JET-25L

can't you just make one up??

Could always buy it as a spare;) ha ha

I have a stock r33 gtst exhaust that I would like to get rid of. I'm sure everyone knows what it looks like. Asking a carton for this. Want it gone asap... The trust exhaust is mild steel and 3.5" from the cat converter, into a trust muffler (badge on muffler for proof) and then out the back in two cannons. Has removable silencers in it. Really nice exhaust note and non restrictive. Asking $170 for this. Will freight at buyers cost. Steve.

I have a stock r33 gtst exhaust that I would like to get rid of. I'm sure everyone knows what it looks like. Asking a carton for this. Want it gone asap... The trust exhaust is mild steel and 3.5" from the cat converter, into a trust muffler (badge on muffler for proof) and then out the back in two cannons. Has removable silencers in it. Really nice exhaust note and non restrictive. Asking $170 for this. Will freight at buyers cost. Steve.

Anyone? Possibly swap for injectors..

And are we talking 1600 neg for just wheels... or wheels and tyres?

Love these wheels. Why do you want 8 of the same may I ask?

Played around with the wastegate arm and redid a few hoses. Car runs alright now. Just lag laggy. I can live with that though.. Steve.

Yeah i'm gonna pull the dump pipe back off... make sure the wastegate flap is 110% closing correctly and make sure the arm is pulling it shut... when that's off also make sure the wheels are still spinning together and are tight... after that I think there's nothing more i can really do and will gladly pay a shop to fix whatever it is.

I put the standard one back on for now so i didn't have to play with adjustments while i was sussing it out.

Hey yeah i can the wastegate flips open and closed without the arm attached to it just as easily as the old one. I just went for another drive.... a big one this time... at 47% throttle (i went more than this) it's 58% airflow @ 4600rpm. It's like nothing nothing nothing then if i give it more the boost goes up to like 5psi and then when i back off the bov goes off like normal but the turbo makes a really faint spool like it does when you blow a cooler pipe so perhaps it is just leaking somewhere afterall.. Is a highflow going to make it THAT much laggier?:s Perhaps it's been bored out too much?? Doubtful as it still utilizes the same front and rear housings. I'm just waiting for someone to say that it will be different to drive with a highflow than standard but it's not that.. Which leads me to my next question... if the turbo is capable of producing even small amount of boost does that rule out that the turbo is the problem?? Or not necessarily... *checks all hoses and piping again..* Thanks for everyones help...

Hey yeah there is a gasket... It doesn't go to 0 straight away.. if i drive it it slowly climbs to a tiny bit below 0 and then doesn't go up any higher even if foot is flat.. grrrrr

Err not that it's really going to help much.... but anything stand out obvious wrong from these couple of photos lol. The oil feed banjo isn't sealing 100%.. i need to fix that but I don't think that would be doing it..

Is it even possible for the exhaust wheel to be spinning on the shaft?? That can't even get tightened by the looks of it.. If it can I have no idea how to anyway.. If i try and spin the front one way and the back the other it doesn't work... and there's no up/down side to side play or anything like that so... Blocked intercooler from blades of the front of the old turbo???:s

Err no it doesn't... that's a steel wheel and you can tell it's been highflowed and bored out because both the wheels are way bigger than standard and on the standard turbo there is a raised edge around the exhaust wheel... whereas this one is level.. only way they can do it without changing housings.

I was actually in such a hurry to start it up with the cat hollowed out that i started bolting it back on and forget to look up at the exhaust wheel... but it will be the same as it was when it was off a day before... yes there is an exhaust wheel.... i've also though that... coz i had to drive home when i blew the old one and yeah kinda feels the same... just not pouring smoke out like it did with the blown one. The front wheel on the old turbo had 2 blades that were very slightly chipped... i'm not sure if that was done at the same time or if it was from ages ago... I don't think that would have done much though?? What do you's think?? I just can't accept that it's the turbo... it's 100km old (then previous car got written off) and looks immaculate/spins really well... the wheels aren't rubbing on the housing or anything... no noises... I'm at witts end with it I don't know whether to just take it to a shop or... Here's the turbo...

as for boost gauge i'm just using the standard one... which was working fine a week ago on the old turbo... so back to the drawing board.

ahh well i just spent a few hours pulling the dump and cat off... i smashed all the honeycomb out and stuck the hose through it (closest thing i could find) and the nozzle came out the other end of it... so there's no restriction in that.. and the side of the cat i could see (catback side) was fine. Started the car up.... no difference... same thing............................................................... Dammit!

Yeah a mate just suggested it might be the cat blocked.... my dump front and cat are all welded together... i checked the other end of it when i pulled it off the other day and it seemed alright.. i had to turn it upside down and bang it on the concrete and the old turbo wheel and sh!t came out but maybe it did more damage?? completely blocked it up?? That would make it have massive backpressure and not be able to spool up right?

Well i just checked all the intercooler pipes again... let it run and got a mate to yank the throttle cable and felt them all to see if I could feel any air escaping but they all seem fine and i can't get any movement out of them at all if i shake them around... all the vac lines are perfect and i can blow through all of them so there's no blockage... and they're on exactly the same as before.. Another funny thing... not sure if this is normal or not... but when i started the car the compressor wheel was spinning really slowly... then if i give it a squirt it starts spinning quickly and keeps spinning quickly even when it drops back to idle revs.... is that normal?? Is the turbo supposed to change rpm like that...

Well if it's that i should let it idle like before without the afm and see if the shaft is spinning faster than the compressor wheel.. I'll give that a go or see if i can tighten the nut at all.

Well before i could just give the throttle cable a tug and the turbo would spool and then the bov would sound... now it's doing neither... and no matter what i do/how i drive i can't get the turbo to spool or produce boost. If i go for a hardish drive down the street the boost gauge doesn't even get close to the 0 on the gauge... However both wheels are spinning, wastegate flap opens and closes when disconnected from the arm.. the actuator spring is working fine when i pull it... and hmmmm Thanks for everyone help. I'm starting to consider the possibility that it's the turbo... Anyone else think that's a possibility?? Is the compressor wheel supposed to be slowly spinning when it's just on idle? I can concentrate on one blade the whole time it's spinning that slowly.. but if i pull the throttle it spins rapidly like you'd expect it should..

Alright i took it for a bit of a harder drive just then and i can get the bov to open very very slightly but boost still isn't above 0 and yeah. When idling how fast is the turbo supposed to be spinning??

Hey both. I was free revving it at first then i thought no i'll take it for a drive... went about 100m up the street and back and i accelerated just hard enough to where the turbo should be spooling.. maybe went to 3000rpm but there was nothing. Was just running really rich. It's highflowed it shouldn't be that different coming on boost pretty much same as before. The blowoff valve doesn't make a single noise either..

Depends how much you want to spend really... And if you want a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo. If you supply the turbo the highflowing/rebuilding cost is usually around 1000-1500 if you want to keep it journal bearing. Depending how cheap you find a second hand highflow or even a blown highflow would determine which path to travel. Rebuilding journal bearing turbo's is relatively cheap compared to a ball bearing.. as in 500-600 for a rebuild compared to 1000ish for a ball bearing rebuild. If you get yours highflowed however you can be guaranteed that your banjo's and oil/water lines will line up... you also build a relationship with your workshop and get a warranty. I don't know brisbane so can't help you out any further:) Cheers.