QWK32

sounds good Darrin, im definitely in.

i dont recognise the plug sorry, but it does look like its spliced into a 12v power feed (it common for them to be yellow). the only reasons i can think of as to why someone would want to run it to the boot would be for an amp or similar (gauge looks too small for that anyway) or to feed the fuel pump battery voltage to bypass the stock 2 stage voltage setup.

its the carbon canister purge solenoid valve. the carbon canister will be down the front of the car around the passenger head light. the purge valve and carbon canister have something to do with the fuel tank breather, i'm not too sure on when it does it but the purge valve opens to let fuel tank vapours in the carbon canister back into the intake to be burnt off by the engine.

oooops!! do you know why/how it broke?

yeah i agree, i've never use multiple boost settings on my cars, always just set it to what i want and leave it. though i can see the benefit on say a manual car for drag purposes. the Gizzmo lets you go through presents from a remote button. so say you want to launch on 14psi but then once your off the line click the button and run 20psi.

i have a Gizzmo MSIBC, excellent little unit and they come at a reasonable price, i got mine for $300 new, at the same time a Profec B SpecII was $900 new!!! i previously owned a Prefec B so i thought i'd try the Gizzmo, it does a very good job at holding my GT35 on 23psi. it took me a couple of days (trips to and from work) to find a good balance between the duty and gain so it would ramp quickly and would spike, but i haven't had to touch it since then.

Nistune should be the only answer for any setup on the street. i don't understand why people think nistune is so limited. it is equally as good (if not better) than a power fc which almost always is in the top 5 recommended aftermarket ecu's, and it beats the hell out of any piggyback solution.

The vehicle speed sensor is also used for HICAS, but I'm not sure if it gets its reading from the ecu or directly from the gauge cluster.

it goes to a small solid pipe just under the crossover pipe, sort of just under the BOV. the other end of the solid pipe has another piece of vac line that goes the the carbon canister.

here's a quick little comparison for an old stock pump (left) and an old walbro (right, not GSS342 but the top plug/socket is exactly the same as one)

the two step voltage is 8-9v and 13-14v. so the dropping resistor is roughly dropping 5v. from the quick testing i did this only happens at idle. i think the problem with this and aftermarket pumps is that they are designed to run on battery voltage and the lower idle time voltage can stuff them up. but thats just my opinion, some people run them fine for years on the dual voltage without an issue. its up to you really, i did the wiring mod just for piece of mind.

the walbro has a moulded two pin socket on top of it, not the screw terminal type like the bosch ones have. i used the standard wiring because the plug for the stock pump was exactly the same as the moulded socket on the walbro pump, the R34 may be the same. this meant i didn't have to stuff around chopping, soldering and insulating a join. i also used the new sock provided with the walbro, it looked basically the same as the stock one and i haven't had any issue with fuel supply and i sometime run it down till the fuel light comes on . i guess the other guys are saying the sock provided with the walbro doesn't sit down as far as the stock one therefore not providing a good enough pickup when the tank gets low. just have a look at everything when you get the cradle out of the tank, check the mounting position and how it is with the new sock and the old one. you may find there is bugger all difference and then use the new one. if the R34 fuel pump electrical plug is the same then it will be even easier, it will basically be plug and play.

I have, and it doesn't work as you think it would. It won't tune a perfect map just by entering the target values. for us, as we already have a base map to run from the auto tune feature is of no use. From what i can tell It's more for when you dont have a base map and want to get the engine to at least run, at best auto tune only gives you a very rough starting map.

i'd start by looking at what deals the site sponsors (e.g justjap, kudosmotorsport, etc) have going. they may be $10-$20 more expensive than the cheapest ebay deal but at least you know your getting the real deal. a friend got one from autobarn about a month ago for around $170, might be worth seeing what they have. if you want a walbro you will want to get a GSS-342 or GSS-341, the only difference between the two is the fuel outlet it to side on the 341 instead of in the center like the 342. the 342 is the more popular one. edit: Phil, the walbro was a direct fit for me, electrical plug was the same and it was a perfect fit for the stock location. though a stagea has a different fuel pump mount than a 34 i think, its in a cradle/box on the bottom of the fuel tank.

stagea and R34 injection multipliers (K-CONST) are the same. they both run the same injectors and AFM. besides, i remember in your other thread you were getting matt to load R34 maps on when you got nistune, so that should clear any doubt over incorrect values. as for the reason someone put it in there, maybe they really needed a new ecu and a R34 one was proving hard to find. definitely look at the fuel pump, try bypassing the dual voltage modulator. even the fuel filter my be all blocked up, when was the last time you changed it? walbro's are ok cheap and easy to fit, i'm running one in my stagea and have been for a year or two now without any issues.

+1 on this, its exactly what i have done and for a couple of reasons, one so i can remove the wideband and use it on other cars for tuning, and two, you shouldn't be running a wideband where the factory O2 sensor is, it get way too hot for them in that position, a general rule of thumb is about 1meter back from the turbo outlet if you can. also, most wideband units will have a narrowband simulation output that you can use to hook up to your ecu if you don't want to run the stock one.

there is no vehicle specific software, consult is just the protocol that all nissans between about 1989 - 2002 use. and there is plenty of free software floating around. i've got a few, ECUTalk, Conzult Free, TECU, Nissan Scantech (i think this ones free). If you want to shell out some money you could use Nissan Datascan. even the Nistune software will perform consult operations. If your looking for a good solid little program to check error codes, look at gauge readouts and some data logging than look at ECUTalk. its a great little program, i used to use it all the time before i got my nistune software licence. As far as i know there aren't any free consult programs that can run active tests, i think the free conzult can but its limited.

Have you checked the vac lines to the boost gauge? Could have a hole in it. It sounds like your hitting the factory ~14psi boost cut the S2's have, if your gauge/lines are faulty and the gauge is displaying a lower reading, then you may have turned the boost up too high and are hitting the limit.

nice but are you sure you don't have a chipped ecu or something controlling fuel. not that there is anything wrong with the afr's, in fact they are probably too good under load for the stock ecu, you only just hit 11.5-11.4 under full load, every RB engine i've seen still running the stock ecu goes well into the 10's and some times even lower.

Be careful with the nistune softwares autotune feature, Its not meant to be a precise tuning tool. Just to help get a car started from a completely blank fuel map. You really should be making changes to the kconst and latency to suit the new injectors instead of making direct changes to the fuel map, which is what the autotune does.

Looks good Adam, your sub box still fits in snuggly. Rear strut brace is one o the best rear suspension mods you can do IMO, helps take out a bit of the twist and stiffen the rear up. You'll notice the difference after a drive

Yeah I was a bit confused as well when I first ha a look at the setup, the model stagea I have has a neo motor too, I had a look at the part break down in Nissan fast which says it's a fuel damper.

Actually injector and afm swaps couldn't be easier. For injector swap just enter and old injector cc and the new cc and the nistune software makes all the adjustments for you, just need to do some fine adjustment of the Kconst and latency with a wideband. AFM is the same, tell the software what the existing AFM is, and what the new AFM is and it makes the changes for you. Once again you just need to do some fine tuning with a wideband.

If thats a neo motor it's a fuel damper, there are two of them, one down near the fuel filter and one infront of the plenum. The one that sits down lower and closer to the cam cover is the fuel pressure regulator.

what have you done to compensate for the larger injectors? are you flooding the cylinders?