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QWK32

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Everything posted by QWK32

  1. easy way to test is to do a continuaty test with a multimeter, hook it up on the pins on the gearbox side of the plug and then put it in gear then back out, if it switches that you neutral switch
  2. hmmmmm.......... Do you mean the 4 door?
  3. thats insane
  4. if you grab a hold of the yoke does it stop, or want to keep going. could be the syncro's spinning it but normally with a tail shaft on a connected to the diff it is enough resistance to hold it.
  5. i've got a short shifter in my 32 (not sure if the lights are triggered exactly the same) but it has no effect on the reverse lights.
  6. gtt injectors are 370cc. thats quite a step up. do you have some sort of fuel tuneable ecu? 270cc should be good for about 190ish rwkw. (if my calcs are right)
  7. i wouldn't use PTFE tape (plumbers tape) on your sump plug. bits of it will break off and get sucked up your oil pickup. you could get it tapped out, as long as there is enough meat there to tap into. i don't think most mechanics would have the tap your after. if you are looking at tapping the hole out also look into Helicoils (thred repair).
  8. 270cc i believe
  9. usually changed when you replace your clutch, unless its reall really bad. the last clutch kit i got even came with the throw out bearing.
  10. the dimensions are LxWxH : 845 x 660 x 685
  11. that sound would be the throw out bearing, the one that presses on your pressure plate fins when your clutch is in. nothing to loose sleep over. on one of the sides of the gearbox there is a level plug, cant remember which side. can be a pain to get to unless jacked up a bit or on a hoist.
  12. correct. BNR32
  13. they are for the front spoiler not the rear. there was this optional extension bit (lip) for the bottom of the front bar.
  14. when you say you take the lines off to see how much fuel comes out, are you keeping the fuel pump running by directly powering it or something? i just thought that the pumps primed for about 5 seconds and shut back off again when your switch key to on???
  15. ^^^^^^^ what he said. when i installed my alarm i had to buy a central locking kit aswell so it would all work ok.
  16. does the car jerk or shake when the knocking sound occurs? and at what sort of timing is it, really fast knocking, 1 secong intervals????
  17. are you running a bleed valve on the wastegate?
  18. thanks. another thing what are the tyre specs?
  19. whats is the stud pattern on the rims. same as all other skylines?
  20. hot pipe should be ok, just don't boost it! i've help a mate solve a problem the same as yours but with a rb20det in to vl. fuel send and return lines to the fuel rail were hooked up the wrong way round. just to clear things up did you turbo the na motor or swap the motor for a rb20det? also have you bled the coolant through through the motor, removing any air pockets. an over heating motor will stall and fart and carry on
  21. i second what bubba said. my gauge is the same 1/2 to 2/3 and my consult reading too, around 80C
  22. forget the turbo timer reading, i got one, and a wide band o2 sensor and the timer a/f reading is so far off the mark its not funny. another thing to check would be to make sure your throttle on/off switch is switching. also you say you have a safc, has anyone been playing with it and accidently changed one of your afm in or out settings or type of afm it is.
  23. i think that mec- number on the silver sticker is the code for the type of chip it is, memory size etc.
  24. that bottom cover wont come off without removing the harmonic balancer.
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