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no the ecu plugs and internals are 100% different.

From memory the gregdy ones were 0.35 all round so your 0.38 seems about right but i think you have them round the wrong way which is why they are noisy. Exhaust is usually the larger clearance due to more heat = more expansion.

The issue with drain back systems is water contamination (read BEER BARONS post) Overnight or over any period of time that the engine cools down condensation builds in the vents and lines (much like your exhaust), this vapor will also collect in the catch tank.... which then later drains into the sump... bad idea.

agreed.

Luckily here in vic now they out source EPA testing (so its cheaper) and remaping std GTR ecu's even with 30 bottom ends to pass is a piece of piss...

I just had this with cats Rb26, turned out to be the CAS. Everytime i CBF diagnosing it it would start then when i needed to move t in a hurry it would not start Listen to hear the fuel pump prime for a bout 5 seconds once you turn on the key. If you cant hear the pump, its probably the pump. Walbros are a common failing pump, they hate voltage drop.

it can take 15mins to bleed up to the bleeder bolt on some cars, but honestly if you driven it a few times and topped it up it is really the same thing. Another issue could be the new thermostat, we only use genuine nissan ones as we found about 7 in 10 tridon or similar aftermarket one did not open properly in the rbs' and sr's. get your rad checked too. We had a similar issue with a customer who see regular track days he had brand new china brand radiator (2 months old) it kept over heating so i changed everything around it only to find the radiator was useless, put a new one in (ASI) and car was fine

Yeah we run one (canton) in the race car, setup with a solenoid. Cost was about 480 including solenoid and brackets etc... Soon as the igntion is turned on it pre oils the engine (oil pressure before cranking) then it refills during run time. Any time the oil pressure drops below 40psi it discharges into the engine. Soon as you shut the engine down it shuts the solenoid off and hold pressure in the system for the next start. I will post pics. We use it plumbed directly into the side of the greddy pump (as there is a dash 10 fitting there from factory).

Rb25 and RB26 belhousings interchange for sure as i pull alot of the later type pull type housings off and fit R33 gtst ones.

ORC twin plate, simple to drive, light pedal. Ours has lasted 5 seasons of abuse and still sedate enough to let mum drive to shops. They have a much nicer pedal take up than the exedy twins which are a bit harsh.

Market is way to small.

Interesting, what excatly went wrong i drove the gtp (even @ phillip island) and both my cousins have FG's now they are evaluating for ford.... no issues on either. Mind you both are FPV cars not the base xr6 bucket. In fact both cars lap pretty quickly too the F6 kills your average gtst skylines and even EVO X round phillip island, been to a few motor review days down there so seen first hand. Dead stock F6 1:53.80 versus EVO X 1:55:10 (same driver, same day) So much for a drag car. Oh dont get me wrong im not a ford fan boy (shed is full of nissan and chev), i just reckon that credit is due.

To be honest we do a few xr6's and by far the most fun car ive driven lately was a mildly modded F6 FG, flashed, exhaust boost etc was quick, left nice black lines evrywhere and handled great. F6 FG will be my next new car purchase http://www.fpv.com.au/fpv-range/f6/overview.aspx i had a V8 gtp to test for awhile but the 8 was bit like our rb26'd S13 without the power... nose heavy. The F6 has nice balance, nice interior and compared to a BA xr6 (i could not own a BA) its hard to believe they came from the same assy line. I thought 2jz and rb30/26's used to be pretty crazy but 4liter turbo (may i repost FOUR LITRES) with a host of mild upgrades eats far heavier modified rb's and 2j's for torque and power.

Nah Ray Carter is the owner also an NZ'er, hes living working over here now in melbourne, GIZZMO is now based here also. Going gang busters in the UK and USA. Try contacting him direct here: http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Contact.html he usually emails back "quick as bro" but if you still cant get through let know and i will forward your details through personally. The MSIBC is one of the best controllers on the market, it is as good as the BLITZ dual solenoid jobbie we had on our car. The IBC was a good unit too and all the things he wanted to do processor wise and feature wise went into the MSIBC. With the gain i normally datalog (road) or map (on the dyno) the boost and get my target boost with the gain set to zero, then i increase the gain untill i get a spike and back it off about 3 or so units. Most of time i end up between 10 and 25 units of gain. It is hard to get a seat of the pants setting because the more gain you feed in the better it feels but it causes it to spike too much especially when dropping back a gear and stomping on it... this is the same with all boost controllers with gain control.

^^^ another common issue, we do heaps of sr's and rocker and cam wear is an epidemic in S14 and S15 (early).... the problem stemmed from tight ass owners and dealers using the cheapest oils, they would become claggy and block the oil squirter rail.

how old is the IBC? they have been superceeded by the MSIBC. That said we have used heaps without issue. some of the early IBC's had the menus set up opposite to the late ones from memory so you might find it is gain your adjusting not Duty. If you continue to have issues let me know as im good friends with the owner of Gizzmo and i am happy to test the unit in our race car (we have run both IBC and now MSIBC with no issues) if it is faulty we can upgrade the firmware to the latest.

we made 411rwkw with a cheap GT40 (v band rear 1.0) ($1300) through an auto on a1jz (2.5litre) at 22psi.

HAHA yeah wrong forum, i hang out over @ heli freak abit but i run OS 50's and 0.91's

Thats a interesting way of doing it

more likely boost cut. The emanage does not care whether its in the high or low octane map.

BINGO check the 2.5" 90 degree elbows under the filter, its common for them to split.

fill it to just below the first hump (above the H)

They ae great units but not needed for your application, remap the std ecu email nistune they are Adelaide based.

BCPR7ES are pregapped to 0.8mm not 1.1mm (most RB's hate 1.1mm unless they have aftermarket CDI units) Yours is an exception, we gap down about 6 or so skylines a week that have 1.1mm gaps.. that miss like crazy on the dyno.

extra oil in the sump etc