GTS4WD

Mate.. in all seriousness.. Spend the money on a set of headers.. you will acutally see gains with these opposed to a cat.. Page isnt responding.. but the money is worth spent in other places of the car.

LOL!.. sorry guys!.. I guess I got a bit too excited about doing something.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Z3...69#entry3264869 See post six http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/300zx See 1996 development one..

bah.. every tom dick and harry has a turbo skyline.. Theres already some info up on this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html its only going to get bigger and better! This is only one option though..

Awesome write up! I wish I had this when i did mine! Did you find that the car progressivly began to start harder and harder? Im almost certain that the car starts too rich. At first in a 1/4 of a crack it kicked alive.. but now it will crank for 4 or so full rotations before it kicks.. If so.. how did you overcome this?

lol.. I hope nobody does this..

Do you see the "sticky-outy" bit on the gearbox on the drivers side.. Transfer case.. See the big black pole.. drive shaft.. Wonder on over to the front passenger side.. See the exhaust? Slap your exhaust shops in the face.. Headers/exhaust kits will fit 4WD and ehaust have nothing to do with one another.. Just makes you wonder about the "workshops" that are around today..

Every single exhaust woprk shop you have been to.. all 10 of them.. do not know what they are talking about. I have personaly taken both my gearbox/engine and front diff out. The transfer case/diff/front driveshaft are all on the DRIVERS side The exhaust manifold is on the PASSESNGERS side There is absolutely NO doubt that you can fit extractors/exhaust mods from one to another.. I have placed my order for headers on my R32 GTS4 with a S2 RB25DE Would you like photos/diagrams of the 4wd system and a RWD set up?

And why would it not fit?.. There is not logical reason why it would not fit.. Just because you have an ATTESSA driveline does not mean you cannot buy extractors..

LOL @ horns!

Buy an R31/VL Both cars a good platforms for midification.. Its a beater.. Parts are cheap as chips.. Learn to drive and drive well.. RWD can be a bit to handle.. so learn oversteer and how to control it. Your bound to get a few dents and scratches on your first car.. and you dont want them on your pride and joy.. Especially if you paye 13K on an R33 just to have a massive scratch down the side of it.. 50% of p-platers have an accident in their first year. You dont want to write off an R33 you just baught. If you buy a 2door insurance will go up because its a) a skyline and b) because its a 2 door.. its a sports car.. and ur a p-plater.. and ur 18.. yikies.. thats my 2c

four door lub.. why would you buy a 2dr?.. 4doors are so sexy! Congrats mate!

hmm.. its a little hard to read.. But I dont know how to format on the forums

WOOO! EUGENE FOR PM! YOU HAVE MY VOTE!

Yip.. dont bother.. on such low pwer applications it will not help Theres the ghetto way and knock the contents out of the cat - this will lead to black buildup on the rear bar.. louder exhaust tone according to applications and mods.. and occasionally small flames out of the exhaust..

The power of an NA engine is larger power band. This is achieved by an increase in cc's -as in an RB30DE and the compression ratio. High performance NA engines run high CR's as this gives you better low down torque and will push your engine in high RPM faster. Much of the power being made will be gained via the head. So pay much attention to this aspect of the engine. RB30DE (3L Double over-head cam): Made by using an RB30E and an RB25DE head Block - RB30E (2982 cc, bore: 86.0 mm, stroke: 85.0 mm) NA block (found in R31's and Holden VL's) - The Rb30 crank is nitered and is strong enough to cop a fair few KW - Rb30 rods are ok for a simple low - mid power/CR engine but will need to be replaced with aftermarket items once you get cams as the engine will be reving to far beyond what the rods were designed for. Stock rods wont take much more than 6500RPM. Aftermarket rods will stop you from throwing a con rod/snapping/cracking at these high rpm’s. - You can use RB30 or RB25DE pistons. - **yet to be confirmed & CR using RB25DE pistons** Using stock RB30E pistons will give you a CR of ~8.2:1. This could easily be bumped up to 9.5 - 10:1 (~2mm shaved) CR for regular street use. It is possible to run up to 12:1 CR before you need to switch to ethanol fuel where high CR's can be achieved. - Cam belt tensioner needs to re-positioned. Using a tensioner and idler the timing belt tension to be greater than the factory recommended spec of 20kg's. You can use a second tensioner in place of the idler bearing in order to bring the belt tension down to the factory recommended spec of 20kg's. It is possible to use the factory tensioner and idler locations however, you will be required to use two tensioners to get the correct belt tension. Some do not recommend this method as the belt comes too close together. - A 152 teeth 20kg timing belt must be used. - All GTR, R32 RB20/25 & VL/R31 RB30 water pumps and thermostats are interchangeable. - It is best to use an oil pump from a twin cam motor as these provide more flow and pressure. All RB oil pumps are interchangeable. The RB pumps do have a reliability issue and crack if used at 6500rpm+ without a crank collar. Therefore, for a high revving NA engine where much of the power is found in NA head a crank collar is a MUST! **Note** While the RB30 does have a strong bottom end it may need a freshen up as many of these engines have done +200,000km's. If you’re chasing big power out of an RB30DE you will also need to think about: - Bearings - ACL have race bearings - New rings - Molly ring sets or stock alternatives - Once the bottom end is back together the engine will also have to be balanced. It is best if this is done with the clutch and flywheel attached. - During track work and high temp conditions people have had problems with oil temperatures. An Oil gauge is recommended and oil cooler accordingly if needed. A cheap and low power 3L bottom end can be had for ~$500 A high power/high comp bottom end will need (excluding previous work) ~$1500 - ~$2000 Hardcore Race engine ~$3000 + Head: Rb25DE/RB25DET/RB26DETT VCT/NON- VCT - Rb20DE/T heads will work but with much machining which is expensive and will also have smaller ports making this an unfeasible option. - Rb26DETT heads are best flowing. The intake manifold also has more than one throttle body. An adaptor plate is needed to attach Rb26DETT manifold to RB25 head. - Rb25/26 heads have cc capacity of around 62-64cc's. Compared to the RB30 55-58cc's - All coolant/oil galleries line up without a problem - If your using a VCT head and wish to keep VCT you need to run an oil feed to the head using a T junction from somewhere in the block/sump. - R32 Rb25DE head studs will work without a problem - If your chasing higher power will need RB25DET valve springs as they are stiffer than the Rb25DE - Stock cams will work fine or you can buy aftermarket cams or get your stock cams re-grinded. The max regrindiable stock cam profile is 8.3mm & 255deg. Remembering that Lift if torque, duration is power. Adjustable Cam gears are recommended if using modified cams. GTR cams can also be regrinded to not use lifters **need to confirm** and are a cheap up-grade. - Port and polish is recommended if looking for power/response. Polish can be done with Brevil style drill and can be done in the backyard. Same with porting, yet for optimum performance, professional work is required. - Rb25 Exhaust manifold/headers can also be used in this application. A cheap stock Rb25 head could set you back ~$750 - $1000 (cost of head) A mildly modified head (excluding head) ~$700 - $1000 A heavily worked head (excluding previous work) ***(?????)*** Flywheel: - All of the RB20 & 25 Flywheels are interchangeable. Engine Mounts: - The RB30DE block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks. - If you want to run the stock RB25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the driver’s side and 12mm on the passenger’s side. You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwise the fan will munch it up. It is worthwhile to relieve the gearbox and centre bearing mount slightly. In an attempt to reduce driveline angles to an absolute minimum. ECU: - Once headwork is done and to extract more power a re-tune is required. - Rb25DE stock ECU's can be used but power will be limited. These ECU's are not mappable - If utilizing VCT an appropriate ECU is needed. - NA Z32 (300ZX 3L V6) ECU's are mappable, can be found with VCT variants and are more appropriate. - Apexi SAFC can be used to tune air/fuel mixtures - Aftermarkety stand alone ECU's (MoTec - Apexi's Power FC etc.) will be needed for high power applications Results" **taken from power results stickie thread** GTS_143 Model: R31 GTS2 Engine: Rb30DE Modifications: VCT, mild cams, ported head, lightened & balanced bottom end, big extractors & full 3" exhaust, 12:1 compression, twin XF TB's (throttle bodies), pod & CAI, twin thermos, spitfire coils, Link ECU. Power:149RWKW SKiT_R31 Model: 1987 R31 Skyline Ti Engine: RB30DE with VVT Modifications: Extractors, exhaust, twin tb, safc untuned, billet f/wheel, reground surecams, 10.5 compression, 18 degrees timing, 98ron ultimate Power: 150.9RWKW @ 172kmph an 507nm (374FtLb) torque at 144kmph Did I miss anything? Comments/Abuse/flame/Advise is all welcome!

If applied right.. herlequin pain can look amazing!.. -on the right car in and in the right setting.. and skylines are not the right car.. most herlequin paint jobs look SH*T!.. be very careful!.. you can easily tell when its a crap one.. its blatent! And terrible.. and jut UGLY!

there are so many threads that need to be cleaned up.. Ccould we promote one of us as mods?.. if we uask current mods? Thats way theres always one of us on here?

You have a tacho for speed.. A tacho for your revs why?.. its slow.. You get a slip at the end of the drag strip..

Yes if you weld it it will be ok as long as the flanges match. Metal cats.. unless the engine is working at very high RPM or your at least pushing 200kw.. dont bother.. you will see absolutely no gain..

Thats awesome Eug!.. We REALLY REALLY NEED THIS!.. What will we be helping you with?.. because at the moment its pretty spot on!.. =]

I thought it was called yankee

I just dont see a real use for it on an NA.. Its just another thing that im spending money on.. money which I can spend on other things.. Another thing that the car could get broken into for.. Another thing that can break and root around with other things.. Another thing that can cause problems.. Im spending petrol for no real reason.. and petrol is only gonna get more expensive.. but thats just my 2 cents..

lol.. its all gonna come out lookin the same way.. it is puuuuurdy though!

what are these events?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...ak-t177690.html I dont think its too bad.. If you need new lines.. do it.. plus its a sexy brake pedal feel afterwards.. definately worth it mate..