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Quick cut and paste; The oil drain from a turbo operates via gravity. That is, the pressure drop across the turbo bearing is nearly complete and it is only gravity that causes the oil to flow back to the sump. In fact, it cannot really be termed ‘oil’ as after it has passed through the turbo, the oil becomes an aerated foam – one reference suggests it looks like ‘dirty whipped cream’. It’s therefore important that: The drain line is much larger in diameter than the pressure feed line The connection to the sump is made above the oil level The drain pipe is kept as close to vertical as possible If the sump drain joins at a level below the oil, the much lower density of the aerated oil will cause it to sit on top of the sump oil, gradually backing-up to the turbo. Article taken from; http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2606/printArticle.html

its common for the china stuff to stop spinning at idle....

ah sorry yeah i thought you were after ARP's.... i will look at some TB45 and TB48 head studs for you as i remmebr them being longer... i have a few laying about from turbo dirt dweller builds. Do you have a solution for sealing the deck and plate? dont need to post as i also understand...just interested.

and the other most important issue is less heat soak from the radiator....which is why blitz / Arc did it in the first place

speak to willall (sa) or racepace (vic) as both have extensive experience with open deck rb26's. I may be interested in some spacer plates as we have the sleeving process fully sorted now. if your looking to sell some feel free to pm me.

Yeah with good results (two smaller ones on a GTR), plus they are cheaper than 400 locally from LINK international in qld (BMC distributor). I just looked at this months specials sheet and all three sizes are listed as being reduced ... timing

that probably the best explanation around, im probably guilty of bagging microtech but we actually tune ALOT of them and have very happy customers running them but there are underlying limitations that refrain me from selling / recomending them (for a few 100 more you can get an outstanding stand alone). In fact microtech are probably the quickest to tune but the process is very backwards and coarse Upgrading to another ecu usually yields good results in areas most microtech users / punters tend to 'live' with or 'think' is normal for aftermarket ecu's. I think the microtech reply to this post by a US microtech guys sums it all up..... http://microtechefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2207

is that fitting above the oil level?

ive got one in stock, its next to my flux capacitor, both are made from unobtainium.

or just repin the rb20 pfc....

i have the original dyno graphs from the TRUST car somewhere, but it is a bosch dyno graph.

i checked them both and they were 100% flat and true, we swap out the supplied clamps and the problem goes away.....

Yeah the hypergear v clamps are shit, get a decent clamp and it will be sweet.

hey nic dont detroy them, just use a jet drill in the 4 spray holes. It is common (duetshwerks etc) we do quite alot of them and the spray pattern is excellent, find some jet drills (done by hand) if not pm me and i will send you to someone who can do it for you, if not we do them 70ea exchange (cause we balance them up and adjust spray pattern, not just drill them ) for 740cc or 550cc. cheers trent

drop to sevens.

blame the tuner not the ecu.... ive seen a plugin M800 in an evo which was spot on.... the new evo 10 is a bit problematic atm as it loses ayc and abs, but im sure its only a matter of time b4 its fully sorted. Actually on that Dirt (off the top of your head) do you know if Vipec (link) has a evo 10 ecu sorted yet? (ABS EYC wise) If money and time was no object id love to get my hands on some PCS (Pectel Control Systems) gear....

lets not get silly as i have the pm's from you asking me if i could supply LINKS at a better rate than VIPEC... (my annoyance with vipec was early their dealer in victoria held no stock, didnt plan on holding stock and had no trade structure.... all this before i realised they were rebadged LINKS anyway) i dont fly any ecu flag as i dont have a vested interest in a particular company like you. i take each application and budget and reccomend to suit the customer. Obviously you or your tuner is more comfortable with the VIPEC than Motec. I just dont think its fair to pummel Vipec down everyones throat when at the end of the day its just another ECU.... abeit a very good one.

hey jase be sure to look into the LINK G4 extreme too as well as the VIPEc as they are the same thing, gives you a few more places to source from. The LINK / Vipec does'nt have anything over the M800 but, unlike the M800 where you need to enable options etc the LINK / VIPEC is mostly enabled out of the box. The M800 will always be better as an out out ecu but for most guys they will never use a 1/3 of its capabilities and unless the tuner is well versed in Motec tuning it can be extremely daunting and easy to end up with an ass tune.. Put simply if you pull a M800 and fit another ecu and the car goes better point the finger at the tuner, NOT the ecu. If money / time was'nt a consideration we would have M800's in our own cars but it is so i settled for LINK G4's. I found the best thing about these ecu's is the tune time vs result is extremely good, they require far less fiddling to get excellent results.

the R34 smic are better for about half a lap then they are just as crap as any other SMIC.... Even the ARC ones are not that flash for any serious performance. They all heat soak badly.

why should i waste time giving feedback to help develop their product.... i already have plenty of capable ecu's to choose from.

certainly isnt new... weve tuned a few liquid gas cars running a myriad of ecu's.. haltech, autronic etc... yes it is the way of the future but there are still limitations on injector size vs horsepower, some of the big horsepower stuff needed twin injectors per cylinder. What brand system or components were used on the supercharged 6litre? Our vz Sv6 we had for a few months had gas injection on it from new.... 2004.

Gtt pump is the same size as a walbro and a walbro is a direct fit if your game, we retrofit 040's or JZA80 pumps. The R33 uses a bosch / GTR size pump that is larger than the r34 GTT

it can be sorted, forget the BOV lovers and plumb back jabber. Are you using nistune? feel free to email me the map and i will have a look at the 'reversion" points and low end map scaling for starters. We dont run bovs on our drift cars as the throttle lag is hard to live with when on and off the throttle rapidly. secondly you can run a single Z32 post cooler as a last resort.... works fine. Metal Z32 housing are available off the shelf.

Have they fixed the crappy connectors which cause endless dramas.... and the adaptronic is way out of its league compared to the vipec / Link G4 but it is a great hobby ecu.

It should be fairly simple, does the car run fine? with the PFC?