STATUS

ive got a set of the mahles being tested in a severe duty big hp sr20 atm and we will strip it down at the end of the season and check them versus our control engine. They are nice in fact they are ready to slot in (wieght, coating, finishing ect) and the ring kit is not bad (file fit so dont slot em in) Many pistons are domed, JE, COSWORTH, CP etc the Trust ones we use in our car at present have valve reliefs for bit lift and duration in the dome.

For 250awkw they work well, just remmeber it will need intake and cooler pipe mods (only small) i would buy it or a GT3071R which requires the same mods to fit. Stao was working on bolt up rear housings (i think) as the old versions were v band only. You want to limit boost to 18-19psi NO HIGHER GT2530 will make 210rwkw on a stocker rb20 @ 17-18psi for more you will need some more work or boost, i have three cars come in reportedly making 220-235rwkw on rb20's and on my dyno they struggled to make 210, im not saying it cant be done but the results ive found require more than just bolting it on for a genuine 230rwkw.

turn off load default on startup, it is trying to load default PFC map from the root folder. Check your com port too as sometimes it loses its shit if you use a different usb port on the computer than the one you set it up on. If your using vista cut your loses and load up XP, i persevered with vista for 3 months before i punched the screen out of my laptop. Loaded in XP on the new toughbook and it is 1000000000% more reliable on all tuning suites including fc datalogit.

gt3071r kit, comes with everything including dump from GCG, and unlike the other supliers it is clocked ready to bolt on.... which means no custom actuator braket etc...

300 is the norm @ 15-16psi... they dont wake up till 19-22psi.... hello 380-410rwkw on pulp. But yeah cam gears on these turbos are worth about 300-400rpm on std cams and std bottom end.

pfc uses a fixed idling regime and is not adjustable (one failing of the AFM PFC on a wild setup) with datalogit you should be able to input anything but it still wont adjust the idle timing. Once you tap the throttle it uses the map tming.

Our tow guy has a few Rb30's in BMW's even a injected 308 from memory. He loves them, one even gets punished @ springnats etc

BCP is the type so yeah they are fine. For dailys i would still use a BCPR edited

i know its a bit hard without equipment but you should be able to get it close by ear and vac gauge. More vac is best and as you get it close AF wise the vac gauge will increase and the engine will smooothen out. dont worry to much about the trims mathmatically for now as to be honest i will often play with it up to 5% and fine adjust with the latency so that the numbers in the map = the numbers coming out the front pipe.

impossible unless you fitted the wrong plugs (projected type), skyline plugs MUST be BCP type.... we use BCPR7ES, i see alot of BKR plugs in rb's and they are also WRONG. The porcelain makes nice divits in the head and piston which in turn cause hotspots and promote pre ignition (pinking)

eeebbbbaaayyyy special, very limited run of about 6900 million.

yeah we find that the penrite sin stuff does not cut it in these rb engines especially if you give them a hard time.... the oil turns so thin among other things. ive dropped quite a few sumps of penrite out of cars on the dyno and refilled with motul or castrol. Their HPR GAS and old tech stuff is great in my old 454 big block though....

ive used RB26 ones (customer could not afford a 82mm) in the past without issues. I do have a used 82mm Tomei or HKS rb24 gasket here somewhere if you get stuck.

use a rb25 or rb26 one. Otherwise HKS or tomei do a special gasket.

um you would buy two as it works better especially if you run a true split style manifold which REQUIRES TWO.

they are the best flowing kit on the market. I actually think there was a set going cheap at autobarn narre warren when i was down there last, nearly bought it as a spare.

he means the thrust bearings in the engine (middle crank main), your refering to the throw-out bearing in the gearbox bellhousing.

to be honest i would only look at these setups if your really on a budget. The manifolds become bit of a restriction at anything over 280rwkw (we have made alot more but exhaust pressures are way high), we just swapped out a std manifold (gt3582) for a low mount merge collector getup and it transformed the car.

JUNK BETTER

Emanage blue is perfect for your mods, i have a GTR customer (t517z's, 700cc and afm's) making mid 350kw with one so your car will be fine.

only diff is the 02 bungs. (from memory it comes with adapters anyhoo)

you pull more chicks in a R8 though, thats worth the extra dough .

agreed, we do every engine we build, just make sure not to use anything too agressive.

i have the bulge facing the plenum but it doesnt matter.

ie a crate nissan motor? if so 170-180. I did a low kay JDM s15 the other day and it was 170 cold. If it is an unstarted new engine it could be way lower till it all beds in.