STATUS

true and everything should be taken as only informative not definative as with everything engine related, but it gives a solid idea as to where the curve shifts with just a simple cam change on this particular setup. Depending on dyno you can actually do a drive cycle through each gear (timed and loaded the same as the street) and look at the effect lower gears (lower/shorter load) have on the afr's. We looked at one of the race logs from PI and matched the time in gear so we could "better" replicate the added loads of aero drag etc You can also set it up a cruise load then nail it (in any chosen gear) and launch into a loaded pull, this allows better tuning of said transients... not perfect but damn close. Would love to see your car on the dyno one day Ash, you can even provide a operator if you wish, would be good to set a known comparo for all the guys on here that dont seem to get the gtss's working right (ive heard your is very well setup).

can you please change mine to STATUS? please kind sir

in about a fortnight we will be doing a back to back test on std camshafts vs some 264 9.8's (both will have extensive dialling on the dyno to maximise area under the curve not peak), test car makes around 420-430kw so it may be of interest, then again it may not. I have no issue sharing the graphs.

yeah it should but this is a engine swap and sometimes its just easier to bite the bullet and fit an ecu, its the next step anyway and the hrs spent diagnosisng it could go towards the purchase.. without the car in front of you it is hard to chase these issues. i did a Sr20 swap into a triton minitruck and evrything was wired up including a/c ps steer inputs ect and it did the same thing because of intake mods.. i put it back to stock and it ran perfect, put the custrom shite back on and it freaked, so i remapped it and it was sweet, made good power and passed epa testing and engineering.

these unfortunatley are not a good comparo as the 2835's are huge compared to the SS's, more comparable to a t78, t88 than the gt35r.

lol i agree with you especially with leaving things well alone but to think there is only one way is small minded.... i get to see alot of 26's (feel free to drop in 2moro there are 4 in there atm 2 x with -7's 1 x -5's and 1 x 34 stockers so you can see im not bullshitting.) Its true the twins work very well (i prefer them personally in most cases) but if he wants more reponse then who are we to say he cant have it when it is physically possible? ive seen enough combos to be able to give an unbiased view. Ive said mutliple times in this thread we should see his graph before going gung ho and now weve seen the graph we know its not right, my recomendation as it was on page one is sort it the problem out then if your still unhappy look at changing.... chances are once it fixed there be no reason to change.

upgraded turbo, throttle body and your plenum change has most likely freaked the ecu out a bit much, some cars are fine (at idle and cruise) others just dont wanna play ball, but without seeing it your guess is as good as mine sorry. Duane at hi-torque knows his stuff so im sure he will have it sorted asap.

takes about 5mins.... ours literally sits on the xmember... we have to re weld removed material to bring it back up a bit .

NVH

swap out to a new radiator its a pretty common issue.

use this; * Red wire from MapEcu to a switched +B * Black wire from MapECU to E * Orange wire from MapEcu to the AFM signal leading to the stock ecu AR1 and AR2 * White wire from MapEcu to I (rpm output from ecu) * Brown wire from MapEcu to TH * Yellow wire from MapEcu to 02 Sensor wire - I will be using my AEM wideband controller

most of the clutch units are the same, the fans all have different offsets so thats were the dramas begin with a GTR, 33 gtst or 34 gtt fans are better but may hit the rad.

we quite often run a 272 on the exhuast side of our sr's its not a bad balance as it just extends the top end, depends on turbo selection also.

agreed thats way too late, they sound more like r32 N1. get someone to look over it, get it right then make your decision.

he has not mentioned BIG anywhere..... just single. i can think of 2 smallish turbos that would make 430rwhp (320rwkw) with better response than twins....

definatley (just need a decent manifold and a properly matched turbo), the only downside is appearance if your worried about coppers. I get to see alot of different 26 combinations ( i have 3 GTR's in the shop ATM all running different combo's, and another 2 engine builds) so im open to all different ideas. I do like the GTss's (one of the GTR's has one of our builds and GTss going in) so its not like i dont reccomend them but i have seen other combos match or better them... many ways to skin a cat this guy has asked a simple question and the answer is also simple yes it can be done, why he wants to change is another topic. the question should be askes as to why he wants to swap....

they fit but need a resistor pack or individual resisitors fitted on each +ve feed.

download the turbosmart instructions the bottom port on the turbotech goes to pressure source the side port goes to the actuator.

my choice is usually a single for that level, generally more area under the curve.

if you have run out of fuel you need to recurve the AFM voltage curve to get the correct results. With the Map based ecu's you can recalc the base map or via the INJ Adjust on settings 3 tab (i dont like touching this)

just wire it to the ecu, we do a few engine conversions (rb's and SR's intop toyotas etc) with remaps and the easiest thing to do is just wire it to the ecu plug.

i would line bore it to make sure it is still true.

yep and by then its cost 8k, so just 25 it or 30/25 it as both are cheaper... shit you could forge a 30/25 including purchase price for less than a well built rb24

i have edited it as i remember the HPI car being green-black not purple.

hmm you know the rb24 have a love of splitting bores don't you? i have a purple 4dr 32 in here that is rumored to have the hpi engine in it and its also got a split bore