JET-25L

Make sure the clips to the coilpacks are connectly properly and that there aren't any bent pins inside the clips. Sounds a bit sus if it only just happened when they connected the tuning gear up... Doubtful that it's the computer. Sounds like spark to me! If you haven't already got aftermarket coilpacks you should have them before you go for the tune anyway as that will surely be a wall anyhow if youre looking for power and still have stockers.

Yeah i would get them.. I know a few people running rx7 injectors in their rb series engines because of the multiple jets for the mist effect rather than a single jet. As above more spread in the chamber = better efficiency and combustion. Steve

Yep you need to machine it out so the wastegate flap can function properly otherwise you will be making more boost than you desire = trouble

Choose your workshop and then choose your computer if you ask me. Your tune is only as good as your tuner! Haltechs are significantly dearer than the microtech last time i checked. Depends which features you need i guess.

Yep just replace it... not worth the risk for the couple of dollars it will cost to get it back to good as new.

Sheesh doesn't sound good.. What colour smoke and where from exactly? Anything out the exhaust? I would suggest resetting the ecu or doing the usual piping checks as the hunting around and stalling sounds like what happens when you've blown a cooler pipe or the like. However if it's producing smoke from the engine bay then i daresay that's got nothing to do with it. How does it run before it "warms" up? If you keep a bit of throttle on it to stop it from stalling what happens? More smoke than before??

Why not add some humour into the argument?? Why does it have to be all hatred and swearing that's why. Anyway what a way to go off topic. Nice car must be a real weapon i bet you're glad to have it all done!

Disconnect the battery and pump the brakes is what i heard??? If you leave your wipers/headlights/stereo on for half an hour or so i'll be surprised if your car will start let alone idle. Anyway here's the link Resetting stock ecu

Hmmm okay really really long shot... but does your crank angle sensor have a little pin in the middle of the shaft? After i did my 100 000k'er i couldn't get my car to start... it would just crank and crank. Went to swap cas's with an rb20 one and i noticed it had a little pin that runs through the middle of the shaft... must be something to grip on or something i'm not too sure it's been a while since i had a look at it.. but i simply made one up to suit and put it in and car started first time. I'm sure that makes no sense at all but if it does it's worth a try... only takes a second so at least you can rule that out! Steve.

Hmmm i've forgotten some details from the start but.. so you'll be driving.... and you give it a bit and it sorta just cuts everything... then comes back on?? If you hold that throttle will it keep doing it? My car did this for a bit ages and ages ago... I put new plugs in and it went away for a couple of months... and then i changed the plugs again and it hasn't come back... so i suggest you change the plugs and see if that makes a difference. I think the stalling issue might be completely seperate to the loss of power issue. Check the gasket on the bov and also the condition of the valve as many people have issues with atmo bov's and rough idles/stalling issues.

If you really want a highflow i suggest buying one second hand or buying a blown highflow for a couple of hundred then taking that to mtq to get rebuilt. Could get away with it for under a grand easily then. The machining of the housings is the bulk of the cost. Price also goes up depending what size impeller you want as well as some can be $200-$300. At the end of the day a highflow for 2 grand is a lot of coin... And chances are you will be wanting a computer or something after that as well because your afm will be maxing out so it doesn't end with the turbo that's for sure!

Yeah i agree with 3lit3_32. Even if i bought a brand new garrett i would take it somewhere just to get a quick once over and make sure it was alright. A lot easier to do that when u just pull it out of the box rather than something sus going on when it's on the car. I know a lot of people that have bought these cheaper turbo's... there's a ta45 model on ausrotary at the moment for the $500 mark brand new. It's a chinese turbo and made by the hundreds im sure but there are cars running consistant 10's on them so they can't all be bad. I recommend reading that thread that i think paulr33 or r31nismoid wrote on ebay turbo's before you consider one. I'm not saying you shouldn't get one as you might be happy with it.. but in worst case scenario it could also result in needing a new engine as well so be wary:)

Lol i duno if it's the photoshop job but ur car looks too low in the back. I must say those wheels look quite nice though!

Personally i rather the look of the amber indicators than the clear ones.. I remember reading your tutorial a while back on it though. Interesting! What exactly did you do to your headlights??

Ha i peeled my factory ones off then thought gosh darn how am i going to get this back on properly. Went to spotlight... bought some velvet looking material... traced it out exactly the same as the old one... used some "Septone Spray Adhesive" from supercheap and masked up all the edges... sprayed the trim and the material i was going to place on there... left it for 5 mins as the directions on the can say... then placed it on and used a bread and butter knife to carefully push it down the edges and then left it to dry. It has a LOT to do with what material you are using. I tried it with vinyl. Terrible... I didn't even bother letting it dry as i knew it was going to look like sh!t. Best to use something thin like a felt/velvet material that has some slight stretch in it... vinyl or thicker materials are always going to want to flatten out. I considered cutting the trim out and glueing the new piece around it and then somehow attaching it back to the trim... fibreglassing perhaps... but more trouble than it's worth and the more cutting you do the more chance of *ucking it up you have. Cheers.

So you got the legal 35% all the way around?? I got 18% all the way around. Best thing i did to my car after suspension upgrade. Awesome driving around in the middle of the day with the windows up no glare at all.

Simple and the empty style but we all like pics so here it is!

Just something on the bcp6es plugs... i had the iridium version of these in my car originally... then changed to the $4 BKR6E plugs with a smaller gap and it ran so much better. I always use these plugs now and i recommend these to anyone that brings an rb25 into my work. rgr34 a whistling noise is usually a vacuum leak... doesn't necessarily affect idle too much but when you get up it it will be easily noticeable. Does it struggle to make that 10psi now? I'd be checking everything carefully and making sure it's all legit. If you've got a leak between the turbo and manifold you should be able to hear air blowing out of it or heaps louder exhaust noise from the engine bay. Good luck!

Is there ever any warning before a fuel pump lets go.. or is it just working one minute not working another then bang goes engine. If it's maxed out can it also seize/ stop working altogether?

Damn mine blew about 2 weeks ago but it's all up and running again. They must all be throwing the towel in these days. It's not that hard to change the turbo if you get another standard one. Could do it in an afternoon. With that said a workshop probably wouldn't charge that much if it only took an afternoon so.. Just do it yaself and learn lots along the way;)

As far as im aware the "v1" "v2" "v3" means absolutely nothing except the casting number. It has no difference between the numbers. My series 2 had a 45v1 on it and i can guarantee it came like that from factory. I now have a highflowed rb25 turbo and it came with 45v3 on the housing. Means nothing. Are you sure you're not mistaking it for the black nylon series 2 wheel as it does sorta look like a metal wheel... Unless your turbo has been highflowed otherwise there would be no reason to change that wheel. It's the turbine side that spits anyway there would be no reason for the front to let go before the back. And the series 2's still have a single blade from memory...

Umm ive had endless pm's about this exhaust so yeah no more please! Consider it sold pending payment.

wow that's cheap!

Ha unfortunately I don't get to travel much so the only way it's going to get to anyone is by courier:(