GTS4WD

Fully aware of this.. but.. Even if it ends up costing the same price as a normal zorst.. or a little more.. your getting the same performance, saving ~20kg for a full zorst.. and the the *BLING* *BLING* factor

Isnt the HKS 3"? Cos then its too big.. Either way its better to go custom.. See if you can go balls out and get it made out of titanium!!! If its possible.. I'd say screw HKS, get it custom, 2.5" titanium.. ..yum yum..

This is giving me the Mcshits.. What is so great about the super drager?!?!?!

GUESS WHO GOT PRESNETS!?! They look very good! Almost brand spankers! ARP bolts look as new! Linish job is very good! Im concerned about the amount that was taken off the end of them when they were balanced (see pic) and also the brown build up. Is there any way you can tell if they were shot peened? The seller said they were, but I would like to confirm. All comments/feedback very welcome! mm.. sexy.. How do I get rid of this? Should I be concerned? Shiney! Note the differences in the curve from the balance

This is a little off topic.. But its my 2c, I drove a mates 180KW VR4 (similar basis to the earlier evos) And dads 220kw gts-t What I find.. is that a skyline is a drivers car. The dash wraps around, you sit low in the car, gearstick is nice and close and high. You feel the gearbox better. Its a car designed for a driver. Everything has an essence of perfomance car. It's just a car you jump into, feel and you can tell its to be driven hard. With the VR4 it seemed like a Magna on steriods. It's a family car. It always will be a family car. You dont have the same feel of power and superiority. The seats arnt right. The position of dials is wrong. Pound for Poud, all the little details, a skyline screams performance car. An evo, always will be a 4 door saloon. Keep the family happy with a Pajero, keep a smile on your face with a GTR And this is comming from a big EVO fan..

Im not sure if the offset and stud pattern are the same.. but try the pulsar forums.. They look very similar to SSS wheels, fery wanted on the forums!

Hay guys!.. A thought hit me! Can I use all the Rb30 bottom end parts, rods, crank etc. etc. etc. in my Rb25DE block? Saves me from having to buy a front diff adaptor, relocate the pullies, timing belt, new bearings, harmonic balancer and having to re-drill the VCT oil feed? I just need to know everything before I start ripping the car apart.. Thanks in advance guys!.. Rods and bolts should be arriving tomorow, will get pics up soon!..

If you want to increase Capacity, as before, RB30DE is the easiest. You can use the whole rb30 bottom end, crank, rods etc. etc. There is a .pdf file floating around, I can send you it if needed. Its a clear and simple build of an RB30DET. Which can easily be used to make an RB30DE Just a thought, If you use an RB30 crank, rb25 rods and pistons, and you get a 2.8L.. the other 200cc's must be atributed to the rb25 geodgen pin sits higher towards the top of the piston compaired to the rb30 which sits further away from the face of the piston? I dunno.. just an idea.

lol.. nothing is ever straightforward and hassle free in the world of modified cars..

You have a PM

Where in syd? Willing to do anything better on price? Very interested but for the right price.. Undergone any mods? Reco's? anymore details?

I think there needs to be something you want people to see.. I.e Stretched tyres.. So a 195 on a 8inch wheel.. HOT! or brand.. or something.. I dont mind it.. something a bit different.. Me like!

I find R32 GTR wheels as a cheap alturnative.. I weighted mine in at about 7.5Kg with rubber.. not a bad wieght for something that cost me $800

Removed (starting from the back): Boot Lining / Carpet / Plywood Spare Wheel cover etc Jack Rear Seat Rear Seat belts Rear Speakers Rear Parcel Tray Steel Backing Plate between the battery and rear seat HICAS Rear Wiper / Motor Superlight Weight Wheels (17 Work Equip Tri Spokes) Car Carpet (not noticeable if you leave floor mats in at the front) Entire Air con system, including coil inside the dash, compressor, cast iron brackets. (Kept heater though) 90% front bar reo, fitted fibre glass front bumper Front indicators (rewired parkers as indicators) Air bag steering wheel Plastic Linings Inside the guards Bonnet Lining Splash Guard Replace factory front seats with something lighter and better holding Fibre glass Bonnet and front guards Its pretty hardcore.. but see what you can do without..

The bore is the same for the Rb25, 26 and 30. The diff is the stroke between the three. It is posible. The rb30 Crank is nitred. I remeber reading something about the rb25 geodgen pins sitting higher (hence lower CR) than on the rb30 pistons. You could use all the rb30 internals in the block. Not sure about this. But definately worth looking into. There are stroker kits available.. but for stupid amounts of money! And for turbo applications.. Pretty much the easiest, cheapest and best is to just do an RB30DE conversion. Its not a bad NA conversion for all of ~$500 or ~$1200 if you want a good basis for a solid NA car.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186051.html Thats my plans.. Run down on pg 2 Can someone shed some light on if it is possible to put RB30 Internals into an RB25 block?.. Saves A SHITLOAD of work for me.. Its an interesting option. Saves me the legalities of swapping from a 2.5 to 3L, front diff adaptor, VCT piping, timing belt, relocation of pullies.. lol.. sorry for hijacking your thread.. but its an interesting prospect!

Ill be getting the heat wrapped.. Any tips? specific method? its sexier.. and cheaper..

Rip the block out.. put in a flat six.. from a liberty or something.. or.. get $125,000 Porche flat six with a zorst.. In all honesty.. its not possible mate.. Rex's sound as they do because of the engine being a flat 4 cylinder design apposed to a straight six. When i dropped in my RB25DE it sounded like a V8 WRX before all the carbon and all the settled shit was cleaned out of the engine.. mmmm.. that was nice.. Another possibility.. *DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!.. IT IS ILLEGAL* you can either disconnect part of your zorst system, or drill holes through the piping.. sounds awesome.. but REALLY REALLY LOUD! and mean..

After re-wiring dads R32 GTS-T To fit in an Rb25DET VVL from a R34 GTT.. I hope I never have to re-wire and engine again!.. Its such a rediculous amount of work!.. it took EASY twice as long as getting all the mechanicals working for it..

I love the 4 doors! Four door Love FTW! I have to take some photos of my car now I got coilovers.. I have a couple of surprises under wraps still

Please do mate! Im curious just to see what a 11:1 CR 3L and 2.5L VCT head will produce.. 235Nm sounds pretty good @ 3000RPM!.. but 86KW is still about 30-35KW shy pf what Id like just with a 3L bottom end.. Im not aiming for a power figure.. cos thats just silly and pointless.. Its response Im lookin for.. Im thinking about using the turbo oil feed to feed the VCT and block off the turbo water feed.. Ill post another post within the next few days with more updates and photos of rods and bolts.. HOPEFULLY by the end of the yr it will be complete..

Saw the build pics for this.. *grabs tissues*

Looks like a 350 on steroids! I like the function over form feel it has

Mama didnt raise no fool It was an opportunity too good to pass up Its not a bad price.. Ill have to do some overtime shifts.. and see if I can afford to drop those in too.. Cheers mate Question still stands.. which pistons to use? Hows the list looking? something I missed? Anything I dont need?

Its was $100 + Post for shot peened, linished and balanced rods and ARP bolts.. Because I wont be touching the head for a while now, Im not going to be taking to 8K. 7, mabey. I wont be producing much power/torque up that high just by doing the bottom end. So there isnt much point be going that high. Im not interested in revving the chops off it to be make a large power figure, I want response and FAT torque and power band.

Ok guys! currently awaiting shot peened rods and ARP bolts!.. Project is a GOER! Shopping list is as stands for the moment: Bottom End: 3L Bottom end ~ $150 Series 1 (thicker block walls + no oil turbo feed) (Non turbo – CR) Acid Dipped/Cleaned? ~ $70 Balanced crank ~ $100 Bearings ~ $80 - Necessary?!?! Big end bearings AND mains? or just one set? Decked block 2mm = ~10.5:1 CR Con Rods Shot Peened AWAITING Rod Bolts (ARP) AWAITING Lightened Flywheel E-bay Flywheel ~$267 + Post Oil Pump Crank/oil pump collar ~$70 Rb25DET/Rb20DET? Timing Belt ~$100 Headers – Group Buy $180 + $60post + Heat wrap $50 Oil Cooler ~$150 + Hoses OR E-bay Brisbane ~$300 Hektic Blue Total: ~$1200 Now.. Question? Should I use my current Rb25DE pistons? Pro: Saves me from buying new rings, better condition than 200,000+km Rb30 pistons. Con:I have a useless rb25DE block, inclomplete. Use Rb30 pistons. Pro, can sell rb25DE block, complete. Con. Worse for wear and need new rings Shave the living sh*t out of the block and use rb25DET forgies I have at home laying around. Thoughts? comments on shopping list or pistons is muchly needed! Thanks guys! P.s Anyone have a lazy RB30E block laying around they want to get rid of?