STATUS

This will probably bite me on the ass. but here goes... This is an often asked question, about most ecu's. to be honest its not so easy as the cost of tuning requires a few more than a time sheet. High horsepower car require more equipment so cost more. For example i charge $550 for a PFC, $700 for Haltech, VIPEC, LINK etc, for cars over 350rwkw i generally charge more as it requires more equipment (i fit double external knock sensors etc). A Touch up from somewhere else is generally a tune as im usually not happy with the base thats there... so $550 A touch up for something ive tuned previous (say after injector install etc) is $350 (up to 4 hrs) Then there are the credit based tunes (Holden and Ford) like LS1, LS2 and XR6 which range from $950-1100 (retunes are $400 if ive got the VIN already unlocked) Leaded fuels have a $50 surcharge as it kills the widebands quickly (2 on v8's so double) My business has changed alot and we now operate soley around dyno tuning and development (and engine building). We dont do general mechanical, i have set it up this way so i can book in one tune a day, this leaves ample time for those tunes that dont go as planned (coilpacks, fuel pressure, boostv leaks etc). If we encounter an issue we can persevere untill its sorted without the worry holding up other jobs or having to rebook another dyno day. So for a mictrotech i would charge $700 from scratch or $550 for a retune. I can understand why some places charge more and i think this is fair as your paying for thier expertise, as long as thier reputation warrants the extra $$'s i would be happy to pay more.

HMMMM lizard island ... i mean HMMM hotties

who else is doing yellow r33 coilpacks? i know where some of the red ones came from (as i provided them) but the yellow ones were a customers he bought off a mate. The supplier of the red ones also claimed zero comeback but now i have a cupboard full... @ least 3 of them are SAU members.

Exactly, these has minimal setup time. The microtech has a base setting too, but cold start is miles off.

ive had a fair few of these red and yellow coils die over the extreme heat we had 2 weeks ago, in fact 4 sets in 2 weeks. Whats your return rate?

The microtech's are avaerage ecu's but they are also the simplest and fastest to tune (playing the microtech, drag the line game). Average tune time for a microtech is far less than a pfc orhaltech etc. Average cost would be $600-1000 no more. (for example on average we charge $600)

id be suprised if the guys making the cheap radiators even know what they are.... my experience is they get plans and make shit with no knowledge of what the part does... In fact most guys who get gear made there make sure it is nearly impossible to track the item to particular models and makes... it stops the manufacter back dooring your product to other markets.

^^ oops just realised i used cats sign in. yeah nistune requires resistor pack

prepare to lose any semblance of fuel economy

or its just spun a bearing and your seeing the resultant burnt oil escaping.... white oil from catch can is usually terminal. Ie the rods are hot enough to burn the oil in the sump.

I should proabaly also add they are not copies, they are off the same line as the "brand " name gear. I looked at bringing the stock stroke cranks in aswell as ive bought over 5 new GTR cranks from nissan in the past 12months for builds due to not being able to find suitable 2nd hand items (nearly all are bent or cracked) i figured i may aswell use a nice billet crank instead of the stocker if it cost the same.

interesting watching the trans pressure guage, i reckon it was sleeping Bit hard to see but it looked like it was picking up the lateral g sensors but not the longtitudinal sensors? edit: spell check big word

yeah depending on setup.

i can vouch for Morpowa, simon is a top tuner and all round nice guy.

Exactly the guys that support the drag racing scene in general make a fair chuck of their money from race fuel sales. The issue i see is without the fuel sales the sport and andra may lose some backers which would be worse for the sport than a ban on E85... but then more guys running E85 means they could race more which means more income.....

sorry in your first post you said it was creeping 1psi ? if its creeping @ gate pressure there "could" be an underlying issue made worse though i doubt it. Duty @ 10 % is doing nothing, i havent had a setup yet that has seen an increase in boost at all until @ least 20-25 duty. Have you got a bleed valve to bang in to try? or try it in actuator mode like i posted previous.

The 73.7mm std stroke version will be comparable to a new nissan stock 26 item, and th 2.8l 77.7mm version will be a bit more. I did not want to discuss it till we sort out an agreement with SAU, which i cant do for a few weeks as im in the process of changing our business model and name (no more mechanical) and we now only tune, build engines and develop product for a few local companies. I should add that the 73.7mm is STOCK stroke but forged full-counter, the 77.7mm is also forged full-counter but is used as the base for 2.8 kits.

I have got some Billet RB26 cranks coming in (and SR20) and i have to figure out a mix ratio of 77.7 and 73.7mm strokes. which would you guys prefer to use yourselves? No questions on pricing please, dont want to upset mods.

HKS people will tell you getting the f-con software and dongle is impossible but it is available if you know the right people, 4k and its yours.... in english. i have no doubt beno did the v-cam in his sleep

Make sure you get it (crank) measured up, usually they will hammer the crank a bit and score it, depending on when it let go it could also be cracked (usually in the radius) or bent (0.03-0.20" ) is not uncommon i have about 6 or 7 bent rb26 cranks here that spun bearings @ 6000rpm and up (i collect fkd engines )

yeah your right, my mistake sorry for the bum steer. i looked it up this morn (Tomei). Most cars run the opposite and id just finished doing a our engine with the greddy cams (same on both) and turbo honda engine (larger on the exh). If you get stuck for shims try BNB reco 03 95479674 they just shimed up a 26 head for me and it needed a full set made up.

yeah r34 was new generation plug (double the pins) The 34 one is far superior.

i cant remmeber if the rb20 sits in the splines correctly, i think they do as i ran a rb20 one in arb26 from memory... If the rb20 one slips in just use it.

SIR; try plumbing it up as a actuator, ie right angles thru the solenoid and to the forward most port on your gate (below the diaphragm). If you were seeing slight boost creep with the thing at gate pressure you might find the added restriction of the controller is just making this worse. It should work the way you have it hooked up (as this is the way i always do it with both ports of the gate) but the physical setup you have might just be to close to boost creeping anyway, or the unit is playing up.

the port orientation is unimportant, its only wise to face it down to stop shite dropping in.