STATUS

buying from the wrong place simple as that... the chinese stuff has HUGE markup.

VL turbo.... has both banjo lines (visible pic 3). Manufactured by Garret branded Nissan just like a plethora of other factory fitted turbos.

when i say solvent i mean not the acid bath at your local machine shop we use a strong carb cleaning solvent if we dont have access to the hot steam bath (same thing they clean cynlinder heads with) I suppose its best to point out simply to those who want to clean the TB's that you use something that your sure wont dissovle / attack rubber or plastic.... if unsure stick to carby clean (can version) and a tooth brush.

if your smart you can do it in a non detrimental way, obviuosly you dont want to induce knock at full load, full boost and so forth but it is simple enough to do it safely at the right time.

plugging it in and trying will not harm anything provided you dont go boosting here there everywhere but i advise against it just in case some nuffy has screwed the timing side of things up...

probably as your tuner does not know what it does....... if you read the second part of my post and carry out the simple test you will soon see why rb25's with forward facing plenums benefit from a swirlpot.

yup done a few rb20's and rb25's for SAU's. Wheezy is one of them. Jaycar or MSD for the vct switching point activator. Seriously though we now just fit a LINK G4 plugin (rebaged here as vipec)

the rear housing is the theing im chasing most, i want ext gate and cant seem to find the right housing.... im pretty much buying them to get the serial numbers if not i will get MTQ to track down the holset numbers from the samples i also have a feeling they are chinese covers or cores but im only after the ex housings really... the rest is a bonus .

they should be cleaned in a hot spray bath not in solvent... just a tip.

agreed.

looking to bring in a hx-35 and hx-40 from gs racing (uk ebay) as it seems the easiest place to get them new in the sizes i want i have dial in (stock computer and pricing) to a huge turbo supplier (mtq) here in aus and i did my head in looking for the right spec and when i did they are about 2000 dollars anyway. Im not sure what rep this GS racing has but i will soon find out. Not a fan of thier black caover up paint jobs but anyhoo http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GSRACING-GSR-HX40-70...A1%7C240%3A1318

im about to test some camtech cams over the next few weeks, ive heard great feedback and im sure they are just profiled off popular grinds anyway...... I tried a few sets of crow SR cams awhile back and i wont go there again.... disaster. as for valve springs for your rb or sr stay away from the ones you listed...... they soften up way to quick. Ive been burnt a few times now and since switching back to Ferrea / Brian Crower and the jap gear ive had ZERO issues. We used to use a lot of the performance springs in the v8's we built (big solid rollers) and even then they required swapping out more often than the us-of-a stuff. Then again thier the cheapest and most shops make good coin outta them.... Just out of interest from those who are using them have they had the springs tested after they were removed? i have some kelford ones here for a 26 im about to have tested (done one full season) it will be interesting to see how they fared.

few pics: I was very impressed with ATI's 7" balancer, cant wait to get it all fitted up. rest of the pics are pretty general, pic of the crank and its grub screws (NEVER leave the factory alloy plugs in), Arp main and head bolts, H-beam rods etc CBF'd assy it yesterday as ive got so many motors on the go in the shop....i went to the melbourne comedy festival and saw Arj Barker and Tim Minchin instead

mis-type on my behalf, 1mm overs only..... i was thinking .5mm over on the pistons but typing in the valve specs.... by the time i went bak in i could not edit it. the Blitz stuff is not available in split pulse. Cams are only babies atm 264 with 9.7mm lift, gonna do some testing on the camtech stuff.

Any car that comes with a RB series engine does not need the sway bar mod.

yeah that looks like something got swallowed.

EGT's and good old plug reading. I've taken bit of a plunge here with the nismo item based on some conversations with some of my jap contacts, i would love to do some back to back tests with the hypertune item and the greddy version against the Nismo.....

yeah she will get the good one, we will probably start to do alot more grip setup as we are planning to hold our own track days (grip/drift) for our customers next few months. With the folding of DA we are finding more and more people wanting mixed days.

^^ US is leading the way anyway... the best tuning solutions seem to come from there ATM... the only exception is the haltech piggy back system but i still prefer the idea of flash based us based sytems.... similar to vcm suite etc... im sure once the factory ecu is FULLY unlocked it will be force to be reckoned with.

yes the greddy and D1 systems are extremeley simple but they are effective and like you i dont think modifying the coolant/vacuum rail on the manifold is warranted. What most people need is a simple fix i think the whole setup owes us $100 i can tell you that if you fit a forward facing plenum it is a must. It was also mandatory on our car as we run only two coolant hoses on the whole engine upper and lower rad hoses and bleeding the system was nearly impossible (rad is quite low too). (Fit a clear hose to your engine and watch it on the dyno) you will be suprised after some heavy work the shortcommings of the std setup.

hmm last time i looked a full xforce system was a les than half that.... its real average stuff.

yeah inline in the 12v wire of each injector.

looks stock..

should not be a problem like youve said, we have a few pushing mid 200's all with no issues. I even have a 34 with over 100hp of nos being injected.

R34 NA auto before 88rwkw after 150rwkw just added blue bottle. dyno graph on monday.