STATUS

i ended up getting some 300zx rings from precision or Nason here in melb for our RB26 86.5mm Greddy pistons as no-one had any idea.

thats like pulling a pfc for a microtech.... Cosworth JE, CP MAHLE ARIAS The above is my preference order, the MAHLE are realy nice piston (great for race motors) and we have used a few sets with excellent results but they cant be expected to last as long in a street engine as a longer skirted piston, just something to think of. The cosworth (most jap brands like TRUST, JUN etc use cosworth) are my top choice, good comprimise between weight and strength have nice crowns and anti detonational / scuff bands above the top ring land, Can handle just about any accidental abuse you throw at them.... The JE's are strong as... and my first choice for street with weekend circuit work as they are almost impossible to damage and will handle a few overheats and bad batches of fuel if the situation arises. The arias pistons are fairly simple piston, pretty average crown (especially SR) but they are cheap and are used in all my entry level budget builds. At the end of the day piston choice is often the builders choice and is based on what they have the most experience with.... unfortunatley most engine build kits sold online are pieced together with whats got the biggest profit margin or whats easiest to source not really what is the best for the aplication.

To be honest paul the vct is spot on and ANY change on the std turbo sends you backwards and as for timing it would be no more than any other tune an engine will only take so much regarless of turbo size.... Roy and Beer Baron are on the same path i would take HKS gt2530, 4.36 diff, Forward facing plenum (if big budget GTR ITB's) and GTR FMIC.

The r34 smic is crap and heats soaks about 3 pulls (half a lap) after a r33 one, been there and tested them.... same diff when going from s13 to s15 smic...

yep just add 1.2mm oil restrictor and maybe a head gasket (std nissan HG is pretty damn good though)

stick with a genuine nissan thermostat, i have had nearly 10 dud tridon ones supplied by customers even after trying to convince them otherwise. Now i refuse to fit anything other than genuine. Check your clutch fan as it sounds like the clutch is giving out.

you may get pump noise through your amp now. We usually bypass the fuel pump control / resistor in most cars.

King bearing are my choice atm, used to use acl's a few years back... the kings are far more crank friendly.

ash let me know exactly what your after (boost power torque etc... and i will sit down and put all of them on the same graph. prob sat night though. PS. Im not sure if everyone has seen daniels R34 but it is one sweet sweet ride and working on it is never a chore as it seems to get cleaner and newer every time i see it definatly a customers car i would like to add to my garage.

get the d-jetro pfc.

increase the cut frequency, slow long cuts are bad fast rapid cuts are better with the bee r if you HAVE to use it.

agreed im seeing so many dodgy high flows lately from so called small boutique turbo shops.

Car is pretty much spot on for a untuned r32 GTR. The boost leak may explain it. Spray aerostart around the plenum and tb's if the idle picks up you have a leak (may not show up, as it may be a pressure only leak). Nistune on your mods should see 215-230rwkw, we do them all the time. Must be a car issue.

far better ecu than the microtech but stil not all that great, trade it in for a v500 if you want a wolf.

got some dyno graphs of a 330rwkw rb25det (std int) with q45 and rb25 throttle body diff and its fck all at that power. One thing is the progressive throttle on the q45 is sweet.

i got a few spare here if you get stuck. DO NOT use only gasket goo.... engine failure is only a gallery blockage away...

depends for sure, a d-jetro and LINK will cost you the same ($1650 or $2k tuned) and there is no differrence between the two power making wise. Power wise your bottom end is gonna give out before the turbo.... 1000cc sards are good for about 795hp 1600's are good for over 1000hp... it really depends on the T88 trim (34 or 38 and 18 or 22cm rears). I always thought T88 were too big until i went for a spin in the Signal r34..... it proved setup and experience is mare more important than anything else.

not on your setup. Unless your after ease of servicing and a pretty bay.

if your close (non westy) i can set it up with a map to get you where you need to go. R34's come up real sweet with the nistune stuff.

The guy (he is THE GTR tuner) who does your dynoing does the same we do and simulate the small extra load, . That way they pull the same whether it be 4wd or 2wd.

Forget the reg. Do it properly.

I should have probably added control the supercharger load points in 3d therefore it now works much like a progresive nitrous setup (gear based) which tames it down in 1st and winds it up for the rest. Much like a t88 powered car never hits target boost in first due to the fact it cant load the car enough to produce the exhaust gas. On drag radials you could alter this load setting to allow more aggressive engagement. Car is used for daily driving, drags and has done a few days at sandown. It is actually a very good alrounder.

got one you can borrow if you need it, hows the rex coming along?

i got a bucket of dead walbros... want some spares.....

its just a matter of switching a few pins. I do it for customers all the time. Use a D-jetro for best results.