QWK32

one thing you have to think about if you are mixing and matching is the speedo drive. some are different lengths and gearing so you need to fit the right one for the right final drive

it will go into gear properly even if you clutch if completely buggered. definantly sounds like clutch man, you shouldn't be able to do the 4th gear and handbrake trick. another one is putting it in 5th and driving up a steep hill at 60ish, if it starts reving high its slipping. if its really bad you'll need to get your flywheel machined up aswell and a new clutch

rb30 turbo boxes have are couple of different gear ratios than the n/a. cant remember which gears though, 4th and 5th, i think. and from what i've heard, the rb25 non turbo boxes are the same internals as an rb20 box. no where near as strong as a rb25det box. dont know about the fly wheel but a rb30 manual box will bolt onto a rb20.

safc II can convert a z32 afm signal to a signal to match your car, its part of the setting up. it asks what type of signal is inputted and what signal you would like to output. and you can run larger injectors, the safc has nothing directly to do with them, just changes afm signal and then the ecu changes its output signal to the injectors. one thing to keep in mind is like what Beer Baron said, your timing is also effect by these changes. safc is only ideal for slight afr changes, like a tune for a car with exhuast, air filter, fmic and boost up a bit. whats your reason for staying with the stock ecu?

have you taken the speedo drive out. it wont budge with that in there.

also check fuses. you may have shorted out something and blown one of them when you've done the swap.

my mate had a whistling sound coming from the front of his car after a front mount install (cheap one), and only between sertain speeds. from what we can tell must be the air going through the fins and whistling. you said you got a new radiator, is it a good quality one. might be the same thing but with your radiator fins. just an idea.

from what i remember the official amount as per the nissan workshop book is 1.5L of diff oil. electronic boost controller??

as far i can tell those wires are for a float level for low power steering fluid. mine are broken of and my steering runs fine. i'd say your speedo cable is on its way out. i've had this problem before, bouncey speedo, hicas light and heavy steering. turned out the square drive on the end of the speedo cable was starting to round off and kept slipping. eventually it rounded off completey and speedo, hicas and power steering just stopped.

i'd get paranoid that a rock might flick up there and somehow get stuck between the belt and cam gear and snap my belt or make the cam skip a tooth. and we all know what that means Better to leave it on.

i'd say you'd need a tune. boost will be coming on quicker. which your existing fuel maps wont be tunned to.

no warning light came on. but it only completes the circuit when float is down the bottom. i'll test it when i get my car back together by touching the wires together. cant test when ign flicked to on because all the lights are already lit up. cheers

your clutch just sound like its on its way out.

cause: could be air bubble in the lines. oil cant be compressed no matter what temp it is. but air can. when you car is cold, and air bubble will be fairly dense(small volume) so when you press the clutch you don't compress in down much before it will push/move the oil, say 1/4 stroke, so you still have 3/4 of usefull push. when you release the clutch the gas doesnt decompress much and your clutch picks up early, or normally. but once your car heats up the gas(air bubble) expands and its volume it bigger. so then when you press you clutch you have to compress the gas down much more before it will move/push the oil. so you have already used up some of you clutch pedal stroke to compress the gas, say half stroke, and your only left with half usefull push. so when you release th clutch the gas will decompress first , half your return stroke, and your clutch then picks up much later than when it is cold. fix: bleed lines through.

its not worth the hassel converting N/A to turbo, too much stuff to swap over. works out better to get a turbo motor and drop it in.

In a R32 GTST there are two wires coming out of the top of the power steering reservoir. What are they for??? my guess is some kind of float level switch (magnetic), when i move the float up and down the shaft and do a continuity test i get an on switch when the float is down the bottom and the signal is broken once i move it back up agian. i cant see any light on the dash that would resemble low p/s fluid. or would it have something to do with the HICAS? i accidently broke the wires off the top the other week,. they were all brittle and just fell of when i was checking my levels. the steering has been fine with no dramas. Just wondering if its fine to just leave them broken off? anyone know? can't reattach them as they are broken off right where they enter the cap. also i have a HICAS lock bar so i'm not concerned if its hicas related.

try super pro, they've got bushes for nearly ereything. i've heard good things about them. can get them easily aswell. http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro_catalogue.html

have you disconnected your aac valve so the car sits on base idle. stops it from jumping around. also you might have to double loop the wire on the igniter to get a correct signal for the timming light.

turboing a factory N/A engine can end up costing you more than just getting a turbo motor, and will probably make less power than a factory turbo model. you also have to take into account that most of the fittings, gaskets, etc on a non turbo engine aren't made to take boost pressure.

3" exhaust, FMIC, Fuel computer(SAFC, EManage is better) and tune, rb25 turbo, Pod or better panel filter. should be good for about 180rwkw with everything else std. injector on like 90% duty cycle mind you. std fuel pump is good for about that but they are old, and you dont really want it to fail or under fuel, Bosch 044 is good upgrade. cheap and easy setup with good power and driveable unless you've got a big budget

best way to describe pinging is like a hand full of gravel being thrown at your engine. i'd say check the base timing, advance or retard it to far in either direction will cause pinging. another thing would be to check you knock sensor signals, see what your O2 sensor signal is like (even though the ecu goes closed loop under hard acceleration), and check your fuel pressure reg.

try here http://nissan-skyline-gtr.info/specs/2000_aug/

aren't these the crappy chinesse ones?

z32

front of the engine and it looks like this: three bolts and its off. first mark its position with a nikko line on the top of the CAS to the timing belt cover.