QWK32

if your alternator was stuffed your battery would go flat and eventually you would be able to start your car at all. just and idea but sounds like you maybe have a loose or dodgey wire that is on you ignition barrell that sets the on position, power to your power windows and ecu and so on. i'd be checking that for a start. your head lights have power all the time and your stereo gets juice from acc position.

whats the condition of your clutch master and slave cylinder? also give redline gear oil a try, good stuff. as for reverse, when it wont go in try shifting it into 3rd first then back down into reverse.

the safc adds/subtracts a percentage of the current reading of airflow at the rpm points and also taking into account your throttle %. it will still add/trim the tune percentage for that rpm point regardless of the boost pressure. using you eg. say at 15psi, 5000rpm, 100%Throttle, you have 300cfm and tune the safc to remove 5% at that point = 285cfm then at 10psi, 5000rpm, 100%Throttle, you have 200cfm and the tune is unchanged (5%) you get = 190cfm the ecu then does the rest for what its knows as to how much fuel is needing for 5000rpm, full throttle and 190cfm or 285cfm. also take into account that you have changed one of the varibles from the original tune so there is no saying that the tune will be exactly right. on the safc2 you can have two maps, you could get one tuned at 15psi and one at 10 psi.

yeah. your right. got my numbers mixed up

got a timing light?

go repco or similar and ask for a vl one, they are exactly the same.

what is the tps voltage when you aren't pushing the accelerator? round 0.4v - 0.5v is good.

AAC valve: IGN on: battery voltage, Cranking: 2-3v, Idling cold: 6-7v, Idling warm: 8-10v O2 sensor : 0v to 1v rapidly changing between them at idle. (if sensor is ok and car runs good) AFM : approx 0.8v when no air blown across and 2.0v at 2000rpm. 5v max aac valve is your cold start throttle bypass. to help your car idle smooth when its cold.

this is my ride, slowly getting to the stage i want it at.

the safc only changes the afm signal voltage so the ecu is tricked into think it is getting less/more air flow. so if you tune the safc to trick the ecu that its getting more airflow then it really is it will compensate and inject more fuel. thats how you can tune the a/f maps with it. i cant see any reason why the gtr injectors cant be used. you need the resistor pack so they will work with the high impedance signal from the standard ecu and the safc to tune the amount of fuel going in. bigger injectors = more fuel. you would then need the safc to reduce the amount of fuel being injected so that you aren't running rich on say light throttle. and visa versa on full throttle, more fuel may be needed.

just went and looked at mine. same as that.

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/Greddy_Profec_B_manual.pdf this one?

23

as far as i understand the o2 sensor readings are only used when the car is idling. but to test to see if is working properly you need to get a multimeter and probe the o2 sensor signal wire. 0.0 volts is the highest lean reading and 1.0 volts is the highest rich reading you will get. its works out to be the range of 10.0:1 to 20.0:1 afrs. at idle the volts should jump quickly frome on of these values to the other. this isn't an accurate reading of your cars true afrs though just enough to tell if your oxygen sensor is working properly. also r32 gtsts rich out heaps when you give them a bit.

try this thred, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=166148&hl= they're selling some stock rb20det injectors and located in bris

just found this http://article1.rboosted.com/fueltech2.html

i've heard people say its 36, but then i also have heard its around 45

i use iridiums regapped to 0.8mm and don't have a problem

i've been running them in my car(r32 gtst) for ages without a problem

do you know what sort of power you where making?

this happened to me. it bounced around for about a week then just died completely. on mine it was the drive on the end of the cable at the dash cluster end that was rounded off. this was causing it to only grab for a bit then slip. hence the bouncing. i reakon just get a new cable, they don't cost much, i paid about 90 through nissan. took me about 20-30min to change.

where you located?

you might be able to try a gregorys VL book. pritty mutch the same box.

either your speedo cable has broken, the square drive for the speedo on the end of the cable is worn, the cable has come undone from the gear box or fallen off the back of the dash. check them all out. i'm sure that the hicas and powersteering need a reading from the speedo to work. on mine the square drive wore out, my speedo stopped working. my hicas light come on and the power steering stopped working. changed the cable and it was all sorted out. cost about $90 brand new from nissan. easy to change aswell. i have seen a thred out there on how to change it. do a search.

you can get these sleeves called speedy sleeves. they are designed for this type of problem. its quite common for seals to wear down shafts like this. they are really thin and come with the tool to knock them on with. then you just remove the lip that the tool sit's on with a pair of pliers. be carefull when you knock it on that it doesn't damage the seal. you can get them from any bearing shop. and i'm sure they aren't too expensive.