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weve run close to 400rwkw through the Greddy ls kit, so scrap that idea.

rewired what exactly? i cant think of anything needing re wiring to fix a break down on a 34. what was the cause of the breakdown...

any machine shop will know what to dom we do ALL rb and SR cranks just for safety. Many v8 builds its a pre requisite. Pissa is i googled crank grub screws and got my own picture from sau http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...rewed-crank.jpg

did you ever speak to crank shaft rebuilders? if not i will ask when i go down next. I have a few GTR cranks to get straightened that i acquired from here and there.

we use a kit from jaycar pretty sure its 25-35 bucks so best check it out before you bust your nuts doing the same thing.

haha yeah i better read the whole thread

I bet you now there is no science behind their product.... its a case of the chinas... replicate.... replicate.....replicate it looks like a direct copy i will trawl trhough the dyno as i have a few VLT and RB25's (jt's is one) that have before and after dyno's. Including same day runs.

been using them for years (gizzmo) search phenolic on here i think i posted up datalogs a long while back. Every SR20, CA18 and RB we build has one fitted. GTR's and rb30's love them. The inlet temp logs will prove any nay sayers wrong..

we do just about every different ecu so im unbiased and although every second post above says nistune i beg to differ in this case even though they are extremely good (and we are a listed installer of nistune) they are no match for a good well tuned stand alone like the haltech platinum range if you have the budget and plan to do bigger mods down the track, the tuning resolution on a remap is about 50% of that of a stand alone. To make the most of the remap you really need to have a clear plan of future mods. There are exceptions as we have a few cars now with nistune remaps making well over 350kw's some ecu's are better than others too, i find r31, vlt and ca18's to be less receptive to big mods, whereas zeds, GTR's and 34gtt's and stageas respond well. The platinum is worlds better than the earlier haltech stuff mainly due to the new interface software, it is one of the best tuning suites around.

yeah we do them for 750 drive in drive out, as do most here in VIC.

if found the 595rs to be a semi semi (ie not as soft as r888 or 555 etc) so you should be ok, ive dynoed a few with the 595rs without drama, mind you they were only high 200 rwkw cars.

fit diff tyres, had heaps of issues with semis and rollers.

yep it will, as the cas gets removed. I'd say it was either not set after re-assembly, or the most likely case is the base idle was set wrong before it was tuned (say 10degrees) and after they serviced it they set it properley to 20 and it now has 10 degrees more base in it.

hold bottom button for few secs: screen will scroll closed or open, when you see closed press BOTH buttons at the same time. next screen will have a number set it to around 35 and press BOTH buttons at the same time. (this is duty) next screen will have a number set it to around 15 and press BOTH buttons at the same time. (this is Gain) NEVER SET THIS OVER 30 unless you know exactly what you are doing. boost is now set, if it is a bit low increase the numbers ive highlighted in bold.

rb into s series equals handling shite..... no matter your budget.... the SR will always handle better. but there are 100's of threads on how to do the swap. Head over to nico forums in the states.

just pull the tcs butterfly out if thats your concern

make sure you check the mounting flange with a straight edge as they crack when bolted up.... i have one here in the shop now if you need any pics...

yeah like i posted without the customer present i would not push it past 350 (im contracted to do it for another workshop) if he was here we would go higher.

best running a jaycar switch then, ive got some dyno tests i did here with and without the vct and the hole in the mid range is about 15-19rwkw deep....

Just pulled a R32 GTR off the dyno from another workshop, it came to me with the following parts fitted, second hand garret T04Z kit and cams etc, new powerfc D-jetro and fuel pump. Made a lazy (by lazy i mean minimal timing and with tweaking probably another 15kw hiding in it at 17psi) 350kw and 500nm at 17psi, no doubt mid 400's is capable but engine is 100% std. It really needs about 20 psi to really wake it up but it is something im not willing to do without the customer standing next to it during tuning.

ah yep ser1 needs the z32 ecu trick, sorry should have read your post better sorry.

the stagea ecu is remappable with a type 4 nistune board andif tuned right passes all the epa tests.

http://www.crankshaftrebuilders.com.au/

interesting keep an eye out on the runners as i used a few (and tune a few) and they have all cracked around 5 and 6 after only a few track days. Even the 2 ca18 ones we used had porous welds around the trumpet bases. The last two had such warped bases they cracked when the customer installed it... We now machine each one and re weld the runner bases, they seem to be fine after that. PM WHEEZY about his....... i must agree about the ebay greddy copies we wont fit them anymore as they are generally shite.... we have also had a few that leak into the inlets.

its hardly rocket science but they are top operators. details below; Rotor Master Racing Innovation Address: Unit 9 38-44 Elizabeth St, Wetherill Park NSW 2164 Ph: 001 61 2 9604 4801 Fax: 001 61 2 9756 2362 E-Mail: [email protected]