STATUS

We use an accumulator (canton) to pre charge all our engines too but i m guessing he doesnt have the equipment

even the best SMIC on the market is a POS, ive tested ARC SMIC on both skylines and S15's and can assure you they are junk. The cores heat sink after no time and are less effecient than most of china FMIC's ive seen come through the shop. Now i now for fact you can buy a return flow FMIC and have it Engineered (last cost on engineering was $700) here in vic for about the same as the ARC RRP...

MATE THAT IS THE WORST THING TO DO... ignore this guy... ffs. Not one part his post is factual. In fact if you reverse it it is about perfect. Its quite common for airlocks between the pump and the pickup, when assembling it is best to use a small amount of assy lube in the rotors to cause a suction in the pickup, without the lube it is possible for the pump to bypass around it self and not draw up the oil. A good trick is to cut the upper half off a filter, pull the guts out and fill it with oil (including the rubber anti return valve), turn engine over backwards until it draws all the oil into the engine. Prefill you new filter with oil and crank it to get pressure.

SOMETHING NO ONE HAS MENTIONED IS OILS AND COMPATIBILITY WITH E85 Consider using oils that are methanol safe. Ive been speaking to a few engine builders and machinist involved in E85 powered race cars (hint) and wear is UP TO 20% FASTER than experienced on "normal " fuels.

they are directly related so its a moot point.

steve if it gets too hard feel free just bring it in running on the std ecu, i had a quick look at the map and i reckon its pretty much ok just needs a few things going over but i need it live to make sure which AFM signal its using.

TBH is is more important to get the rb30 bottom end right than the RB26...... especially for drift. We ran a stock rb26 for two seasons before cat killed it doing doughnuts at the gazza nats Toms kept dying as no-one explained the extra oil required in the sump. The only issue we had with cats engine was a std guide cracked and a piece got lodged in the top of a piston (causing an odd knock). The head got a full build and has had no issues since. The new engine was spot on till i used a custom sump (supossedly the best around) and the pick up was poorly designed and caused a pressure drop @ 8800rpm. So now we run a 8litre sump designed by the boys that build High energy and ASR sumps, car revs cleanly to 9000rpm with no oil pressure dramas. Well over 400rwkw and over 600nm.

depends on how long you cranked for, it is ppossible to wipe bearings.

SOMETHING NO ONE HAS MENTIONED IS OILS AND COMPATIBILITY WITH E85 Consider using oils that are methanol safe. Ive been speaking to a few engine builders and machinist involved in E85 powered race cars (hint) and wear is UP TO 20% FASTER than experienced on "normal " fuels.

DO IT... i love tuning turbo hondas for exactly the same reason, super responsive revvy little fkrs.

BEST Value intake = std (seen over 350rwkw regularly) not sue if the std crossover fits too well in a 180sx though. All rb conversion we do into S-chassis use a plenum as it is easier to package (power is not the reason)

TBH most of the guys ive talked to cbf'd doing the setup for each car, i don't have a choice with the dynapack as everything has to be calibrated (rpm matched to within about 5-10rpm) before commencing any runs, its easy and takes about 1min to do.

$6500-7000 here for a 6-71 kit, all my figures above are ALL MOTOR power figures, no charger, no nitrous. Soon as you add nos or a charger things become easy. I wish we had the product range you guys do over there and the price difference is huge too.. I reckon gt40 or T04Z will be a good comprimise, 5000-5500 stall and relevant mods to allow a decent rev ceiling. People tend to think the rb25 is far inferior to a rb26 power wise but with the correct mods the RB25 is a swet little engine (especially the NEO)

but here nitrous is cheating.... we are all talking pump gas no nitrous.

haha i had to edit the first one as i thought you picked up my spelling mistake "tuune"....... then i realised it wasnt that funny.... so i looked again and pissed my self lol Lucky the rest werent on there let out my trade secrets on sponsorship..

spen $50 getting the lot checked before commiting... easy solution. I am yet to find a decent GTR crank 2nd hand. Generally a reason the engie is apart. RB26's have a bad habit of cracking and bending with even a basic spun bearing.

i should also add i dont consider LS engines to be traditional SBC's LS's make power easy, 700hp from a traditional SBC is an expensive execise. Decent alloy head setup alone is 5k.... roller cam kit 2.5k... rotating assy 2.5k we are already @ 10k no rocker gear, sump , pump, ignition, carb etc....

Yup sponsorship drive is on for next year, dont be suprised if its sexyland, AMI, 4SEASONS etc.... AMI's nasal delivery spray budget is huge... how many billboards are around? 1000's. If you look next to it you can see wrigleys and haynes manuals are also listed

Exact same ramp rate, the E85 seemed slightly lazier but here is another graph which is more indicative as the two runs i've listed here were within 5mins (the time to swap fuels)

Dismiss the journal / BBearing debate on here, its a moot point and irrellevant. i build a few V8's too and can tell you a "real" 700hp sbc is gonna cost you 25k at least. this is a genuine 550+ rwkw engine and is worth over 30k

Nice ecu choice BTW, nice things the new platinum's. Sorry but ive been out tonight. email me your base map and i will have a look at it for you, it may need the outputs programmed (does the fuel pump prime etc? )

the stock stroke crank will come in about the same as the above price, the 77.7mm will be dearer but not much.

Just perused my dyno hall of fame and there are 9 car making over 500rwkw (670hp) the cheapest engine was around 20k, i have 5 out of that nine over 550rwkw (740hp) and i reckon all those engines owe at least 30-40k. But in fairness we are talking wheel hp and Kw i find that in the states fly horspower seems to be the used currency and many use the pie in the sky 25% rule so 740hp fly would be 550rwhp or round abouts... this is only 410rwkw and is fairly easy to achieve and FAR cheaper. We have seen a few 2.5litre cars roll through the shop making this power (400-430rwkw) with cheap GT4088 turbos with the special order v-band rears. Engines were simple home builds Pistons, rods and cams.

Best balanced kit ($$ / quality) i reckon. We use a similar combo for our budget builds. I hope the pdf was useful in regards to machining cost etc... please keep it to your self too

$20 to surface so no biggy.