QWK32

R33 actuators don't run more than a stagea one, they are still a 5psi actuator with the solenoid bleeding it of to 7psi. Cheap options are to get a manual boost tee, the turbotech ones are highly recommended. Or get a R32 GTST actuator as Tom said, they are 10psi.

thats normal tom. i did a bit of testing when i installed my aftermarket pump. at idle the fuel pump was only seeing ~8v. when you start the car, for 30 seconds the pump see's the full ~13v before dropping back to ~8v. i couldn't take the car out on the road as the rear was in pieces, so i didn't test the switch over point for full voltage while driving, i imagine its something like as soon as you hit the throttle it ups the voltage. if you want to bypass this let me know and i'll send you the wiring changes diagram i made up.

yep, thats common. and you will sit there scratching your head for hours trying to figure out why the drivers side door wont lock, i know, i wasted half a day trying to figure the door locking system out. basically the white box on the passenger side is the receiver for the keyless entry, two internal relays (lock and unlock) signal the drivers side door to lock / unlock and also trigger those same functions on the white box on the drivers side. the box on the drivers side is the central locking box, as well as doing a couple other things like dome light supervision etc. there is a difference between central locking and keyless entry. the stagea's central locking looks for a signal from the drivers side door i.e turning a key, and then actuates the other doors. keyless entry will operate all the doors. the wires your grounding are most certainly the central locking signal wires to the drivers side box to lock / unlock all the other doors. you need to tap into the keyless entry trigger points, and that is all done internally in the passenger side box, which means soldering to a circuit board to switch the lock and unlock relays mounted on this board. have a look at the attached PDF, its a little write up i did a while ago when i installed mine. Stagea Door Lock Relays.pdf

here is a very basic way to do it with just 2 relays. it will light up your blinker / repeaters with the parkers or headlights (whichever you choose) and make sure that when you indicate left of right the blinker flashes in sync with the side and rear one. the only thing that wont work is the two fronts as hazard lights. it is doable but would require 2 diodes or another 2 relays. i can add to the drawing to show you if your keen.

Hopefully the new update fixes the random freeze ups I've been having. Keep getting stuck on the grey "GT" loading screen. How big is the update Tom? The ps3's wireless is so slow. Takes forever to download big updates.

i found i was constantly running out of money early on. had to keep grinding the same race just to win enough to buy a car required in another. once you get up past professional money isn't an issue, and doing seasonal events is good if you have the car for it, prize pots can be up to a couple of million. i keep buy cars all the time, mainly nissans and rare ones that pop up in the used car dealership an i've still got over 12mil, so i think money flow isn't as big of an issue latter on. my biggest mistake was i ignored bspec until i got up to about professional in aspec. i had to go back and buy alot of cars i sold just to compete in those races.

there is a couple of options that i can't make out.

i have a 260 and a RS4-S, both black, and thinking about it i dont think i've seen any other colour except for black in the used car lot. i haven't used them much, they just aren't quick enough. i'm just finishing off extreme in A-spec and about half way through in B-spec, then its the endurance races. has anyone done these yet? the 24hour races will be a killer. Tom, if you want some cars add me and i shoot some though, PSN is Stagea99. i do the backup - send - restore trick so i don't loose any cars when i send them

Any lift in head hight a RB30 block gives would be a benefit to any larger frame low mounted turbo. Its not really the strut tower that is an issue but the chasis rail. On my RB25 with a low mounted GT35 I have bugger all clearance between the comp cover and chasis rail, even had to manipulate some of the AC lines mounted on the rail to give the turbo better clearance. There is more than enough clearance to the strut tower, even if it comes over another 5 or so mm. That extra clearance to the chasis rail that the added height the RB30 gives would be good.

i think you'll find that DAYZ options are fitted after factory. they are a dealer fitted, but nissan approved, option. search the stagea section for the DAYZ threads, plenty of info floating around. if you cant find the threads with the brochures pics let me know and i'll dig up the copies i have saved, they are interesting to have a look at.

here mate, cant see any factory options fitted.

just remembered, i think the "2K" means its a 2 door. 4 door shows up as something like "4K". i'll see if i can check what the 7AA is, there is a model code break down in fast, give me a sec edit: sorry mate, i cant make sense of the model code breakdown for the "7AA" bit. the rest of it i can, just not that last bit.

i'm not 100% on what everything means but i can tell you that the car is a R32 GTR, 5sp Manual, HICAS, 4WD, that was made in September 1994 i think the colour code 326 means its a white car and the interior colour "G" i don't know. i also cant remember what the "2K" means sorry.

first shot with most of the options then i scrolled down to show the last option on the list

check out this thread mate. FAST Thread its the best way to go about getting your VIN fasted on SAU that keeps everyone happy. there wont be an issue posting up your VIN but if your really not keen on the idea shot me a PM and i'll run it through.

I know, for me music is as good as manditory when driving. I'm lucky my trip to work is only 15min, if it was like an hour i think I'd go crazy. I already find myself humming along with the tone of the exhaust note lol

My JVC 7" touchscreen unit has died, screen is completely dead and it plays music for about 10 seconds then shuts off. It's only 10 months old so took it out and sent it off for repair. Im surprised it acually broke and it was still in the warrenty period, that never happens. Now I have to drive around 2-3 weeks without music!

I'm with just car, I didn't get a call though. My renewal is up in march so I'll see what it goes up to. I got all excited about cheaper insurance when I turned 25, it come down by about $100, before lifting $300 the following year when I was 26. My premium is $1100, $400 excess, list of mods as long as my arm.

Try searching and see what the R34 guys are doing, I remember a member, 666DAN, was making up little circuits or something to disable/control it. From memory he had a link in his signature for them. If you just disconnect it, I'm sure it will throw up an error code on a stock ecu. If you are going full aftermarket ecu it won't be an issue. If you have nistune you can turn off DTC's but you'd have to check if TCS feedback is one of them.

Tom are you sure it's a spacer and not just markings in the plenum casting giving the illusion of a spacer?

WTF, i haven't really had a chance to jump on SAU much over the break and when I come back on and start scanning threads i find the top threads are all about a bunch of blokes winging at each other. I don't understand, did we all get a set of overies for Xmas? I come on SAU to talk shit about cars, not get the latest episode of Dr Phil. The title "all stagea infighting" is B/S, To me it looks like the fighting is only between a handful if people taking everything a little too seriously and the rest of us in the stagea section are sitting back thinking WTF is going on. Come on guys, wash the sand out of your vaginas and get over it.

From memory the MEC number Paul is going in about is the type of chip in the ECU. so like he said you may have trouble putting say a MEC123 chip into an ECU board that is designed/programmed to read a MEC987 chip. The reason people swap just chips around is to reflash the tune, you pull the old chip out and install a new one with a tune burnt on it. It makes sense when doing this to keep the chip types the same. Because your looking at using the whole ecu you should be ok using either the 0V800 or 0V801. I'm certain there wasn't any changes in sensor types or wiring between the 98-99 run of ecu's (800) and the 99-on (801). also, either ecu is able to be nistuned. I know it's a different car but still a RB Nissan, I ran a 89 ecu in my 92 R32 without an issue. Edit: should also add that the 89 ecu had a different MEC number to the original 92 ecu and I had no issues.