STATUS

has it got a thermostat on the relocator? check your flow direction to on the lines.

I should have noted my reply is not aimed @ duncan either but more a explanation to everyone for my shit "ditto" comment page or so ago i promise to think a little next time .... lol

i did not want to start slandering other balancers as i have a family friend who works for one of the other balancer companies i figured i would just add my confirmation that ATI are the balancer of choice here @ status. We have used JUN balancers in the past (which are re-branded ROSS) and had no dramas, if you have your engine built here (STATUS) then it comes with an ATI, its my personal (not necessarily the ONLY choice) choice as i warrant the engines.... We have had dramas in the past with particular brands (not necessarily Ross) slipping or separating under extreme conditions ie drifting where an engine see's alot more abuse than drag racing... Much like everything the choice of a product is based mainly on personal experience followed of course by availability. At the end of the day 99% of people can get away with using pretty much any brand on their engine in any component. Pumps and pistons are a good example, i use alot of N1 pumps in generic builds and have NEVER had a failure, i have used Cheap pistons in a s15 slapper motor (built for a mate to sell his car... but ended up keeping it) that now see's regular track days (bi-monthy for 2years) and its running 20-odd psi on what i reckon are not much better than cast lumps of junk..... If you start to put your name to something you need to be able to 100% gaurantee to the best of your abilty that the product you are using will be up for the job, some builds it requires overkill, sometimes it requires arrogance or brand snobbery but it only takes one wrong engine part decision or recommendation to wreck ones reputation....

ditto.

interesting as we do a lot of jzx100's here. Got 2 in car park now

or both spent many years as an apprentice at NISSAN

Ive had issues with the kits as they are NOT kits... they are just a turbo and other parts are needed, so be prepared to spend quite a bit more to get it installed. A few SR turbos customers have been bringing in lately need actuator brackets fabbed up etc... in the end it was cheaper to buy the GCG KIT (which is actually a bolt on solution, you specify the car model and it arrives setup) which had the correct actuator bracket and housings clocked to the right postion.

i get these things in all the time and 9 times out of ten they are no better than stock.... in fact i just had a 4dr r32 in that would not crack over 15psi without closing the plugs down to .5mm.... it was using the AU setup. Best bet is new COPs or aftermarket COPS.

HAHA any nissan part 5mins...... the factory and warehouse is round the corner

was tuned after the plenum? also check map sensor source location.

nah the std turbo power delivery of these cars (R33 and R34) always looks like that regardless of ecu / tune due to the scale (i have it scaled for the higher power) and lack of dampening from heavy rollers same car on a roller will have a sweet curve. 190rwkw at 11psi is not to bad though, i tried 13psi but as posted earlier more boost only required disproportionate amounts of timing to be removed... plus i like to run the least boost to make power. I have found many of the hypergear graphs show stratospheric boost levels (22-25psi) and i really like to cap boost to 18-19psi on std engines to give them a long healthy life unless specifically told to run more.

Final high flow vs 2nd highflow. and original turbo vs final highflow.

Nah clutch is good as curve is sweet, i reckon it is hanging on by a thread though. Loss of top end would be the std airbox arrangement as any more boost gives no real gain in top end. I tested the same thing on other cars and removal of the lid reveals 10-13rwkw str8 up. okay here is stock turbo tuned vs g1 highflow. This car did not like making over 190rwkw on the stock turbo usually we would see around 212rwkw.... again pod would fix this. Boost on all runs is relatively low as it does not like anymore... ie increased boost required far too much timing to be pulled which again leads back to inlet and the airbox. Geraus car is a good comparo as it runs a pod... That said daniel and i discussed this and i dont think another 10rwkw is worth the cop issues on this car from having a pod.

Martin your a legend... i did not know that. We use quite a bit of the the Total seal gear and i reckon the 300zx stuff i got for the RB26 trust pistons probably came through you via precision I'm so busy at the shop i usually get the machinist just to add the components to the machining bill to save me chasing it up but of course i pay a premium for my lazyness..... I will drop you an email to save boring you on the phone and see if you can supply me in the future..

I dream about your Full Race manifold......

ha sweet, just had a panic when i saw that chart

True Dat.

may consider a group buy if there is enough demand as i have two carbon ORC twins here that need kits.

edited.

will do first thing 2moro.

hey Hamish just looked at the graphs, and there are two boost settings? when we fixed the boost leaks and ran it on mine it was running 20 psi and made 280 or 284rwkw on pulp but in your graph on pulp it is running only 15-16psi.... What boost should it be running? I reckon now without the split hose and 20+ psi the old peak of 311rwkw will now be a walk in the park.

back fire during warm up is due to it being lean.

somewhere.

the area under the graph of the 2530 vs the 2540 proves the loss in bottom end is not worth the extra top end.

follow your bottom rad hose back to the engine, the thermostat is there. bleeder is front right side of plenum.