STATUS

depends on budget, ive found the blitz K5 better than the gt35r but its also double the price, other notable results ive had thru the shop on a rb26 are TD06sh-25g. Rb26 and drift is an expensive setup, oil control must be spot on.

I used to live there (on and off for 15 years) as my old man works for cathay pacific and i can tell you now if you go to the right place you will get them quite cheap compared to shelf prices here, the only drama is all the good shops are in obscure places and unless your local finding them is a pain in the ass (some shops are way outta town like fuel tank co etc) My recommendation is to price them up here and if you happen to stumble across some over there then buy them, chances are they wont be in stock anywhoo..

i searched but could not find (will keep looking) but in the meantime can you email or pm me some info as i am abuot to do a kit and if you have one ready to go (brackets sump etc) i will just buy the lot from you.

crank is throw away. Look for a replacement but in all honesty i have bought 6 2nd cRB26 ranks over the years and all but 2 were no good.

This is the setup we use it still has the jjr remote mount but the spin on to the block is GREDDY (nicer, cleaner fit) Genuine speedflow fittings (the crimp ones are shite) saber core and decent hose (soon to be replaced with kevlar wound gear) EDIT: just recognised the engine bay if you need a cooler dave i have a few laying around

yah but get the blue type the heat transfer and flow is better, i tested the two back to back as originally we ran two grey JJR then two blue and the difference was about 10c.

from memory we cut tuning short on yours as it had boost issues (leaks or something) im sure there is more in it but have you fixed the boost issues?

i would drop to a thinner oil, the pressure is not the issue but the extra loading on the crank flats and pump rotors is what im concerned with... especially cold starts with a 20w-60

with rb26's make it as deep as possible and make sure it holds a minimum of 6 litres. Pickup should sit about 4mm from the sump bottom NO CLOSER. the pickup should also be in a box section so that oil cant run away from it (run hinges on each side to let oil in but not out)

im a brand junkie but to be honest the SABER gear is spot on we use one on the track car and it is as good as the jap gear that was on it. The blue versions are best as the material transfers heat better. www.bbmmotorsports.com.au

i reckon you would be safe to assume forged.

one of the the toyota sc type chargers.

the two most reputable people is spoke to talked me out of it..... gave me the option but i ended up going R134 Stupid A380 needed new hoses, TX valve and receiver drier been open for too long.... i wanted the a/c to be perfect so took to anything that could be suspect... lucky the conversion used xf falcon gear so its only the hoses (20ft of hose ) that is dear. Attached a pic of what it should look like once finished. 10 stud FTW

well done, very impressive result.

never looked for 20 vlaves TBH, i thought we were talking 26

forget the rear drain, nitto pumps are good, very similar to the greddy jun pumps (nearly double the rotor thikness), i may even have a usd one laying around @ the shop. Im not sold on the powertune stuff as most of it is copied / engineered, like the rb25 gearbox adpaters etc.... Id like to see some long term real testing (not just a few floating around with he said she said testamonials)

its passable@ 92% just leaves minimal head room. I am emailing a map to you now to compare

not sure who does basic stainless alloy valves anymore. The fereas are all Tribological super alloys (superior to inconnel and lighter) The materials of these aftermarket valves be it super alloy or inconell are far superior than the std items sodium filled gear. Inconell is exteremly heavy duty also but sometimes the extra weight is its downfall (valve float ect) for example its a nono in high reving big blocks or they become a consumable (ie every 20-40 passes) I have nice site which explains all the alloys here: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/25...so_special.aspx

We got good results with our head, full ferrea kit but we also did a plenum change so its hard to quantify the valves alone but torque is broader and holds 50nm at a minimum more to redline. ill post up a comparo 2moro. Haed is off again to test quench area mods as we speak. actually comparo is here (ignore the difference in response as the second run was on a lower ramp rate for run in which was 6 seconds instead of 10) power is the same within 2 or 3 kw between ramp rates http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sh...96#entry4918296

pretty sure it when bang too 30psi and 373 is a ticking time bomb, was a R32 featured in a mag not too long ago yea?

The r34 ones are totally different just finished a motor and compared them to the r32 ones i had lying around. I would agree though that manifolds do zero @ the power your chasing.

How did the new map i post go?

good read, considering im dropping the tow car off to get the a/c fixed in a few hours

true, but if it was me would buy it to swap numbers accross from my cheap grey import (cheap with race only reg just missed a grade 5 one at auction for 5,635,000 yen) and have nearly a complete spare car for parts..... and a fully road registered grey import.. if i was so inclined