GTS4WD

Spot on.. also you dont need massive power to be quick.. just learn to abuse it..

lol.. there you go.. congrats, you understood NOTHING of what I said.. Its got NOTHING to do with the car you drive.. I know blokes that drive Mazda 2's that are quicker than hardcore 86's and workes 350's through thr twisties.. Power has next to NOTHING to do with drive skill

WOW!.. cool!.. shit.. thanks mate.. ANOTHER thing I want and gotta spend my money on... Cheers mate..

How many of the holes do aligne? And with an adaptor plate.. if you put a place something between the block and the diff.. it will raise the block, or lower the diff. According to which one it does, it will play around with geometry of the front drive shaft and miss aligne it. How do these adaptor plates work? Is it just a different diff housing? what about re-drilling into the block/housing so as they to align?

OH!.. THAT KIT! SOOOO HOT!

why? Gain? As in?

I think, bang for buck, 26/30.. It meets the requirments and is relativly cheap comparied to the other options.. Parts are quite readily available.. Just seems like the right choice..

Honestly.. on something where there is so much at risk - Id pay.. its not THAT much different in price.. Id be scared to bugger up the paint, finish, making sure its even.. But I also have next to no patience with fiddly things.. if it comes down to $200 for a roller.. and $300 to get it professionally.. Id personally get it done in a workshop.. This is not to say I like getting anything else in my car done by a shop.. I just think paint and certain body work things need to be dont proffessionally.. I dont trust other with any other area of my car..

Thats why it pays to shop around.. thats why the thread was started.. and Shanes a good bloke I just think.. $900 is a STUPIPD amount of money.. Especially for a uni kid!.. I figure.. with $900 I could get an awesome system! A re-tune, a shitload of random bits and peices - Seats, suspension goodies, guages etc. etc. etc. chip in a few hundred more.. and I got a Power FC, LSD, Coilovers, Brakes.. It just seems so much more practicle to spend that amount of money on other peices.

Gosh the GTR is REALY purrrrdddyyy.. Im still not quite sold on the new STi.. I think it may grow on me.. its an interesting shape.. The more I look, the more I like.. BRING ON THE NEW GEN GTR Vs. EVO X Vs. STi.. Lookin forward to the next Best Motoring DVD with the comparison! Drool..

Sell and buy.. because for a DE+T you need: (this is off the top of my head and very rough estimates.. Im sure I missed out on a few things) ECU ~$200 R33 Turbo Auto Turbo pistons Pistons (to get the compression ratio right).. ~$300 (???) (for a second hand DET pistons) Turbo ~$200 (for a second hand R33 turbo) Turbo manifold ~$100 You may need a new AFM ~$150 Rb25DET You may need a fuel pump ~$200 Boch 044 You may need new injectors ~$200 for DET items Labour ~$500 - at least So a rough total: ~$1850 So yeah.. its the rough price of a Rb25DET.. hunt around and you do find bargins now and again with engins needing cheap repairs. There are also cheap examples floating around. Shoot H@ME a pm and ask him. He just baught a front cut and just completed his RB25DET conversion.. Thats the thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t174698.html

??? Higher G-force the LESS FWT?.. wouldnt it be more?.. to offer more grip and stop it sliding?

So.. ok.. excuse the noob question.. Im just here to learn.. not prove a point.. But how does the ATTESSA system work. I heard so many different stories about steering angle, understeers. I understand that when the rears loose traction, the fronts kick in with a certain amount of front torque. Does the ECU control it? What are the finer points of the system? Im looking into buying a torque split controler..

WHAT!?! $900!?!?!?! For that price you'd almost expect an LSD to be thrown in as a free-bee! Thanks for the imput guys!.. a couple of PM's have been sent.. so Ill have to see whats happening.. I just think that $900 is a stupendus amount of money! Much appreciated fellas! Been awesome help!

Mate.. TRUST ME! I went from a 1.6L Pulsar to an NA 2.5L.. pushing about 105kw at the wheels. Its an r32 GTS4 weighing ~1400kg.. thats more than ur GTST the difference in that jump is significant!.. learn to use and abuse the power first!.. Learn how and when the engine works best.. and learn how to minipulate the car to extract the most out of the engine! Learn that, and you'll see how quick your car can be! It takes a while, and yes it more boring than just automatically having 300kw. But once you learn it, you will be able to minipulate the car in a whole new way and you'll be surprised the diffrence once you know this information. Hit up a track day, skid pan, drift day. Learn where your power band is, learn how to transfer the weight around, learn how to extract the full potential out of the engine.. then.. and only then.. should you think about power increase mate.. 300kw is a shit load of power!.. as said before.. give it a year.. or at least 6 months if your motivated to LEARN (not drive like a maniac and speed!).. then think about 220kw - 250kw.. modify all aspects of the car. Responce, brakes, suspention, cooling.. make the car "feel" better.. the.. as before.. learn the car.. better your skills so on.. so forth.. then go for 300kw.. thats just my 2c

V8 dont stand a chance..

Hay guys.. Im doing a 25/30 conversion and Im looking for a sump adptor plate for an RB30 so as it will mate up to my front diff. I know there is such a thing. Does anyone have one? How much? Where from? And how does it acctually work? If the wholes in the diff dont mate up to the holes in the bottom end, how do they get them to mate? Cheers guys!

You'll have to go on the site on the link I gave you and see.. Id say it would be something similar to a Nissan one.. I wouldnt be expecting anything amazing out of $10.. Just thought I might throw it in there.. see if it helps at all

Nope.. clearly remeber it running somwhere in the 10's

Hay guys!.. Im having trouble getting my ATTESSA to kick in when I want it. I have heard several schools of thought about this. a) keep your foot wleded to the floor from enrty to exit. Let it kick in as early as possible, use the AWD grip to propell you past the apex and through the exit. b) Plant your foot hard after the apex, let it kick in and use the AWD to grip and get you out of the corner. Any thoughts? What techniques do you use? Am I entering the corner with not enough speed for it to kick in? Am I on the power too late? Im still new to it.. so I tend to brake too early and dont carry enough speed through the corner as I still have the "fear" factor of "HOLLY SHIT!.. CORNER!".. and then spit chips cos I braked too early.. My biggest fear by far is loading up the rear outside wheel with too much weight/momentum, having it slide out, spinning and hitting something. If it starts to go.. will the VLSD grab, spin the wheels, loose traction and the ATTESSA kick in? Any advise is much appreciated!

Has been covered many a times.. Do a search.. or have a look. Im 99% sure that the R32 GTR box has SLIGHTLY (we are talking several teeth here) longer than the GTS4 from 1st to 3rd. From what I remeber reading.. the boxes are definately stronger than the R32 GTS and GTST boxes.. But essentially.. their pretty much the same..

Theres a group buy now for NA headers.. Its $10 for the gasket.. I could buy two and send you one.. or you could see if you can just buy the gasket.. worth an ask.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t192351.html

Throttle bodies FTW! As Eug Said.. the only real performance upgrade is the RB26 mani.

Could we be seeing a NISMO Z-tune (or X-tune) for the R35?

The only thing That would come ANYWHERE NEAR the VR is a Z-tune.. Even then, it would still get is arse handed to it.. or.. would it? Yes the GTR has titanium this.. bollocks that.. electronic jizz control.. But the Z-tune is still pretty hardcore!.. I mean Nimso poured 5mm of Carbon fiber on the floor plan to stiffen it it.. it uses a the GT500 race engine.. Carbon fiber pannels all round.. 10.04 or something like that quarter mile.. Same power.. not sure about torque.. I think the Z-tune is ligher.. The gear changes wont be as quick in the Z-tune as in the GTR.. but.. could a Z-tune make up for this? hmm.. discuss.. im curious..