QWK32

standard is 15. (assuming you have a manual, auto is 20 i think). lower setting (10) is retarded and high setting (20) is advanced. from what your saying you have timing has been retarded.

when was the last time you changed the slave cylinder? it might be worn and was only just appling enough force to disengage the original clutch. with the heavier clutch it may be struggling. how much play do you have on your clutch pedal before you feel resistance? and as far as i know reverse is the only gear that doesn't have syncro's.

yeah they do. we got a halfcut over once that had a damaged sump and used a rb30e one, from memory we had to tap one or two new holes and that was it. also used a rb30e sump gasket to seal it up, it never leaked.

what size wheels and tire profile are you using? and did your car go from a auto to a manual?

for starters the pulley on the front of you car for the manual timing, or the CAS should be set at 15 degrees, 10 is to low. the throttle set points with your settings of low 30% and high 60% are: low throttle map is 0% to 30%, and high throttle map is 60% to 100%. everything between 30% and 60% throttle are just interpolated. the tune that you are describing doesn't sound like a real tune at all. -2% of the high map is bugger all and with your mods you probably don't need to trim or add anything on the low throttle map. the std ecu's like to rich out under full throttle and boost. i'd say get your base timing set to the correct setting, 15 degrees, and you should be able to trim much more off the high map without getting pinging.

get a sharp point prick punch (not a center punch, the one with the sharper angle) and break it to pieces.

i think thats the oil pressure sender.

i don't know about the intercooler itself but i do know that if you cut holes for piping you need to weld a plate around the hole that is no less than 3mm thick and where space permits, no less than 25mm wide eg. if the hole you cut is 75mm the hole in the plate is 75mm and the outer diametre is 100mm. i guess if your worried about the cops then get one, or ring the engineer and talk to them first. i think its any modification that isn't a factory option or didn't come out on the car as standard needs to be plated.

n/a box i assume. i just asked for a vl manual slave cylinder. is there a difference between the n/a and turbo boxes on the vl.

just a question for the guys who have installed these noltec bushes. i've just installed some in my subframe and was wondering what if any torque settings you guys used to do them up? or did you just do them up as tight as you could?

no pic. should be able to rotate the rotors by hand when the pedal isn't being pressed. which brakes are engaging, front or rear or the handbrake shoes?

slave cylinders from the vl manual bolt straight onto the rb20 box and are only about 15 - 20 dollars.

not needed. just use the gaskets.

if your game you could get a bearing and seal kit for it. but not really needed unless you have leaks or noise bearings.

316 and 304 can look the same. its all in the finish, im sure those plasmaman plemuns are all polished up to be that shinny. the differance between the two is that, mainly 316 is more expensive, 316 is harder than 304 and more chemical resistant to name a couple.

even on the pressurised side you don't want turbulent flow. turbulant flow can generate heat aswell as pressure drop and resitriction. and heat is one thing that we don't want. on the intake turbulance could in worst case senario create somewhat of a restriction of flow. i'd say for and intake pipe least amount of bends, if bends are needed don't make them sharp, if welding the pipes try to smooth out the welds/slag on the inside.

i think those two green relays, from memory, are to power up the injectors and the coils, i think. any markings on the box? i've had my ecu out plenty of times and never noticed another box. is it possible that your car did have ABS at one stage but it is now removed?

standard 32 throttle body inlet size is 2.75 inch. just run 2.5inch all the way and use reducing silicone joiners. and like has been said, just use 304, cheaper and just as good for what you want it for.

when my speedo cable was on the way out the power steering used to just shut off for a bit then kick back in. when the cable completely flogged out the power steering wouldnt work at all. like you said there has to be some like between the powersteering and the speedo. ps this was in a 32 but i cant imagine there being to much of a difference between the models.

its best to put the car on load (drive up the road) to test the turbo. revving it from neutral wont do much. you could just unbolt the dump pipe and look at the rear of the turbo if you think the turbo is blown. or you could unbolt the cat, take it out and see if any bits of turbine wheel are in it or if any fall out of the front pipe. wastegate, maybe, could be somehow jammed open. i haven't heard of this before so i doubt it. see if you can move the actuator arm with your hand. there will be a bit of resistance but you should be able to move it. start with the easy things first. take the controller out, if it still wont boost then start looking a pulling the exhaust apart to check if the turbo is ok.

i wouldn't even buy a narrow band o2 gauge, waste of money. best ones to get would be, turbo, water temp, oil temp, oil press, fuel press.

have you tried taking the boost controller out, or winding it up abit? i know that some of the manual controllers if they are not opened enough or are faulty they can restrict boost. could be the rust bits from the rusty holes your talking about rattling around in there. is the clonking noise only while you turning, even just a little bit?

i've seen stupid knock readings like 280 on a car that had a stuffed engine mount. the vibration of the metal to metal contact was enough to give a false reading. any noise, vibration, hit can give a knock reading. tapping the side of you engine with a hammer is enough to get a reading. also check to see if anything is touching(bumping) agianst the engine. i myself have had readings of like 160ish from when i had the safcII and i hit rev limiter. don't know if the safcII runs the same knock system though. another option is that the knock sensor has stuffed.

do you know if the whole wiring harness got swapped aswell? series one 33's run and igniter pack and series 2's don't. what turbo is on it?

one split pin to remove before you can remove the larger pin that holds the master cylinder rod to the pedal. one oil line that goes down to the slave cylinder. two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall. the hardest parts of replacing them is having to be upside down on your drivers seat to work on the pedal part, and trying to manouvering the master cylinder around the brake booster and plenum to get it out.