its set wrong it will cause them all the fire at once. btw what version software are you running? shouldn't be to hard to set it up at 60 deg BTDC hey.

yes one complete rotation (360deg) of the cas should fire all injectors. how are you running your wasted spark setup? banked standard coils or another way, eg, 3 coils 2 cyl per coil (falcon/commo way)? here is a screenshot of a base map i got from EMS a while ago when helping a mate out with his. we didn't end up using it (we got it going before they sent it to me) but they said its just a base map to get it going.

you can look at some of the brands offering replacment gearsets but i think these tend to be even more expensive than a 25 box.

with the stock turbo i had to take some fuel out on top end, but once i put the 33 turbo on i had to add fuel to get a good afr, i do have a wideband o2. but that was on a 32, 33 may be completely different. and like has already been said everyones tune is different.

well i don't have a 33, but i did have a neo in my 32 i little while ago, and with a 33 turbo (bigger than std 32 one) and just on a road tune with a wideband O2 sensor and i only bothered with the HI throttle settings (because i was upgrading soon) from about 2000rpm to 4000 rpm i slowly increased to around +5% correction then from there it increased to around +8% to +10% correction at 7000rpm i cant remember off the top of my head the exact values (but this is on a 32) i would think that with a 33 and with the turbo you have said it would be similar if not more fuel added up high.

it shouldn't be sparking randomly. it should follow the pattern i said 1 5 3 6 2 4. wasted spark would make it easier to set up be cause regardless if the cyl is on its intake or combustion cycle it is getting a spark. i.e firing order of (1,6) (2,5) (3,4) (1,6) (2,5) (3,4) and if your running wasted spark then all your changing by having the cas one rotation out is the injector timing. 2 possiblities it could be would be its injecting on the intake cycle and the fuel goes straight in the cylinder, or the injector squirts onto the back on the valve and is taken in on the next intake cycle, either way its getting the fuel. so wasted spark would be easier to set up. if its sequential and if it still wont run after setting it up the way i said in the last post then take the cas off, spin it through 180 degress and put it back on. if it is around the wrong way that will change the ignition timing from the intake stroke to the combustion stroke.

its just blowby from the breather lines. its normal, with a plumb back bov its just vented back into the intake. you can run an oil catch can to minimise it. your not the first person to freak out over some thing like this. do a search on "blow by" or "oil in the intake" you should get a fair bit on info show up.

i cant see why you would need -21% correction at idle have you tried taking the low throttle correction untill about 2000rpm back to 0% and see what happens. and have you tried a different timing light? also in the sensor check screen on the neo what does it say your tps voltage is?

from what i understand the are, except the very late model 33's have one the same as a 34. still running stock coilpacks? what you could try is: (just to check everything) unplug the injector harness from the main plug at the front so as not to inject fuel. pull the coilpacks out and place them where you can see them spark. manually rotate the cas and check that the firing order goes in the sequence of 1 5 3 6 2 4. you may not get that a first depending on your current cas position, it may start from 3, etc. if thats all good, then set the engine to cyl 1 at TDC. with the cas held the right way up, rotate the cas till coil 1 fires, then turn it around a very tiny bit more. that'll be where the right cas tooth alignment to the cam is, then put that onto cam and set the cas bolts so they are about halfway in the slotted holes. this will be a good spot to start till it gets running and you can get a light on it. then plug the injector harness back in. make sure they are plugged in the right way, and getting a signal. and your fuel lines are the right way around. if thats all good the only things left are your MAP sensor, and ecu settings.

just means your base idle is abit off, the aac valve fixes it up when its plugged in. when you engine revs higher your base timing readings get larger, they are also wrong. the base timing needs to be set at a certain rpm for the reading to be correct. at what rpm are you taking that much fuel out at? it doesnt really matter at idle because the ecu runs on closed loop and does its own correction.

have you tried taking a reading from the loop in the coilpack loom at the back of the engine. how does the car drive, how does it feel? have you had the cas off anytime lately, and put it back on like a tooth off???

that tells me that the cas isn't lined up properly. or you cams are out. have you checked that your timing marks on the cam pulleys all line up. i know its probably unlikely, but is there anyway the ecu has been reset?

just take them to any engineering/machine shop. tell them the pcd and they'll be able to do it.

go and buy a deep socket. and cut out the walls of the socket like in my crappy pic then cut out the botton of the socket (the nut/bolt end) like you said you where going to do with the ring spanner. hope you understand my drawing??? i've had to do this before at work on a hyrdolic manifold block with limited space.

yes, what ecu are you running? i just looked back to your first post and you say that you have fuel and spark, if the cas was faulty you would have these. how did you check for fuel and spark? on some aftermarket ecu's you have to tell the ecu your firing order for it to work. also whats you battery voltage like? if its low your coils may not be charging properly giving you a weak spark.

from memory they are about 400 to 500mm longer. i put a rb20det into a mates vl and had to wrap the throttle cable around the suspension tower once to take up the slack.

there is no need to worry about the dec-air settings. as for the correction settings its best to get it on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor to get it right, every ones is different. just by looking at what mods you list you could count on adding a bit to the high throttle from about 3000rpm onwards. but you still need to see what really happening with a wideband O2 sensor.

did you disconnect the aac valve before taking the reading, at what rpm did you take the reading? and where did you take your signal from? base timing cant be changed by a safc neo. you cant indirectly affect the ignition timing added on by the ecu by taking or adding fuel with the neo but this will not change your base timing.