STATUS

number 6 big end probaly. Its quite common unfortunatly. The blue R34 (Pics of engine in my sig) was freshly imported and no-one advised the owner of the precautions before tracking it. It lasted two laps of sandown before spinning number 6, it ended up needing a full rebuild as it destroyed the crank.

what ECU? ive had some dramas with these not tuning up to nice on r34's with remps.. swapped em out and problems went away. It was real odd.

Cheers ^^^^ wont fit the s13 then i just had the guys that make all the high enrgy and ASR gear go over our setup here in melb and we are getting a 8lt sump to suit.

Yeah definately, it wont cost you a cent on my end. We have had a few guys do comparos now from the melbs15 club so ive nothing to hide. I think even STAO from hyper gear drove from DRDRIFTS to mine and pulled within 2-3rwkw on his old CA dyno test car, he didnt tell me either till after we pulled the runs

HAHAHA no wonder GT-SS's make all the difference, i was talking std ECU and STD TURBOS. The std ecu runs around 24 peak degrees but can handle 3-4 more, it is also mega rich from about 5500 so you could get away with around 12-15psi on the std gtr ecu.

A few guys were using them on evo X's at winton, they seemed to go off after a few laps, they tried a few different pressures 35-40 and it made no diff. They were used to R888's and RE55's. Id like to know from first hand experience or from a few other guys before i lay down any flap on some (keen to do so). From what i can gather (all feedback not first hand) they are awesome to use as hipo street tyres but average on the track compared to their FEDERAL 595RS's counterpart.

i agree, just not on my dyno. Ive had plenty of std ecu gtr's on mine (about 17 now) and none have made anywhere near that unless remapped. i had one come close and that was dirk digglers (SAU member) he made 239 ish on a mines ecu.

duty cycle hits 95% @ 215rwkw so i wont tune past that regardless.

Honestley my part prices are no good without the machining and labour content. The NItto pumps are fine, i will send thru a pm in the next dya or so.

yeah check out the aston martin..... for some reason my embed for viseos does not work, can someone email me the code? save me posting links (i reckon chrome is the culprit) another mid ohio http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRC3rv1ZHj4...feature=related

leave it till you have the budget to do it once.

yep soon as the restrictor is removed the std ecu pours in the fuel and dumbs it down. Most GTR's will pull around 190-200rwkw with a stock ecu, with a mines ecu they will pull around 220 (loads more timing about 29 degrees peak but still rich) a remap will yeild 230rwkw at less boost or 240kw with the restrictor removed and the remap controlling boost.... Sarumatix yours still has the highest reading on my dyno for a std rb26 so dont worry..... yet

this is off the top off my head so i will check it later, yellow red trace is tacho signal,water temp is yellow / black, speedo is yellow / blue all these wires are in the other white plug (with black cover and grey locking lever) near ecu plug,

yep and ive seen lots of brand new siemens injectors perform terribly.... as i've said everything is relative.

it would just be a pin swap for the cas, nice and simple. I have reread the post from scooby again and im a bit confused now. I though he wanted to run a r34 engine loom. maybe he can clear this up and post exactly why he want so use a r34 loom. cause if it is just the CAS issue its a 2min fix with some tweezers

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f223/crash...2-nissan-61500/ Lucky escape for this z driver.

i'm pretty sure if you wanted to buy some (speaking to prospective customers) CREATD would show you in real time in the test machine like they did for me, i was 100% against highflows until i saw their work... There are time and places high flows should not be used i and i whole heartedly agree but for guys on a tight budget where 250-270rwkw is the target on a highflow or chinese turbo i cant see a problem, unless the person selling them is pushing them as "the only" solution. To me running the best brand injectors then using a cheap ecu to control them defeats the purpose, in fact using a decent ecu with highflow injectors yeilds better results. I suppose what im saying is that everything is relative. Relative to budget, application and execution. Its too easy to get hung up on the one particular thing, when really the whole setup should be considered more important.

rb20 injectors cant be done properly, we get CREATD to do ours (R33) spray pattern is the same as stock so there is no issues there. Of course highlflows have there place, but not in all.

Handling can definatley dealt with but not fixed, having 3/4'sof the engine in front of the front axle centreline is probably the WORST mod imaginable... For the cost of a RB25 conversion one could build a SR23 that will exceed both torque and power of a rb25.. In this case he already has both cars so it wont be as expensive.

you need to use the lower cross member, (i prefer to use r32 x-member and r32 engine mounts) and matching mounts, massage the firewall / tunnel to fit the box in, section the front rad support to be able to fit clutch fan (most reliable way) Front facing plenum makes the bonnet shut and allow a strut brace. the rest is pretty simple other than wiring as the R33 sources power from inside the car whereas the s13 power supply is behind the lh headlight. Its not a wiring job for a novice but its fairly easy if you understand the circuits. We used to combine both rb25det and s13 harnesses to make it a full plug in operation, but now i don't do any conversions as its too time consuming. I have a rb25det conversion dvd that was sent to me as a sample many years ago, ive never seen it but your more than welcome to drop in with a blank dvd and ill burn a copy.

thats cause the head drain does nothing (cept look cool) Any decent pump will do that even with restrictors, GREDDY, JUN, NITTO etc....

Put an sr20 in it, best thing for it. Done all manner of rb conversions into 180sx's up to S15's and honestly the SR20 is the best option. We have a 430rwkw RB26 in our s13 and i wish it was a 2.3l SR20..... RB's and S-series chassis means POOR weight distribution and all manner of other issues.

yeaqh ive seen this on a few cars that had reco's in japland. I stamp all mine to and engrave certain things on the wings to remind me whats inside

agreed take it to someone who knows thier RB's, not some v8 pro as nearly all the engines ive had come in from that type of shop rattle thier heads off and fill the rocker covers with oil as they know nothiing of restrictors and so forth that these engines require. There are some very good shops in NSW that can set you on the right path. As for main bearings we run Kings exclusively but the type is not so important but the precision in which the crank is prepared to suit said bearings is crucial. For example ALL our engines are tunnel bored assembled with the bearings then the crank is prepared to achieve the required clearance. I think you should list what you have (parts wise) and what your apllication and powergoals.

or the guys have set a TP load limit in the remap, i do it to customers i know have fiddly fingers so they cant up the boost.