GTS4WD

Yeah.. that it true.. Stock 31 Weigh's ~1300Kg.. Stripped 31 ~1100Kg Attessa equipment ~150 - 200kg The benefits (depending on what you will be using the car for) are quite minimal.. The fact toy have the advantage of the ATTESSA cancells out the fact you added the extra Kg. This would be one seriously cool car though! It would be one MEAN drag car!!!

far too expensive just for "shits and giggles"

Stupid question.. but.. Why? This does answere MANY MANY questions! I went staggy RB25 + ECU in my GTS4 and.. GUESS WHAT!?!.. 10% all the time.. ..ghay.. Any way you cans stop/change it?

Honestly.. a good set of tyres goes a long long way.. No need for rooting with diffs.. and ratio's.. a solid set of tyres man..

OH MAN! The ammount of nights I have drempt about a stripped out ATTESSA R31! Honestly.. Rb25DET out of a stagea.. You will need the whole front cut ie. Engine/loom/ECU/Gear box (make sure it is out of a 4WD ie. it will have a transferbox att. to the gearbox) Things to consider: - Front and rear diff. Are they the same Ratio? Will you have to get a different rear diff? From what I remeber.. (dont quote) Staggy = 4.083, R32 = 4.375. What is a R31 diff ratio? - Front drive shafts should be ok. May need to mod CV joints slightly. Are the splines compatible with the stock 31 inserts? - The front crossmember may have to be changed to accomodate the front sump. Will it bolt up to stock R31 mounts? Do you even need to change it? - Floorplan. Do you need to mod the floor plan to accomodate the transfer box? - The rear AND front ATTESSA electronics.. you will have to find both front and rear traction sensors/electronics etc. You will have to run the wireing around the vehicle. A workshop manual will help you with this greatly.. Gimme a holla if you need one with the neccessary info. I think thats it.. I dont know if I had missed anything.. but there is ALOT of research to be done man.. If you are drop dead serious about doing this.. the best way to do this is as you go along.. step by step.. See if you can get a blown Auto R31 for a couple of hunge.. 25 for say 2K.. sell as much of the interior as you can.. perhaps the bottom end and the gearbox.. make up some money via this.. Thats the best way of doing it I think.. Give us a yell is you need any help or if it will go ahead.. definately something to keep my eye on!

Nice answere.. should tell that to the people that like to talk shit.. Keep us updated!.. be fantastic to see how she runs!.. Good luck and keep the details comming!

good answere.. should say that to the other people that talk shit..

now somoene please correct me if im wrong.. By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1. Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha) Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders? just a passing thought..

NEO = Vtech Whether or not it works on VCT.. another question..

If not sold by mid next week.. Ill buy.. Glimer of hope here.. =] Do they sit well? How stiff? Not going to knock my teeth out while driving am I? Install easy? Will it have to be re-thread due to the broken bolt?

The way it was explained to me is that: "all engines make noise due to moving parts/rpm/mods etc.. Most engines sound different, they have different mechanical characteristics and that makes them sound diff.. early models of the RB25DE have that loud metalic raspy resonance due to the way the engine was designed" Its a shit load louder than a raspy cams sound.. Got a mate to drive it the other day so i could hear it from the outside.. its LOUD! i mean FREAKING LOUD! it resonates through the whole exhaust and is amplified and expeled out the end. In the later Rb25DE's there was a small flap that was kept closed at row rpm and opened at WOP and higher RPM to help keep the noise of it to a minimum. An exhaust/muffler will cancel the sound, hence there arnt any/rarely do modded 25de's have the sound. Couple it with a new exhaust, and it disapears completely. So yeah, its just a natural characteristic that 25de's have. Its similar to cams on full symphany, but a million times louder, and out the exhaust. Theres no mechanical defect with the engine/exhaust. It causes no damage and will not harm the engine.. its just there.. hope this little bit of info helps anyone in the future..

if anyone still cares.. This metalic resonating is a common problem in early RB25DE's.. It causes absolutely no damage to the engine/exhaust.. The only way to get rid of it is a cat/exhaust/muff.. or bear they annoying very loud rattle.. Advan (in Syd) + 1 point!

Almost not worth it IMO For the price some people are asking, you may aswell buy a brand new turbo. At least you know its new, and propbably the same size as a high flowed..

OH MY GOD! THAT IS FREAKING MEAN! I want one for my 4door 32!!!!!!!!

Wooo! Thanks boys!

thats just simply amazing! The detail on it its awesome! Props!

Ok.. excuse the noob question.. but how does this work? How does the product work and how does it stop flex in the the firewall? I take it it stop flex as in twisting under extreme conditions? Mechanical explination? thanks mate =]

Warped disks/pads Braking from 200km/h places imence torture on disks and pads. What set up are you running? You could of simply heated your brakes to a point where they warped. Are any of the components new? Because they could be rooted from factory (happened to me before) Do you leave your handbrake on after track meets? Because by doing so, you clamp your rears, they boil and cook. Not doin the funkey monkey!

Hay guys, Im interested in getting a set of cams.. But i dont like putting things in my car if I dont fully understand how and what they will do. So I have a few questions (mechanical explinationes prefered) What are the complications with getting exhaust and inlet aftermarket cams in a CVT 25DE? What size's/lift/duration are best for street driving? Anything to enhance Mid AND high range? How much power will gain with a good tune? What prices am I looking at for a good set of cams? Is it worth going overkill and getting massive cams? What are the differences in cams? E.i How and what happens if you increase left/duration? How do I tell the left/duration? Will I have to get cam gears? At what point will I need to go larger injectors? Thanks in advance guys!

RB20 det uses top feed high impedance injectors 270cc RB25 det uses side feed high impedance injectors 370cc these are the same as the sr 20 det. RB26 uses top feed low impedance injectors. 440cc And no, you wont have to change your timing. If you advance your timing, you will have to run higher octane. Its a good idea to adance timing, helps a little bit. Why not get a thinner head gasket? Or just shave the shit out of it? Hi comp NA RB!

Eug is right. Work as much as possible on freeing up the engine. Things like Mandrel Bent Exhausts, Hi, flow cats, manifolds, extractors, CAI etc. I dont know much about this in terms of RB engines, but what about shaving the head? Increasing Comp Ratio? Cams can reep alot of rewards! It depends on what you will be using the car for. If its just daily driving, I really suggest you get a set of poncams! This will give you alot of midrange and a little high range (not much though). You want power on tap when you need it for street driving, so thats why you want mid range. there are other ways too to increase the performance of your car, lightened flywheels, brakes, loose some wieght, short shift kits (read a thread where some bloke cut .4 sec off his 1/4mile time just by installing a short shift kit!), coilovers, sway bars, strut bars etc etc. All these things add to the experience of driving your car. I dont know much about ECU's but why dont you just re-tune the stock one?

what about an SR S13? Supra? the Ma70's? VR4? GTiR? RX7 Sereise 5? Screw Rex's, 33's are too big (IMO). Dont bothwer with an S14, get a good condition S13 and spend the difference on mods.

Yes.. you need to undo the pannel left of the glove box/just below it. it will be in a clear and blue plastic boxy thing wedged in the back of the footwell. Whya re you installing a turbo timer on a 25DE?

I mean a stock RB25DET vs. a stock RB25DE+T. I think it would be a much more enjoyable drive than an RB25DET. Pound for pound, stock Vs stock, Hi comp turbo is the way to go. Honestly.. its just still dreaming now.. but its honestly worth thinking about! If you think about it.. Whats an RB25DET worth? 2K? 2.5K with CVT? For that, you could very easily turbo ur 25DE with much better results! (thats if you do it DIY). With the money you have left over you might even be able to pick up a few more goodies!

The way I see it (because I would like to turbo an NA 25 too) is that there may be significant benefits in going Hi comp Turbo. Hi comp turbo means more power, better torque, better responce. This is just a thought. Can anyone confirm?