QWK32

strut brace wont hit your bov. you should have plenty of room to fit one without removing anything.

don't block anything to do with the oil breather. if you do you will end up with oil sprayed all over you engine bay. if you want to block of the bov and not run one just make up a plate to go in between the standard bov and where it bolts to. that way you don't get any vac leaks. or if you want to take it out, block off with a plate where it bolts to, block the 25mm vac hose that comes out of the bov and block the vacuum line that actuates the bov. there is no need to remove the black steel pipe.

and have you got the leads set up right? earth lead into positive and torch lead into negative. also what size tungsten tip are you using?

100 amps thats too high for 2mm and 3mm plate and what do you mean by bubbling? like spitting at you?

pretty sure you can't write or change anything on the ecu with a consult cable. its just diagnostic port for checking gauges and error codes. i've got one and a few of the different programs that can be used on the ecu and none of them let me change anything. in the manual with the wiring diagram if you find your car model and engine and keep going across the table it tells you the number and sensor type to use. HW-4. it even says in the manual if you follow the startup list which screen to change it on.

the compression ratio of the rb25de is higher than the rb25det. and which rb25de are you talking about, 32 33 or 34? 32 and 34 rb25de have different cam specs to the 33 rb25de. both the 33 rb25det and rb25de share the same cam specs though.

on a standard ecu you do because it uses a closed loop idle and low load O2 correction. car runs abit crappy without it, not very fuel economic. you can eliminate the need for it in most aftermarket standalone ecu's. when you say it wasn't plugged in was the electric plug not connected or the O2 sensor not screwed in at all?

depending on the paint you use and how thick you put it on it will reduce the cooling rate of the intercooler.

where you choose your sensor type as Hotwire, the next screen you have to enter a number. make sure Hotwire is chosen an in the next screen reads "04 04" the 1 in and 1 out means that you have 1 signal in and 1 out. the 04 is just the sensor type for skylines except the GTR without these settings right your car will run like shit?

i run an aftermarket bov venting to atmo with out backfiring, and untill a couple of months ago i still ran the standard ecu. all without having a noticable backfire or flames. wraith_skyline, whats the rest of your exhaust setup like? straight through? Cannon? and whats you spark plug condition? i know that the std computer tends to rich out under load, and if your plugs are in need of attention and and not giving a good spark you may end up with unburnt fuel. and how do you know your a/f is fine? if your cat is stuffed and with a straight through exhaust, or one with just a cannon on the end, there would be nothing to muffle the backfire and contain the flames if you get a backfire.

nah, measured it. got my car apart doing work on it so just nipped out and took a quick measurement.

check to make sure your sensor type is HW-4 and 1 in 1 out. and car select is 6 and the arrow pointing up. any one of these wrong and you car wont run properly. alse did you check that the afm in wire and out wire hooked up the right way? and the knock splice in wire isn't used in the safcII to run anything, just a gauge that you can display.

i've only got the standard rb20 box but mine sits about 10-11mm below the floor pan. hope this helps.

don't cut the brake light wire. its on a plug. which wing do you have? some have a bolt in the middle aswell

yeah, direct fit but different impedance. if you install gtr injectors on a rb20 you need to install the resistor pack aswell other wise you will fry your ecu.

one thing to take into account is that as you manipulate the afm signal with the safc to trick the ecu in thinking its not getting as much air so it injects less fuel is that, when you tell the ecu its got less air it also doesn't add as much timing to the ignition map. the more you bend the signal to remove fuel the more retarded the ecu timing becomes from what it should be and then you get pinging. with the safc you need to find the balance. and start looking at other things, i just saw in your first post that you said you still have a side mount intercooler. i don't know how good the smic are but is it posible that it isn't cooling the air enough? the hot air would ignite the fuel before the spark and you'd get knock (ping). maybe? just a thought.

get some gasket material and make one yourself.

how did you test the timing? with the loop off the igniter. most timing lights i've used (repco super cheap ones) you have to double loop the wire or just halve the value you get. so 25 becomes 12.5, which is running a bit retarded from the 15 degrees its supposed to be. if you haven't double looped the wire and you've reset it to 15 then you are really running it at 7.5 degrees

they may be the same physical shape and go straight in but impedance is difference. rb20 high, ca18 and gtr are low.

check the base timing. could be too far retarded, this explains all of what your saying. have you had anyone look at your car recently? anywork done? anyone tried to set your timing? etc. if not, i'd start with the cas. inaccurate readings from the cas will play havoc with your timing.

yeah, from what i've been told its a t25 in a t3 flanged housing with a slightly bigger compressor.

depends on when you took it back off. if you just did it and forgot something and had to take it off again you'll be right. just check up on how much loctite to use, too much and you will have a mission on your hands.

best way, if you dont have one, go and hire a right angle drill, doesn't cost much. go to a tool shop and buy and left twist drill bit, i used a 6mm. as you drill into the stud it also unscrews it.

dude if your actuator wasn't opening all the way you would over boost. kinda hard to make sense you, no paragraphs or full stops. you could take the arm of the flap and see if its closed in that position.

i think karnivool are over in the states at the end of this year. hopefully they can make it back.