STATUS

it all depends on the setup, this car gained poofteenths (maybe a couple of kw or so) going from the std throttle body to a Q45 at 330rwkw. In this particular setup the rear housing is the restriction not the tb. The throttle action is nicer on the q45 though and make it nicer to drive.... and in this case was the only change. i should add swap was done on the dyno so variables were minimised.

the neo uses a completely different plug, it will wire in but not plug in. There are a few options though like buying a field harness and wiring into that etc. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...38-DSCF0633.JPG http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...37-DSCF0630.JPG

forget the 0.86 2871's i have used a few and they are pretty average, require 20-22psi to make decent power over the smaller housings.. even then the extra top end is not worth the lag... Put simply we had a GT2835 ext gate kit (HKS) making 288rwkw, the GT2871R 0.86 was laggier and was 15-20rwkw shy on the top end aswell.... Best track day turbo for a SR20 is a GT2860RS with decent cams to extend the top end, a SR20 with GT2860RS should pull 220-235rwkw on a std bottom ended but cammed engine no worries at sensible boost.

they are plain junk, pretty but junk and the gias copies have poor recliner mechs. I have had to break the "you own copies" to a few customers now.... after getting in the cars and feeling not as comfortable as i usually would in a genuine seat. If you sit in one then the other it is like going from a sofa to a park bench the material is prone to pilling and the lumbar supports are porrly padded and wear out in months not years.... be warned they are shit. I have seen them for sale on this forum advertised as bride too.....

Not getting involved with whats better or what not but one thing i like about the carrillos when side by side to other rods ive found the equivalent carrillos were consistantly lighter..... the downside is the price

remmeber with a 26 if your turn the bearings the crank is toast (most of the time).... they bend like a slinky. Prevention is far better than cure. Run an extra litre in the sump and start saving for a build.

R33 with 3582r (i will check housing size 2moro for you) 18psi but with 264 cams. Fuel reg on a r33 is good for high 300rwkw so your reg is not the issue.

Ive had a 2 M800's come in lately running stock coils with various amplifiers making high 500rwkw's and one making 522rwkw with the motec cdi and they all tuned up the same (no spark issues), i did not wire the ecu's so am not 100% sure on the specifics without looking into it, but i cant see you running into any issues especially if your tuner knows his motec gear. i must admit it was nicer tuning the CDi's as they would ignite stupidly rich mixtures during setup etc and saved me time not having to change plugs Just for the excercise i did bit of a test and the Motec CDI could ignite mixtures all the way down to the limit of my wideband on 1.1mm gap using fine point race plugs.

Yep juggernaut has spelt it out the AU setup or the flexalite twins are about the only things that keep temps under control under any hard driving especially drifting (other than stock setup with a R33 fan), the davies craig and ICE fans are junk. The foam insulators you mentioned are also paramount when using thick coolers etc as the air finds it easier to bypass the rad core. The best / easiest setup for an SR20 is R33 clutch fan setup, the power drain is about 5kw more than thermos running and is absolutley fool proof.

^^^ there's the issue.... "the local guys"

exactly.... and the process is alot dearer hence my reluctance to bother with R33 remapping. i just recomend a EMU, PFC or LINK etc for R33. If you are dead set on a R33 REMAP then the two most reputable are DRDRIFT or Toshi.

16" in a shroud wont do jack all unfortunatley.... unless you just put around, any spirited driving sends temp gauge out of control.

to give each gate pipe a balanced flow....

it involves ALOT to fit they are not bolt in.

forget thermos, the best cooling solution is the std clutch fan. The massive amount of work done on this s13 was to revert back to the clutch fan.

def the opposite i've lost count of the dead engines (mostly RB and CA) caused by the direct use/misuse of a BEE-R limiter, i have never installed them and never will. as for the guy who started this thread, put the std limiter back in use and sell the BEE-r to some squid on ebay.

opposite of easy.... very much the opposite.

you dont need to buy anything ive installed about 20 sets over the years and sold nearly 100 sets (through autobarn).

Just did that to the S13. Cooler still to be cut and all a bit rough.... work in progress.

just make sure the idle afm voltage is the same as the values (voltage) in the Afm output map.... ie if it is idling @ 1.15volts the output map should have 1.15 volts in the squares at idle.

have you got anyway of looking at the map inside the microtech? swapping from a microtech to a vipec (or anything) is not going to fix your root issue as the ecu swap wont make any more power if the microtech is tuned properly (Granted a vipec/LINK is a better ecu though). If you do have the ability to view the maps feel free to take screen grabs of the timing curve and boost compensation curves and email them to me [email protected] it will soon be obvious if it is tune related. Another thing to check is cam timing, was it dialed in properley? or just installled at zero? ive had a few aftermarket cam gears be up to 12 degees out and then when the workshop does the install they guess the best cam setting without properly finding zero (3degrees advance on the intake and 3 retard on the exhaust seems to be a favourite) the cam timing is way out.....

new rail spacers, insert them between the fuel rail and the manifold.

yeah the greddy ones from greddy oceania are cheap atm too, they are on the clearance list... bugger maybe it was link and Nismo items...

edit: wrong thread

yep.